1990 Convertible
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1990 Convertible
I havean old HS buddy that wants to sell his 1990 RX7 convertible. He has had it for as long as I can remember (I think he bought it new) but anyway, it has sat for the past 5 years. He put a new motor in it about 50K miles ago but then the tranny (automatic) went out right after getting it serviced at a jiffy lube type store. It stopped working all together - not just slipping. Anyway, the car has sat idle without being started for 5 years. He had it in great condition prior to that. Car has about 150K overall miles.
I can have the car for $500 if I want it. I have owned a first generation RX7 and now own a RX8 so i thought about buying it for a winter project.
My question is first, is a non-running convertible worth $500 and second, I assume I will ahve ot have the tranny rebuilt but what else could have caused that issue and if I need it rebuilt, how much shoudl I be looking at for that job? Also, what kind of damage (other than freezing up from no anti-freeze) would a rotary sitting idle for 5 years be expected and what would be the proper start up procedure for somethign liek that?
Thanks
Bob
I can have the car for $500 if I want it. I have owned a first generation RX7 and now own a RX8 so i thought about buying it for a winter project.
My question is first, is a non-running convertible worth $500 and second, I assume I will ahve ot have the tranny rebuilt but what else could have caused that issue and if I need it rebuilt, how much shoudl I be looking at for that job? Also, what kind of damage (other than freezing up from no anti-freeze) would a rotary sitting idle for 5 years be expected and what would be the proper start up procedure for somethign liek that?
Thanks
Bob
#2
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Welcome to the forum.
Pull the plugs & squirt some oil in the plug holes.
Pull the inboard fuse on the left strut tower (to shut off the fuel & spark)
Give it I jump & see if it cranks.
Listen carefully for even compression puffs out the plug holes.
Your biggest problem is likely bad, oxydized, varnished fuel.
There is an access panel to the fuel pump under the left rear carpet.
Pull the pump & check the strainer & tank bottom.
Then stick a 5-speed manual tranny in it for less that the cost of fixing the auto.
I have a set of factory service manuals at the link in my sig.
Download & print whatever you need.
Pull the plugs & squirt some oil in the plug holes.
Pull the inboard fuse on the left strut tower (to shut off the fuel & spark)
Give it I jump & see if it cranks.
Listen carefully for even compression puffs out the plug holes.
Your biggest problem is likely bad, oxydized, varnished fuel.
There is an access panel to the fuel pump under the left rear carpet.
Pull the pump & check the strainer & tank bottom.
Then stick a 5-speed manual tranny in it for less that the cost of fixing the auto.
I have a set of factory service manuals at the link in my sig.
Download & print whatever you need.
Last edited by SureShot; 08-16-06 at 03:29 PM.
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do you think it would be worth the $500 to chance it? I mean I woudl think I could part it out and get my money back if themotor and tranny are shot. He said the engine was strong when the tranny went out. Liek I said, he is a freind from HS, don'tthink he would shot me a line about the motor. But of course, it has sat idle for 5 years.
I agree with the fuel situation - have ran into that many times before
I agree with the fuel situation - have ran into that many times before
#5
Rotaries confuse me
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https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=567456
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hlight=%2Avert
There's quick references to the money that can be made from parting it out if it doesn't work out for you.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hlight=%2Avert
There's quick references to the money that can be made from parting it out if it doesn't work out for you.
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Originally Posted by My5ABaby
Yeah, non-running, it's worth it if the body is straight.
If you do get the engine running, put in a manual tranny. The automatic tranny's suck and aren't worth having in there, much less rebuilding.
BTW, where in TN are you located?
If you do get the engine running, put in a manual tranny. The automatic tranny's suck and aren't worth having in there, much less rebuilding.
BTW, where in TN are you located?
Well I bought the car. The body is straight, no rust, everything is there, motor looks clean, still has antifreeze in reservoir (you can tell it wasn't just put there either) so hopefully with a little work it will fire off after I drain and replace all the fluids, etc. The BBS wheels are in excellent shape nd still have all the caps as well. Still has a good top, top boot, car cover and front bra as well as nothing chopped up around the radio, etc. Will need some TLC on the leather seats and some of the clear is peeling ont eh paint but overall for 500 dollars I think it is worth it.
I'll get it home this weekend and get started. hopefully I will be successful
Bob
Last edited by Hondagoldwingrider; 08-17-06 at 12:52 PM.
#7
Rotaries confuse me
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Originally Posted by Hondagoldwingrider
I am in Fayetteville - right on the Alabama/Tennessee line.
Well I bought the car. The body is straight, no rust, everything is there, motor looks clean, still has antifreeze in reservoir (you can tell it wasn't just put there either) so hopefully with a little work it will fire off after I drain and replace all the fluids, etc. The BBS wheels are in excellent shape nd still have all the caps as well. Still has a good top, top boot, car cover and front bra as well as nothing chopped up around the radio, etc. Will need some TLC on the leather seats and some of the clear is peeling ont eh paint but overall for 500 dollars I think it is worth it.
I'll get it home this weekend and get started. hopefully I will be successful
Bob
Well I bought the car. The body is straight, no rust, everything is there, motor looks clean, still has antifreeze in reservoir (you can tell it wasn't just put there either) so hopefully with a little work it will fire off after I drain and replace all the fluids, etc. The BBS wheels are in excellent shape nd still have all the caps as well. Still has a good top, top boot, car cover and front bra as well as nothing chopped up around the radio, etc. Will need some TLC on the leather seats and some of the clear is peeling ont eh paint but overall for 500 dollars I think it is worth it.
I'll get it home this weekend and get started. hopefully I will be successful
Bob
Also, check out the SE section of the forum to get local information.
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Update
Got the car home last Friday evening - drove it a couple of miles tonite.
The auto tranny doesn't shift exactly like it shoudl but ti pulls in all gears, etc. Motor doesn't smoke - sounds good, etc. I installed a new fuel pump and a transmission modulator valve to get it going. Car still needs some work but at least it is a running/driving car now.
If I decide I want to get rid of it now, what would be the value of a running/driving (but still needing work) rust free convertible?
Thanks
Bob
The auto tranny doesn't shift exactly like it shoudl but ti pulls in all gears, etc. Motor doesn't smoke - sounds good, etc. I installed a new fuel pump and a transmission modulator valve to get it going. Car still needs some work but at least it is a running/driving car now.
If I decide I want to get rid of it now, what would be the value of a running/driving (but still needing work) rust free convertible?
Thanks
Bob
#9
putting it down daily
wow- congrats on the score-
an auto trans 'vert in running condition similar to what you describe should fetch ~ 1800-2k, at least in these parts (southeast- FL to be exact)
an auto trans 'vert in running condition similar to what you describe should fetch ~ 1800-2k, at least in these parts (southeast- FL to be exact)
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Originally Posted by My5ABaby
Yeah, non-running, it's worth it if the body is straight.
If you do get the engine running, put in a manual tranny. The automatic tranny's suck and aren't worth having in there, much less rebuilding.
BTW, where in TN are you located?
If you do get the engine running, put in a manual tranny. The automatic tranny's suck and aren't worth having in there, much less rebuilding.
BTW, where in TN are you located?
If you do decide on a manual tranny. Put the turbo tranny. You would have to do some mods like the starter, driveline, clutch assembly, but I think it's well worth it. My N/A tranny sucks. You would have to replace some of these items anyway converting.
#11
Rotaries confuse me
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Originally Posted by Hondagoldwingrider
Got the car home last Friday evening - drove it a couple of miles tonite.
The auto tranny doesn't shift exactly like it shoudl but ti pulls in all gears, etc. Motor doesn't smoke - sounds good, etc. I installed a new fuel pump and a transmission modulator valve to get it going. Car still needs some work but at least it is a running/driving car now.
If I decide I want to get rid of it now, what would be the value of a running/driving (but still needing work) rust free convertible?
Thanks
Bob
The auto tranny doesn't shift exactly like it shoudl but ti pulls in all gears, etc. Motor doesn't smoke - sounds good, etc. I installed a new fuel pump and a transmission modulator valve to get it going. Car still needs some work but at least it is a running/driving car now.
If I decide I want to get rid of it now, what would be the value of a running/driving (but still needing work) rust free convertible?
Thanks
Bob
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