infernoman

Hey everyone I've just swapped in my t2 shortblock got all of the wiring hooked up and found some problems. I am using the t2 harness which is already modified, t2 electronics na fuel pump and no boost pressure sensor at the moment. All emissions are removed except the bac and the throttle body is modded and ported aswell. No coolant going through. I've ran into a couple of problems with the bac buzzing or ticking when the key is at the on position. Also when trying to start the car it seems like it isn't getting fuel but the fuel pump has pressure as I took off the line and ended up getting some in the eye. I have spark but it doesn't seem like there is fuel either at the injectors and definately not the engine. When cranking with plugs out no fuel. Any ideas?

infernoman

Engine also has full compression no leaks anywhere that I can see but just no fuel at the plugs, no flooding no the doesnt car want to start just turns over. haven't checked the injector rail yet, and am quite positive the injectors are wired properly, if I have to take the uim off again I'm going to check over it again. Aswell as pressure at the rail

funkjaw

iTrader: (3)

Did you try wiring the fuel pump straight to battery to force it on?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Is the newer engine a JDM or USDM?

infernoman

USDM I beleive and fuel pump is on and there is pressure in the lines at the pump but it seems like there is no fuel getting into the housings

satch

iTrader: (1)

The reason for asking is the fuel lines are connected in an opposite manner when a JDM swap is performed. The best place to check for fuel flow is on the return line (line closest to the firewall on a USDM version which would be the supply/feed line for a JDM). You can jumper the fuel check connector and w/key to on the fuel pump engages as it won't prime w/just the key to on.

jerd_hambone

Did you check the fuel filters? If you are getting fuel from the pump, next step is the filters. Then the injectors.

HAILERS2

Like the man said, swap the fuel lines at the engine and try again. You've got the pressure and return lines *** backwards most likely. Easy fix. COMMON problem.

infernoman

I'll do that tonight and check it out thanks for the help I'll get back to you tomorrow with the results

infernoman

Took a bit longer than expected to get everything swapped over the exhaust is on now and fuel pump is in. Im having problem with hard starts and I have no gauges no temp no oil pressure and no rpm haven't taken it for a drive yet but another member of the club did that for me today. He also adjusted my new throttle cable, and managed to get it to idle, but it's having a really hard time starting hot or cold. He suggested it may be the ecu? Any ideas?

satch

iTrader: (1)

You might want to check the compression of the engine. As far as the ECU goes JDM engines won't run well w/any ECU as they are kind of finicky. You'll have to do a search for this or wait til someone w/knowledge of this offers their opinion.

HOZZMANRX7

iTrader: (43)

Actually I droped a JSpec S5 TII engine straight into my S5 Vert and it ran just fine with the ASpec TII ECU and ASpec everything else. Ran even (306whp) better with the HalTech.

infernoman

I'm going to check compression again. But my problem is my gauges at the moment. I'm going to try and put new plugs in and see if that helps with the hard start, and hopefully tomorrow when I go back to the shop, the car will still idle

satch

iTrader: (1)

The Meter fuse controls all gauges except for the speedometer.

infernoman

As of now I have no oil pressure gauge rpm and temp gauges aswell. Along with the hard start

infernoman

Also I have gauges when the n/a ecu is plugged in and before I did the swap aswell.

dwb87

iTrader: (22)

Did anyone else catch that?

You need a boost sensor. (N318) - And I guess you're using a TII fuel pump now?

infernoman

My apologies boost sensor is installed now aswell as an aftermarket 255lph pump one thing I didn't catch when re posting about the new problem

satch

iTrader: (1)

And which harness's did you change in doing the swap?

infernoman

Using the t2 harness I rewired for the power steering already so it doesn't retard one of the signals to ecu

satch

iTrader: (1)

You need to elaborate more. Did you change the Emission harness from NA to the turbo version?

infernoman

Sorry yes just the em harness is changed.

satch

iTrader: (1)

There are two Orange connectors above and to the right of the ECU and they are appropriately named FEM-01 and FEM-02. The NA setup uses FEM-02 for the oil pressure while the turbo uses FEM-01 so you have yet to make the changes necessary required in this swap. Use the following link and pay attention to HAILERS' comments about how to fix your problems and focus on post #7 onward. It will explain as well as how your Boost Sensor is probably not wired properly.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hlight=tps+rod

infernoman

alright im still a bit confused about reading all of these diagrams i have an idea of how it works but i know that i have the BrR and BrB wires of the x-15 connector are cut and taped off. and i know the Y/w of x-15 has to be connected to the Y/b in the front half of x-16 correct? i do not have an auxillary fan. so that would be the x-15 done disregarding the temp for now.on the x-16 connector i have the W wire going to GB cut from em side and taped off. and this is where i would cut the LgB from the x-16 and connect it to the y/w of the x-15 em harness for the temp sensor? do i really need the knock sensor and next question is oil pressure and rpm? i still do not have rpm. and i checked the meter fuse aswell i have voltage and temp reads max and im not sure about speedo yet.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Correct.

Many believe the Knock Sensor is not needed, if I remember correctly.