satch

iTrader: (1)

Disconnect the Yellow /Red wire from the oil pressure sender (one wire plug connected to the sender) and w/key to on ground it long enough with respect to time to see if the gauge needle rises to the top. This is done to verify that the gauge works and that you have the wires connected properly that are associated w/the oil pressure gauge. The wire is to be grounded just to check for movement at the gauge needle and after confirming that it either moves or doesn't move then immediately unground the Y/R wire.

infernoman

alright well this is the third start today and each seems to be getting easier each time. my next question though is my rpm any ideas on that one?

satch

iTrader: (1)

The tach receives its signal from the trailing coil so verify that it is working properly. You could test for spark on the coil or you could start the car and disconnect the two wire plug from the leading coil and if the car dies out then it's likely that the trailing is not working thus if the car continues to run then the trailing must be working. Did the tach work properly before the swap?

infernoman

yes the tach did work properly before the swap and ill try that now and see if the car dies out

infernoman

car dies when the two wire plug is removed from the leading. but i tried switching to a new coil and didnt have any luck with that either. new spark plugs are in and temp gauge is working now, i just need to find my oil pressure sensor wire, and then get my rpm working.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The sender is located under the oil filler neck/spout.

The trailing coil should have two wires that have battery voltage w/key to on and these would be the Black/Yellow wires. Are you also sure that the plug wires are connected to the correct rotor housings? Back at the coil, the Blue/Red wire should read less than 2 volts w/key to on and idilng also, the Blue/Yellow wire reads 0 volts w/key to on and .8 volts while idling, and the Brown/Yellow wire reads 4.4 volts w/key to on and 2.2 volts idling.

infernoman

Alright trailing coil didnt have a proper grounding point to the frame so it couldnt get a signal. now onto the electrical gremlins bear with me here please lol. Yesterday after the trailing coil was fixed. Got the car out for the first drive and ended up blowing a coolant line from the back of the water pump. So got that fixed and brought it back to the shop. hooked up my blower motor and mounted it properly and the car started fine. turned it off and proceeded to mount my boost gauge properly so i didnt have a vacuum line running randomly through the car. turn the key to on position and it starts honking. one continuous honk. i also have no radio the rear defrost is lit up, my boost controller has changed colours to red instead of blue?? and while trying to start the car the horn honks almost like the engine trying to start. car will not start now and seems to turn over very slowly

satch

iTrader: (1)

Concerning the horn problem does your car have the factory alarm?

infernoman

I beleive so. And update now I can get the engine to turn over unplugged the horns but it still won't fire. And also before I started doing the wiring the car was running fine with NO horn. I haven't changed any wires since yesterday just put in the blower. The reason I noticed is because I scared the crap out of myself and the car turned over while I hit it. Now I have no horn unless key is on an then it's continuous

satch

iTrader: (1)

What blower are you talking about? The blower fan for the Heater/AC? You might have flooded the car or you blew a fuse or two. Check the Engine fuse, and both EGI fuses (INJ and COMP).

EDIT: Pull the Meter fuse and hook the horn(s) back up and turn the key to on and see if the horns sound out.

infernoman

Yeah the blower motor for the ac/heater and the 2 egi fuses aren't blown.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Make sure the 15 amp Engine fuse is good plus pull the Meter fuse to see if it affects the horn. Meter fuse powers the alarm.

infernoman

Pulled the meter fuse earlier just incase and the horn still sounded. I'm not at the shop at the moment but I'll be out tomorrow and pull the engine fuse see if it is blown or not.

infernoman

Is there anything else I should look into when I go back tomorrow if you aren't online?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Also pull the Room fuse at it is the second fuse that powers the alarm and the alarm is the only logical cause for the horn to sound off as it is currently doing.

The horn relay, located in the CPU, has three wires. One supplies constant voltage from the Stop fuse, another wire runs to the horns, and the third wire runs to the horn button in the steering wheel and this wire splits off and runs to the alarm control unit. For the horn relay to activate the horn, all it needs is a ground on the Green/Orange wire. Since the relay has constant voltage the horn button cannot be stuck or the horn would sound out w/o a key to on. The G/O wire cannot be shorted out because that would also sound the horn w/no key. So the only logical explanation is the alarm unit is resplonsible for some reason.

infernoman

Alright I'll check more into it tomorrow, the part I am confused about is. I have no horn when the key is off even if I press it, turn the key to on and the horn sounds continuously. It's only happening when the key is to the on position

satch

iTrader: (1)

You might want to check the G/W wire at the largest plug to the CPU. This wire should have constant power from the Stop fuse so no key is necessary. I don't have a factory alarm so that leaves me w/the dual horn setup, but it appears that the cars w/factory alarm have an additional horn. The normal dual horns have a G/R wire running to them, but the additional horn should have Black/Red wire running to it. Does your car have this additional horn?

At the largest CPU plug lies a Green/Orange wire. If the G/W wire has constant power (no key) and you ground the G/O wire then the horn should sound off w/no key. Try this. If it doesn't then there is a problem w/the horn relay in the CPU.

infernoman

And earlier the horn worked but it also turned over my starter.

satch

iTrader: (1)

So when you pressed the horn button it would cause the starter to turn over? If this happened did it occur w/no key or the key to on?

infernoman

Yes the horn also turned the car over w/ no key. But it only occurred the one time before trying to start the car and it continuously honking. Unplugged the horn and got it to turn over and has spark, but won't fire. And now the horn also stopped working w/ no key.

infernoman

Is it possible that because the BrR and BrB of the x-15 are not connected to the alternator not supplying a sufficient enough ground to the CPU? Or the other electronics that it supplies it too?

satch

iTrader: (1)

The Alternator relay is just for turning the idiot lights on w/key to on and for signaling that a possible problem w/the alternator is occuring. If your idiot lights come on w/key to on then the relay and its wiring are okay, besides it doesn't really have anything to do w/your off and on problems. The ground wire you mention is not for the CPU so it's not a player either. The logical explanation for some of the trouble relates to the alarm unit.

Does the horn now work w/key to on. If not then I previously described how to diagnose the problem.

infernoman

reconnected the horn and it is stuck onw/ key to on. there is also a beeping noise coming from beside the fuse panel inside the car w/ key to off. also my car does have this additional horn so i do have the factory alarm. im at the shop now and am going to check voltages and get back to you then.

satch

iTrader: (1)

If the door is open and either the key is in the ignition or headlights are on then there should be a beeping sound to remind you of the situation. And as far as the horns are concerned, which are sounding off? All three of them or just the dual horns?

infernoman

alright tested the wires constant on g/w and its there also grounded the g/o and the horn sound w/ no key. and i have a horn again w/ no key. also the cpu is beeping to clear that up just ever so slightly you cant hear it unless your right up next to it. and it stops when you unplug the largest plug from the cpu. i remember what the door dinger sounds like its quite a bit louder. and all three of the horns are going off