satch

iTrader: (1)

That's good news but the horn being cut off when the Engine fuse is pulled is very puzzling.

At the Circuit Opening Relay located under the dash and to the right of the steering column is Yellow and Black and has 5 wires. W/key to start the top left wire (Black/White should have close to battery voltage). When this occurs the Blue wire ( upper right position) that powers the fuel pump also has voltage. You could also disconnect the return hose, place in a jug, jumper the fuel check connector and w/key to on the fuel should pour into the jug.

infernoman

Well considering how bad my tank was now my fuel pump is dead aswell. I'm going to make a fuel cell for the spare tire well. And see about using an inline pump. As for the electronics problem I guess I'll fix the pump and try and get it running beforehand.

infernoman

Well now I've got the inline pump hooked up and still no start all because I had to bring the vacuum in right beside the wire harness -_- now I am stuck with a $5000 paperweight until the wiring is replaced because I really don't want to take the time to figure this out I'll just do it right. Will the turbo car harness work with an n/a dash or do I need to find a new dash aswell if I switch all of the wiring to turbo

satch

iTrader: (1)

You can use the NA front harness w/the turbo emission harness but there would be a few changes to compensate for the differences. The front harness you have though is likely where the electrical problems you have are coming from. The CPU and fuse box etc.

infernoman

Yeah that's what I'm figuring aswell I have an extra car worth of wiring that's sprawled out on the floor right now tracking through wires that could've crossed. I'm going to try and get a new n/a front harness hopefully brand new. But I'm not too sure where to start looking for that

infernoman

well now ive gotten my fuel pump working again :S:S and gotten the car to run. but the horn is still stuck on and my coolant lines seemed like they were pressurizing too fast. so ive unhooked the horn for now and am looking for a new harness

infernoman

just need a bit more info and i think ive got it. ive got the car started today with no dash in it. the horn is stuck going off still so i just unplugged it. i figured out that my car needed a new rad cap so i did that and as i was trying to flush the car i had the rpm probably around 2500-3000 my buddy who was sitting outside of the car adding collant urged me to shut off the car as the turbo was red hot, any ideas?

infernoman

I didn't have any problems before the car wouldnt start and the horn started going off this is also a rebuilt engine with less than 10k on it. Any help would be greatly appreciated I don't know what to do anymore and the car is just sitting around the shop ripped apart I hate to see my 7 like that

satch

iTrader: (1)

Exactly what help are you looking for besides the horn issue? As far as the horn is concerned, there is likely a problem w/the CPU board related to the horn or an issue w/the interior fuse box. The idea that you can turn off the horn by pulling the Engine fuse makes no sense thus you need to find out what it is about the Engine fuse that it's wired in such a manner as to affect the horn w/the key to on. Also, unless the horn has a ground wire it cannot sound off so you need to find out how that ground occurs w/key to on (where does this magical ground come from). You also need to make sure that the only interior fuse that when pulled shuts off the horn besides the Engine fuse if any.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Look at the largest plug at the CPU. Looking into the back of this plug, the plug has two rows. Focus on the top row and the three wires starting at the far left position. These wires should read from left to right (top row) Green/Red, Green/Orange, Green/White. Are these wires properly orientated in such a manner?