1988 N/A engine problem
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1988 N/A engine problem
Recently I had the engine rebuild and have several problems. I reamed the cats out before the engine was rebuilt because I thought they might be the problem with the engine. Also, it's been street ported. I have a Borla exhaust and a K & N filter. All the emission equipment has been removed.
1. The engine won't idle when cold. It barely idles when warn. When warn, if I turn on the headlights or the A/C it dies. We put aluminum plates over the emissions openings and I re-sealed them. At one poit, about 300 miles I over pressured the oil sump and popped up the dip stick. Just wondering if that could have caused a problem.
2. The 5th and 6th ports won't open. Does anyone know how I can make them electrically actuated. I don't really want to wire them open. I do have a header I would like to put on.
1. The engine won't idle when cold. It barely idles when warn. When warn, if I turn on the headlights or the A/C it dies. We put aluminum plates over the emissions openings and I re-sealed them. At one poit, about 300 miles I over pressured the oil sump and popped up the dip stick. Just wondering if that could have caused a problem.
2. The 5th and 6th ports won't open. Does anyone know how I can make them electrically actuated. I don't really want to wire them open. I do have a header I would like to put on.
#2
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If rebuilt with used rotor housings it's not going to idle good for a while...If you removed the BAC valve along with the emissions it's going to idle even worse...try turning the idle adjust screw (CCW to increase) for now...
you must have removed the air supply for the 5/6 ports, there are several threads discussing alternative means for actuating the ports- do a search
you must have removed the air supply for the 5/6 ports, there are several threads discussing alternative means for actuating the ports- do a search
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The engine currently has about 2700 miles. At about 500 miles I tried to improve the rpm with that screw and it did not make any difference. I'll try it again but I think it is currently set to allow max rpm.
We did remove the BAC valve. This will probably expose my ignorance, but can the valve be reinstalled and not install the air pump? Thanks for your help.
We did remove the BAC valve. This will probably expose my ignorance, but can the valve be reinstalled and not install the air pump? Thanks for your help.
#4
i'll blow YOUR valve off
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sounds like an aternator prob to me potentially... those both use power and if the alt is bad then they won't work right... I tried running an accord with no batt or alt... then i tried running it with a bad alt... had similar symptoms to what you are describing... plus that is what happens when the engine has no elec power... it dies...
#5
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Re: 1988 N/A engine problem
Originally posted by jopa
1. The engine won't idle when cold. It barely idles when warn. When warn, if I turn on the headlights or the A/C it dies. We put aluminum plates over the emissions openings and I re-sealed them. At one poit, about 300 miles I over pressured the oil sump and popped up the dip stick. Just wondering if that could have caused a problem.
1. The engine won't idle when cold. It barely idles when warn. When warn, if I turn on the headlights or the A/C it dies. We put aluminum plates over the emissions openings and I re-sealed them. At one poit, about 300 miles I over pressured the oil sump and popped up the dip stick. Just wondering if that could have caused a problem.
Originally posted by jopa
2. The 5th and 6th ports won't open. Does anyone know how I can make them electrically actuated. I don't really want to wire them open. I do have a header I would like to put on.
2. The 5th and 6th ports won't open. Does anyone know how I can make them electrically actuated. I don't really want to wire them open. I do have a header I would like to put on.
You should search before posting so that you might find these threads about aftermarket wiring of air pumps, but no one has successfully used a fully electric soleniod system. Only systems that use an aftermarket or stock air pump... The search function is found in the upper right hand corner of the page.
Last edited by Icemark; 06-05-04 at 11:27 PM.
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We removed the BAC valve and everything else, including the air pump. What do I need to put back in order to make the valve work?
Concerning the 5th and 6th ports - The electronic 6 ports actuation is a www.f3cs.org, then How - To's, and then electrical. Thanks for the tips. Now all I have to do is put it together.
Concerning the 5th and 6th ports - The electronic 6 ports actuation is a www.f3cs.org, then How - To's, and then electrical. Thanks for the tips. Now all I have to do is put it together.
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Actually, at this point I am more interested in the BAC valve and the idle problem. Most of the time I have to do heel and toe.
The engine has been ported and I'm sure the idle would be a lot worse than a normal 5th and 6th port. RR did the porting.
The engine has been ported and I'm sure the idle would be a lot worse than a normal 5th and 6th port. RR did the porting.
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Originally posted by DEZERTE
haha, i bet ur car idles like **** if you dont have a BAC valve. My whe my bac hose was unplugged my car could barely even stay on
haha, i bet ur car idles like **** if you dont have a BAC valve. My whe my bac hose was unplugged my car could barely even stay on
BAC valve is only for when ur car is under load, like it compensates for AC and PS and stuff. I took mine out, idle is fine, but that is also because I have no AC or PS and such.
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