The_Fox

Dumb thread time! My buddy is pulling the motor in his fd to do an ls1 swap. He offered me everything complete for $1500.
The question is this: where are the write ups on this swap? I have searched and haven't come up with squat. Maybe I just fail at searching. Links anyone?

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KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

There is really no need for a swap writeup. Asuming you have the engine mounts, a singlu turbo conversion, and a stand alone ecu, everything will be a "bolt on" affair.

If you are thinking of doing the swap with with the twin turbos, and OEM ecu, forget about it.

Let me help with the hardest part in my opinion, the engine mounts. Heres the available choices:

I've heard this ones are not the greatest, but readily available:
13B REW FC engine swap mounts |

Cant find the mounts on their site. In my opinion, they are of better quality than the motivefab, and cheaper too. Only problem is that the owner only makes them in batches, at the rate of one batch per year (or two)
Shook Motorsports | Chicago-land's Mazda RX7 and RX8 tuning, modification, and maintenance specialist. Located in Rockford, Illinois

Jims5543 setup (I called JR, and a guesstimate for that engine mount was at a min $800):


Some prefer to drill and tap the center iron. I dont like that idea. Hope this helps, and if others have additional info, please post them

The_Fox

So I would be better off doing a single swap and running standalone? Or is it just damn impossible to get the rew in with the twins? Lol
Thanks for the links. I like that cradle.
I'm looking for the quickest, easiest swap possible. And for the time being, I'd also LIKE to keep it as stock as possible until I get a chance to rebuild the motor and THEN start adding more power. I do plan on a front mount fmic(the ricer in me). My battery is relocated, so that won't be an issue.
I'll do what I need to do to make it run right and reliable if I do this swap.

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joeylyrech

iTrader: (11)

Stock twins and ecu forget about it!You want to keep the twins you need a power fc or any other standalone that can control them correctly..........downpipe for twins is a custom unit and space is very tight.If you are NA you need a turbo tranny with starter and S5 clutch flywheel combo,front mount,custom oil cooler hoses and a lot more.
Drill and tap center iron and use stock fc oil pan and front cover(you have 2 select a standalone and find out what electronics you are gonna run)
or buy the prefab mounts and go from there.
Some people have done the swap keeping the stock ecu and turbos but with the amount of time and dificulty involved 2 get the stock ecu happy is not worth it.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the stock FD ecu is a big job to wire up, so its easier to run something else. the twin turbos are also a really tight fit, and need to be controlled by something, so its easier to run an FC turbo, which fits like its stock.

you must do a front mount, as there is no other way.

The_Fox

Oh yeah, the fd didn't have the same ic setup as the t2 fc.
Some just grab a t2 fc manifold and turbo?

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j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

yes, FC turbo and manifold fit like its made for the car. you loose a little hp, but its simple cheap and a bolt on.

if you were resourceful, and cheap it might be possible to run the S5 T2 ecu/wiring harness to run the thing.

joeylyrech

iTrader: (11)

With a s5 turbo and manifold you still need all the turbo electronics(injectors,map sensor ,flow meter,cas,coils,igniters ect,ect)to make it run.

killahrx7

Or you can come see me and I'll do it for you. My car has a rew in it.

The_Fox

I'm wiring-savy.

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jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

Stock twins and aftermarket fd downpipe fits perfect in the FC bay. Convert to non-sequential and get a PFC and PFC to S5 (or S4) adapter, rewire the crank triggers and boom, there you go.

The_Fox

Hmmmmm

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anibalrx8

This morning I got my new garage door opener install. This new genie silent belt drive are great. In the afternoon I wash all four car. Now I just finish having dinner with the wife!!!

The_Fox

I bow before your might, o lord of trolls.

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DonaldC

iTrader: (20)

I agree 100% or you can just buy a Haltech Sprint RE to control the engine. As far as mounting the engine, I have the motivefab mounts ready for my project and there's a local guy who has the shook motorsports mounts who is making 535rwhp with no issues in a convertible.

jaggermouth

iTrader: (1)

Motifab ones work but blow an don't work as is with an oil pan brace. Need to grind it down. Judging by shooks manifolds I'd choose his mounts or make a tube subframe

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

Which mounts do you use?

I want a shookmotorsrports mounts soooooo bad

Please explain, cause I am very very close to ordering a set!

MazdaSpeedDan

iTrader: (4)

Buy it from your friend for 1500 then ill pay you 1600 for it

DonaldC

iTrader: (20)

I ordered a set of the shook mounts. However, after I sent the money to them, I got the biggest runaround from them and had to end up filing a claim with paypal to get my money back. Therefore, I ended up just getting the motivefab set.

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

How do you like them? Any issues with them? and how was the turn around time?

The_Fox

Explain in more detail?

Picked up, or you pay shipping. Lol
I suppose if I did that I could just keep saving and go 20b like I really wanna. Lolol

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killahrx7

i used the stock mounts and made brackets to work with them.

The_Fox

Tuned by 3Face? You wouldn't happen to live here in Georgia, would you? Lol

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killahrx7

lol good one yes

GURLB8

I have a REW FC, mine is LHD being from NZ, it has drilled and tapped centre plate, a custom sump and a slightly modified left hand side (Driver's side to you!) engine mount. Engine is stock with stand alone ECU, FMIC, stainless exhaust manifold and a Garrett Turbo of unknown spec, makes 300rwhp @ 12psi. Had to customise a S6 power steer pulley to fit the S5 pump, also the FC oil cooler lines are not a direct fit, (internal taper vs external taper). Those are all the issues I can remember running into but definitely a job worth doing. Hope that helps.

Cheers, Matt.