I had a descrepancy that I'm not sure if I want to track down or not - I saw a .25v difference from what my AIM dash was showing vs what my Craftsman meter was showing when hunting for an IGN hot. When the full sweep autometer gauge gets hooked up, it'll be interesting taking voltage readings at difference places.

Old you say?

My FD alt claimed to have been tested @ 120A. I never verivied it though. If I still have problems with the new pulley setup I will.

That's ALOT of wire! I generally use 2 ga with the exception of one project that called for 1/0

 

the wolf also has its own power wire, thats 4 gauge.
My wolf tuner told me the wolf likes good, clean power.

btw im 37

 

Friggin' old

 

we should start the old fart's club

 

maybe we could get our own section:

Rotary Performance and Assorted STuff
**ID required- must be 2x age of car**

 

I'm not quite that old, 2x age of car but I have crested the 30 mark though

 

so what's the over all deal? does it work with no problem's i would read the whole thread but im too lazy..a rundown/recap would be nice.

:AA:

 

Yes.
.
-Jack

 

30? Hmmm...You will need a permission slip from your parent or guardian to join!

Or maybe get a younger car to qualify!

 

My Jeep will let me qualify then.

Maybe we should have a, "We do **** right club,"

 

I have old jeeps!
1976 CJ and a 1982 Cherokee wide wheel laredo, 304 and 360 AMC powered!

 

Hey Jack, how well do you think the Taurus alt would relocate to the P/S bracket? MY TMIC won't let me squeeze a Taurus alt in. I've got zero experience relocating alts so I need to educate myself more. But I have a spare P/S-A/C bracket lying around. I want to keep A/C cause I'm a wimp like that. I've been wanting to do the P/S removal mod anyway. Any advice while I do some reading/learning?

 

Just off the cuff, I think you would be better off moving the TMIC to the front of the A/C condenser than attempting to machine a mount on the P/S bracket. Moving TMIC to the front would increase the effectiveness and reduce heat soak. Then, you could mount anything you want to the alt mount.

 

Where do you get these "13b-re multi groove pulley"s?

 

Oh real Jeeps. Before they got all leather and sissy

From a 13B-RE engine

 

but I got to admit my 07' cherokee is much nicer to drive, the old jeeps are good for a blast around but get tiring.

I got the pulleys as notttt said- from someone with a 13B-RE engine, they were using different pulleys. I never tried FD pulleys, they may work.

 

A close friend of mine almost bought an '06 WK Overland which was a REALLY nice rig. You could really see the Benz influence. Personally my lifted 5spd XJ is plently comfy or me

FD pulleys would only work with the FD waterpump and housing as the e-shaft pulley is spaced farther out than the FC/RE pulleys

 

So if I go with the tempo, there is no avoiding the dual pulley?

 

I have a choice of getting a 1 wire or a 3 wire version of the tempo 170A alternator. The seller has been awesome, helping me out tons. I I have an FD alternator in my car now, but I'm sure the regulator is shot from incorrect past install.

Does anybody know for SURE 100% how I should wire in the alternator for the tempo without a stock harness. (I have a haltech standalone.) or should I just get the single wire? I like the idea of the single wire, but I don't like the idea of sub 14v idle and such. I will obviously be needing to install larger gauge wires and such, and getting a smaller diameter pulley so that idle RPMs is 2000+ instead of 1,440.

What do you guys think? 1 wire or 3 wire?

 

Just read up here, I am for sure going 3 wire, I just need to figure out how to wire it in. http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...hreewire.shtml

 

***edit***

here are a couple pictures off the internet... you can run it like in the pictures...

but I ran mine :
The green/red wire goes to the amp/volt meter
the yellow/white should actually go to the ignition on/run
and the white black loops back into the alternator as shown in the pics

 

That yellow/white is the equivelent to our S wire. It should go to wherever you want to hold 14.1 volts. If you want 14.1 at the charging post of the alternator, you should just simplify and get a 1 wire alt.

I would run it to the positive post of the battery given that TweakGames standalone has a standalone. Put a 10 amp fuse for safety and call it a day.

 

Oh! These things are the 3G alternator? Crap. I read while browsing the web that their max RPM is 18,000 rpm. In order for my 4.5 inch crank to make the alternator do 2,400 rpm at idle (900) I had to get a 1.66 inch pulley. But at 7000 engine rpm, the alt is spinning at 19,000. At 7500 21,000. Crap.

 

Pretty much why I decided not to go with a rewind. Remember this post from page 3?

 

How do we win?