myersprostatus

iTrader: (2)

Way to rep the 2nd gens bros!

TitaniumTT

Yeah, that does sound more than a little low

NICE CONNECTORS! I may be asking for some leads on where to get some of those. There is a new project in the works that might need something as heavy as a few 12ga's through the firewall but in all honesty, 12 is generally overkill depending on the wire.

Are you going to terminate one harness to all the sensors, injectors, coils etc and the other to the ECU?

I wouldn't think that a small leak would alter the AFR readings, it's not like it's leaking only one portion of the exhaust is it? I'm confused. I would think the reading's would be fine.

dregg100

iTrader: (34)

my thoughts too. that shouldnt affect afr. only way i could see that being possible is if it were somehow be sucking outside air in, pre-sensor. right? all you have is an annoying sound!! lol

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Well, only reason I thought that was because earlier in the year when I dyno'd on the same machine the AFR was within .1-.2 at WOT (reads way lean at idle because the sensor is in one tail pipe....dual exhaust system too) but once you had some velocity going all out, it (the dyno) would read fine.

I know its not adding other air into the mix to make it read leaner, but my thinking was that the exhaust leaking out would equal less overall exhaust coming out the tailpipe past the sensor....but I see your point and it doesn't really add up, but I can't think of another reason why the dyno was reading almost a full point above my car's meter.

thewird

iTrader: (8)

Possibly it wasn't sealed as well at the exhaust tip and was sucking some air.

thewird

dregg100

iTrader: (34)

you have a cat?

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

not any more, I lost half of it with you in the car and removed the rest with a screwdriver back at the shop But the can is still there with an EGR.

DynoDragon

iTrader: (1)

The tail pipe pickup works fine once the exhaust velocity comes up - IF - there are no exhaust leaks. eg both IAN's and thewird's AFR matches the dyno's within a few decimal points.

In fact, we have went looking for and found exhaust leaks on some cars, when we realized the AFR readings were unreliable. Depending where the leaks are, you could be losing power...

At idle, the combination of the leaks at the dyno's fittings AND the fact that the shop's exhaust system is sucking air past the O2 sensor, makes for extreme lean readings. The AFR reading is often 40+ under those conditions.

TitaniumTT

I just read something interesting in book on engine management/tuning that is relavent to this. I can't find it to quote it 100%, so here is the paraphrasing -
Exhaust works in pulses. If there is a leak in the exhaust system the pulse will forse exhaust gas out of the leak. This does not effect the Lambda readings downstream. What does effect the lambda readings downstream is when the pulse passes the leak it createa a slight vaccuum and pulls outside air into the exhaust stream - think scavenging. Any leaks upstream of the Lambda sensor seed to be fixed before attempting to take any readings otherwise you will be running much richer than you think you are.

DynoDragon

iTrader: (1)

That makes a lot of sense - I saw some drag cars route the crankcase vents to a fitting(s), welded 90deg to the collectors, to reduce crankcase pressure. So they are using the exhaust flow as vacuum/scavenge source.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

There's a nice little excerpt from the Powerdex manual that talks about ensuring there are no leaks upstream from the sensor because it can cause erronious readings. I'll quote it later on when I get a chance.

I've checked out my fuel pump - sock was fine, wiring looks fine....I'm hoping the issue was caused by the main filter, but I don't have a tube cutter large enough to cut it open without screwing it all to rat.....I'll just have to replace it and see what happens I guess.

Been busy wiring it up, lots of pics in my electromotive thread.

I wanted to post this though, I'm sure you'll get a kick out of it................

__________________________________________________ ____________


Anyone ever found mice in there garage before? Sure, we all have right? little mouse running across the floor, lay some traps, catch the bastard, hopefully never repeat.

Well I have a little tennant who's new to my garage at home, and apparently he's not very aware of the protocol. I came in to work on the car the other night to find this:



For a second, I wasn't sure what happened. I had all four ports plugged up with some shop towel, and noticed all kinds of small bits around the engine bay. I get looking at the lower intake, and noticed what I saw in the pic. Rear secondary chewed, rear primary missing....

I peeked down the hole and can see lots of bits of towel in there, but no mouse (yet). I'd imagine he'd be stuck in there if he fell in though. The engine is coming out anyways for the front cover swap, and tonite I'll be yoinking the LIM when its all out and seeing just what's sleeping or DEAD in my primary port.


Wankels, so ******* mysterious even mice want to figure them out.

EDIT: MORAL OF THE STORY. Use tape to cover up holes in your engine

thewird

iTrader: (8)

Fire it up and see if the rat comes out the exhaust

thewird

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

That's hilarious! Next time we meet in person, I'll tell you the story about how a mouse ruined a twin turbo V8 project I was helping with...

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

LOL I can only imagine....can't wait for that story

Here's that quote from the powerdex manual RE: Lean readings on the wideband. Not very descriptive, and doesn't provide many reasons, but nonetheless.

NotTTT

That's interesting about the 12-48" from the exhaust port. I don't think mine is there. I'm going to thumb through the Motec wiring destructions and see what they say. I'm moving the sensor anyway as it is just too close the the turbo y-pipe for my liking. You have to force a 10mm around the sensor. So it's moving.

I didn't know you had an electromotive thread Joe. I'm going to have to check that out.

-B

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, I've had a number of different types of wideband through the years and most *usually* recommend around 36" from the port.

In case you can't find it:

https://www.rx7club.com/electromotive-tec-274/%2A%2A-%2A%2A-offical-electromotive-tec-install-thread%2A%2A-%2A%2A-769497/


Got some new items

New shift boot(s). Lower, and middle. I've got a nazdatrix short shifter to go in the rebuilt tranny, it has a new boot on it already. Should be nice having them all seal up!


And people - DON"T BE CHEAP - Mazda has alot of items for this car very reasonably priced. Stuff like this (shift boots) you will RARELY ever find used. Always check with your dealer on odd ball items, you'll be amazed.



New heater core hoses. Old ones weren't too shabby, but they're cheap, and can save a hell of alot of swearing if they let go roadside. They were two of the few ORIGINAL hoses left on the ol' girl.


Engine's currently out, the front cover *should* be done the machine work by next week so I can start reversing the removal process. Lots of pics of that too come....new Mazmart waterpump, T04-R is back in service, A-spec tubular manifold, and a few other goodies, stay tuned


EDIT: And yes, that drill doctor drill bit sharpener is the cat's ***

DynoDragon

iTrader: (1)

It's interesting that we can get good readings at the end of the tail pipe - at least when the motor is under load. We have good match to readings with the sensor in a proper bung. (No cat in the system)

Last May, Brian Cole used my little adaptor to hold the O2 sensor in the tail pipe when he was doing some street tuning...

DynoDragon

iTrader: (1)

...Brian CAIN

Alex Rodriguez

iTrader: (137)

man looks good brother, glad to see you update her.

Whens is the next bodywork session?

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Unfortunately I won't be getting to the bodywork this season. As I laid out, I have some plans to change the bumper/lights again and add mouldings to both of the bumpers.

As I'm sure you're aware, its quite a bit of dicking around to make it all just perfect. Rather then rush it this year I'm just going to rock it out as is all summer, and next winter I'll get it the way I intended to make it.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Don't know what happened to the pics of my shift boot? Oh well.

GOOD NEWS: No mice in the engine, just some bits of towel...All good. Pulled the LIM and cleaned it all up. Luckily the port was mostly closed by the rotor, so nothing really got right inside anyways....


PROGRESS:


Rebuilt tranny



You can see the 58 tooth trigger wheel setup here. Also, this is my Mazmart (hi-flow) waterpump assembly - obviously an FD item - along with the pineapple racing idler pulley setup. Right now, as it sits, the belt is VERY loose (want to run it in a bit, and tension it while warm) but even with the belt loose you can turn over the engine by turning the alt. or water pump or idler pulley.........so no more slipping belts for me!!


Some of you might be asking: "FD front cover, FD waterpump? WTF? how di you do that?" Well that is how. A big, PITA, suepr custom adaptor plate. To be honest, after going through the work of having this mated to an FC engine - I would've been further ahead to jsut mount the whole goddamn REW in the car. Would've been much easier to fab a piece of heavy flat bar to mount the engine then **** around with this crap.................but life is a lesson we learn as we go.


More adaptor fun. Notice anything that is going to be a problem in this and the previous pic? Yeah, oil pump. Kinda need some space for that bad boy.


Current EGT setup. Front and rear are on the A-pillar, and boost is in the door.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Made some room for the oil pump.


The fuel starvation issue? Well, it won't be caused by the sock anymore. Although to be honest, I checked everything over on the fuel system, and didn't see anything bad. Of course, I couldn't cut open the main fuel filter but my gut feeling says it was just clogged...it had a whole season's driving on it. So - new sock, new main filter, same pump (Rx7.com nippondenso) + kenne bell.


In order to put the T04-R back into service I had to mod the turbine housing. I bought this turbo from SPEEDMACHINE PERFORMANCE I'm sure recall those guys. Good fellas for the most part, but this thign pissed me off to no avail. The v band they **FULLY** welded in was:
A) Crooked as ****
B) Some random dimension from god knows where (so it will never fit a v band flange you'll have on any downpipe)
C) Had been ground down with a 36grit grinding wheel on the back and would never seal....I think this was to try and fix this unfixable crooked ness.

So I welded on an ATP vband flange, problem solved. But that should not be a problem you have to deal with, especially when those ******* charge you EXTRA to do that "service"




So I got the engine in:


And played with turbo orientation. I'll be going with the top pic. Piping is further from the exhaust, and will be a little shorter. Not many options though with this placement.

Should be running on the downpipe this weekend, on the road terroizing next week.

siguy2k

iTrader: (3)

What a journey man!!! I just read through your whole thread. Way to stay determined. Great work and awesome car!!

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Thanks bro!

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JrMsneShkdQ

Got it started up over the weekend. I have a random fuel leak in the middle of one of my AN lines? which is just retarded. I could only start the car briefly, but wanted to make sure everything is working correctly........and apparently it is

Couple days and she'll be blasting up the road.