Classicauto's S4 TII
06-05-08, 11:02 AM
#126
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www.cj-motorsports.com its their stage one for the FD.
06-20-08, 07:27 AM
#129
Well, another huge ******* set back.
Blown - again. Only this time, its the rear rotor (had always blown the front in the past)
Scenario - after booking the dyno I was driving to a supply sale at a jobber when at a stop light idling, my RPM's blipped again despite nearly 5 weeks of issue free driving. I was extremely frustrated so I tore it apart. I ohm'd the CAS wiring right from the wires where they attach INSIDE the CAS, right out to the pin's on the on the plug at the ECU.....Found that they are all low resistance and were all very close in resistance (compared them to air temp sending wire and TPS wire resistance)
So, confused and frustrated I put it back together with even more shielding aroudn the alternator (bearing in mind I've seperated the alt. wiring as far as physically possible from the CAS wiring) pulled it outside and ran the car. However, this time I ran the car with lowered filter settings in the haltech as fthis was where I was getting the most noise. In fact - the car barely runs at all in this state and the tach jumps around like a jumping bean. I figured with the lowered filters I would move wires around and look for a bad connection or source of noise. Well moving wires did absolutely dick all. I did discover though after going through every possible combination of gains/filters that the lower I set the gain, the smoother it ran. Which was completely opposite of what I experienced before....odd. So I went for a drive on gains and filters of 1 and after a slow rev up through the RPM band, I felt and saw on the tach another "blip" so - after 1/2 a tank of gas idling (had to crank the set screw in so it would run at 2500RPM otherwise it would shut itself off from the RPM variation) and still no definete source or cause for the RPM jitters, I set the setting back to where I had ran the car for nearly 5 weeks without issue other then the one at idle a day ago.
Went to pick up my girlfriend for a movie. On the way home, we're cruising the backroads - its late I'm taking it very easy. My girlfriend is actually asleep at this point somehow bent over the center console leaning on my arm...still don't know how that doesn't hurt. I'm lazily granny shifting up to the speed limit when I hear (because the radio is off and I'm ******* granny'ing it) this sound. This very distinct and forbidden tick tick tick ratlling from under the hood. My girlfriend asks me as she's squirming for comfort "whats loose on the car?"
Well nothing's loose but the engine is now blown. Thats right, blown at sub 4,000RPM sub 4psi with absolutely no RPM blips present at the time this happened (it hadn't done it again after the last setting change I made) and no change in the tune since BDC finished in May. (other then the gains/filters)
Soooo yeah. Absolutely no fuckign idea what happened, but I do know I've never ever HEARD a rotary knock until last night. But I have absolutely no clue as to why it would knock all of a sudden (not to mention at virtually ZERO load) and why it would do so on its own accord. I can even see if I felt or saw an RPM blip that that *might* just be enough to jar its brain.....................but for real?? no blips, between 3 and 4K rpm, less than 4psi (was just accelerating to the speedlimit, nothing fancy) and its blown>?????
I don't know exactly what I'm going to do as far as rebuilding the engine goes but it'll be at Deal's gap next year sure as ****. It just mostly sucks because I can't exactly afford ANOTHER rebuild at this point, plus I'm working on getting my house liveable before the end of the summer so I need some cash for that.....but thats the way she goes.
On a side note we saw Kung Fu Panda, and this stuck with me - "A man often meets his destiny on the road he takes to avoid it"
I'll post something eventually......lata
Blown - again. Only this time, its the rear rotor (had always blown the front in the past)
Scenario - after booking the dyno I was driving to a supply sale at a jobber when at a stop light idling, my RPM's blipped again despite nearly 5 weeks of issue free driving. I was extremely frustrated so I tore it apart. I ohm'd the CAS wiring right from the wires where they attach INSIDE the CAS, right out to the pin's on the on the plug at the ECU.....Found that they are all low resistance and were all very close in resistance (compared them to air temp sending wire and TPS wire resistance)
So, confused and frustrated I put it back together with even more shielding aroudn the alternator (bearing in mind I've seperated the alt. wiring as far as physically possible from the CAS wiring) pulled it outside and ran the car. However, this time I ran the car with lowered filter settings in the haltech as fthis was where I was getting the most noise. In fact - the car barely runs at all in this state and the tach jumps around like a jumping bean. I figured with the lowered filters I would move wires around and look for a bad connection or source of noise. Well moving wires did absolutely dick all. I did discover though after going through every possible combination of gains/filters that the lower I set the gain, the smoother it ran. Which was completely opposite of what I experienced before....odd. So I went for a drive on gains and filters of 1 and after a slow rev up through the RPM band, I felt and saw on the tach another "blip" so - after 1/2 a tank of gas idling (had to crank the set screw in so it would run at 2500RPM otherwise it would shut itself off from the RPM variation) and still no definete source or cause for the RPM jitters, I set the setting back to where I had ran the car for nearly 5 weeks without issue other then the one at idle a day ago.
Went to pick up my girlfriend for a movie. On the way home, we're cruising the backroads - its late I'm taking it very easy. My girlfriend is actually asleep at this point somehow bent over the center console leaning on my arm...still don't know how that doesn't hurt. I'm lazily granny shifting up to the speed limit when I hear (because the radio is off and I'm ******* granny'ing it) this sound. This very distinct and forbidden tick tick tick ratlling from under the hood. My girlfriend asks me as she's squirming for comfort "whats loose on the car?"
Well nothing's loose but the engine is now blown. Thats right, blown at sub 4,000RPM sub 4psi with absolutely no RPM blips present at the time this happened (it hadn't done it again after the last setting change I made) and no change in the tune since BDC finished in May. (other then the gains/filters)
Soooo yeah. Absolutely no fuckign idea what happened, but I do know I've never ever HEARD a rotary knock until last night. But I have absolutely no clue as to why it would knock all of a sudden (not to mention at virtually ZERO load) and why it would do so on its own accord. I can even see if I felt or saw an RPM blip that that *might* just be enough to jar its brain.....................but for real?? no blips, between 3 and 4K rpm, less than 4psi (was just accelerating to the speedlimit, nothing fancy) and its blown>?????
I don't know exactly what I'm going to do as far as rebuilding the engine goes but it'll be at Deal's gap next year sure as ****. It just mostly sucks because I can't exactly afford ANOTHER rebuild at this point, plus I'm working on getting my house liveable before the end of the summer so I need some cash for that.....but thats the way she goes.
On a side note we saw Kung Fu Panda, and this stuck with me - "A man often meets his destiny on the road he takes to avoid it"
I'll post something eventually......lata
06-20-08, 10:33 AM
#131
LS1? whats that a new kind of apex seal?? 
No way man, not ever in this car. I've just got to figure out whats causing this completely random detonation but my gut tells me to put a pick-ax through that E6X and mail it back to Haltech with a thank you note.
I'd consider that FD......................straight up trade?
No way man, not ever in this car. I've just got to figure out whats causing this completely random detonation but my gut tells me to put a pick-ax through that E6X and mail it back to Haltech with a thank you note.
I'd consider that FD......................straight up trade?
06-20-08, 10:38 AM
#132
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get out of this thread.
sorry to hear about yet another setback joe, you have some kind of luck. lol. this is where you sell that x and put a K in there. keep us updated
i think im going to alabama the first week in july to have steve tune my car!
sorry to hear about yet another setback joe, you have some kind of luck. lol. this is where you sell that x and put a K in there. keep us updated
i think im going to alabama the first week in july to have steve tune my car!
06-20-08, 11:03 AM
#134
As for the ECU - I really don't know what I'm going to do, I'll have to tear the thing down and evaluate the problem. Here's where the aviation addage of "until you find the cause of the fault, you're doomed to repeat it with expensive results" comes into play. I won't even plan the next moves until I know beyond a shadow of a doubt exactly what was monkeying around in there.
And don't sweat 7_rocket, he's a local guy just ribbin'
Good luck with the FD and the tunage - I want a joyride in '09!
06-23-08, 08:33 AM
#136
Well some testing has determined that *gasp* somethings not right!! lol
With the timing gun on L1, and timing locked, I can sit there and rev the motor everythign will be cool no timing scatter when all of a sudden the timing mark will go mysteriously missing - and you'll find it about 50 degrees retarded on the side of the pulley...................then it'll come back to its home.
So the ECU seems to be doing some strange things with advance on its own. Its definetly going back to Haltech.
More to come on tuesday when I start tearing it down. Plan is to do a half-rebuild (only pull the rear rotor) of the existing keg, and purchase another J-spec for a full rebuild for install over the winter. I realize a half rebuild isn't the way to do it "properly" but I feel it'll work just fine and fits my needs and budget for the moment.
With the timing gun on L1, and timing locked, I can sit there and rev the motor everythign will be cool no timing scatter when all of a sudden the timing mark will go mysteriously missing - and you'll find it about 50 degrees retarded on the side of the pulley...................then it'll come back to its home.
So the ECU seems to be doing some strange things with advance on its own. Its definetly going back to Haltech.
More to come on tuesday when I start tearing it down. Plan is to do a half-rebuild (only pull the rear rotor) of the existing keg, and purchase another J-spec for a full rebuild for install over the winter. I realize a half rebuild isn't the way to do it "properly" but I feel it'll work just fine and fits my needs and budget for the moment.
06-25-08, 04:14 PM
#137
Well, after observing the advance mentioned above, frustration has gotten the better of me and I've chose to jump the Haltech ship.
Earlier I had mentioned the possibility of a MoTeC ECU and have looked into this avenue for a few days. After stacking nuumbers and capability it looked appealing, but I decided to research further. I looked into Autronic (also big bucks) and electromotive and decided on a TEC-GT.
The unit will be firing sequential ignition and fuel, get its signal from a 58 tooth 5" optical trigger kit (that'll be fun to setup.....) with a home adapter I install on the CAS. The home trigger is required for sequential ignition.
For those interested, I chose this ECU for a few reasons:
1) I wanted a different trigger system then the stock CAS. I'm sure you've seen the frustration I've had to deal with from issues in and around (and some unrelated...) to the CAS. Sure, works for some - but hasn't for me.
2) Price. The unit with all the aforementioned products was under $2400. I'd be into $2700 for an M2R and I would have no outputs left after hooking up an E-fan. The TEC GT will have 4 remaining outputs after driving 4 low impedance injectors sequentially, and 4 coils sequentially. (not to mention the M2R would use my feared CAS)
3) Easy for me to put in. Since the unit uses GM sensors, all my sensors for the Haltech can be utilized. I'll simply be adding power/groudn to the ECU, and using all my existing sensor wiring by soldering the TEC GT's wires to the existing plugs. Only total re-wiring will be for crank position and sequential coil operation.
Sooooo yeah. I'm debating on sellign the E6X as a faulty unit for repair, or having it repaired and then selling.........dunno what i'll do.
Link to the TEC-gt:
http://www.distributorless.com/products/tecgt.php
Earlier I had mentioned the possibility of a MoTeC ECU and have looked into this avenue for a few days. After stacking nuumbers and capability it looked appealing, but I decided to research further. I looked into Autronic (also big bucks) and electromotive and decided on a TEC-GT.
The unit will be firing sequential ignition and fuel, get its signal from a 58 tooth 5" optical trigger kit (that'll be fun to setup.....) with a home adapter I install on the CAS. The home trigger is required for sequential ignition.
For those interested, I chose this ECU for a few reasons:
1) I wanted a different trigger system then the stock CAS. I'm sure you've seen the frustration I've had to deal with from issues in and around (and some unrelated...) to the CAS. Sure, works for some - but hasn't for me.
2) Price. The unit with all the aforementioned products was under $2400. I'd be into $2700 for an M2R and I would have no outputs left after hooking up an E-fan. The TEC GT will have 4 remaining outputs after driving 4 low impedance injectors sequentially, and 4 coils sequentially. (not to mention the M2R would use my feared CAS)
3) Easy for me to put in. Since the unit uses GM sensors, all my sensors for the Haltech can be utilized. I'll simply be adding power/groudn to the ECU, and using all my existing sensor wiring by soldering the TEC GT's wires to the existing plugs. Only total re-wiring will be for crank position and sequential coil operation.
Sooooo yeah. I'm debating on sellign the E6X as a faulty unit for repair, or having it repaired and then selling.........dunno what i'll do.
Link to the TEC-gt:
http://www.distributorless.com/products/tecgt.php
06-26-08, 01:51 PM
#139
Thanks Macz!
And things are looking up, local member dead-eye has begun a part out of his project FC and I've got my foot in the door on his engine. Just a stock S5 TII motor, but it will allow me to do a full tear down of the current engine and rebuild properly while running the other keg.
Hopefully within two weeks he'll have it out for me.....
And things are looking up, local member dead-eye has begun a part out of his project FC and I've got my foot in the door on his engine. Just a stock S5 TII motor, but it will allow me to do a full tear down of the current engine and rebuild properly while running the other keg.
Hopefully within two weeks he'll have it out for me.....
06-27-08, 09:46 AM
#142
Engine, Not Motor
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This might be a terrible suggestion based on the known lack of features on the Microtech (no save to disk, no closed loop, few configurable outputs, "locked" engine configuration, etc.) but maybe a Microtech LT8 or LT10 is something you need to look at? Their VR conditioners are the most robust I've seen and I've never experienced (nor heard of anyone else experiencing) ignition pickup noise on any of the LT series ECUs.
06-27-08, 10:05 AM
#143
Thanks for the comments guys! And thanks for the good luck Mark....
peechykeen - I'm planning on tuning it myself yes. I've tuned all my previous setups and was unconfident in my capabilities after experiencing constant failures on my tunes. But time has revealed that I was not the missing link in the chain....at least every time. I had BDC tune my car (as far as we could wit hthe issues) and after picking his brain and experiencing many cars being tuned by him that week, I feel my abilities will fill my needs in the future. So yes, I'll be now doing everything myself
Aaron - I've actually looked into microtech for the exact reason you mention. But when it boiled right down to it, I wanted to try a different type of trigger altogether. In part because I'm disappointed with how well I've made out with a stock CAS, but also simply to try another method. Also, with a 60-2 wheel on that baby I should be able to have unparalleled accuracy RPM wise.
Another thing that steered me away from the microtech was just simply capability. I enjoyed playing with all of the feautres on the Haltech, but was quickly reaching the limits of what it could do. I'd highly recommend downloading the wintec v4 software used on the TEC GT and having a look at some of the things this ECU can do, its pretty wild. Thats not to say that the microtech isn't a capable ECU, but rather the Electromotive met more of my needs (ok ok they're wants!! ) in the trigger and ignition department then I could find elsewhere.
peechykeen - I'm planning on tuning it myself yes. I've tuned all my previous setups and was unconfident in my capabilities after experiencing constant failures on my tunes. But time has revealed that I was not the missing link in the chain....at least every time. I had BDC tune my car (as far as we could wit hthe issues) and after picking his brain and experiencing many cars being tuned by him that week, I feel my abilities will fill my needs in the future. So yes, I'll be now doing everything myself
Aaron - I've actually looked into microtech for the exact reason you mention. But when it boiled right down to it, I wanted to try a different type of trigger altogether. In part because I'm disappointed with how well I've made out with a stock CAS, but also simply to try another method. Also, with a 60-2 wheel on that baby I should be able to have unparalleled accuracy RPM wise.
Another thing that steered me away from the microtech was just simply capability. I enjoyed playing with all of the feautres on the Haltech, but was quickly reaching the limits of what it could do. I'd highly recommend downloading the wintec v4 software used on the TEC GT and having a look at some of the things this ECU can do, its pretty wild. Thats not to say that the microtech isn't a capable ECU, but rather the Electromotive met more of my needs (ok ok they're wants!!
) in the trigger and ignition department then I could find elsewhere.
07-08-08, 02:12 PM
#144
Electromotive has arrived!
I began a thread in the engine management section thats focused on the install of the TEC-GT.
I'll link a couple pics in here though. I'll basically just add some of the more interesting shots of progress in this thread as I install it. This thread: https://www.rx7club.com/electromotive-tec-274/%2A%2A-%2A%2A-offical-electromotive-tec-install-thread%2A%2A-%2A%2A-769497/ will have all of the nitty gritty details of the install if you care to read or are planning on an Electromotive ECU for yourself.
Some quick pics:
I'll link a couple pics in here though. I'll basically just add some of the more interesting shots of progress in this thread as I install it. This thread: https://www.rx7club.com/electromotive-tec-274/%2A%2A-%2A%2A-offical-electromotive-tec-install-thread%2A%2A-%2A%2A-769497/ will have all of the nitty gritty details of the install if you care to read or are planning on an Electromotive ECU for yourself.
Some quick pics:
07-08-08, 07:31 PM
#145
Engine, Not Motor
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That's a nice trigger wheel. What kind of VR sensor is included?
I've done a 60-2 wheel with 2nd trigger on a VW VR6. Seemed to work out alright, and noise free as well. Haltech E6X which was supposed to be very noise sensitive (though I had no issues).
I've done a 60-2 wheel with 2nd trigger on a VW VR6. Seemed to work out alright, and noise free as well. Haltech E6X which was supposed to be very noise sensitive (though I had no issues).
07-09-08, 08:15 AM
#146
Its a 1/2" Mag sensor.
The wheel was a "bolt on" kit for an FD. I thought it would be the closest useable diameter (5 1/2" I believe when I measured my pulley) but I'm thinking the universal one would have been more suited. Oh well, I'll need to have it machined and checked on a lathe either way I suppose...
And yes, lots of people have success with that ECU despite how many people say its bad. I personally still like the haltech it was easy to use, easy to tune, but I just have terrible luck.
The wheel was a "bolt on" kit for an FD. I thought it would be the closest useable diameter (5 1/2" I believe when I measured my pulley) but I'm thinking the universal one would have been more suited. Oh well, I'll need to have it machined and checked on a lathe either way I suppose...
And yes, lots of people have success with that ECU despite how many people say its bad. I personally still like the haltech it was easy to use, easy to tune, but I just have terrible luck.
07-09-08, 09:58 AM
#147
tom port.. AKA streetport
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owning a shop dont sound like terrible luck to me? good to see your not the majority of the people and get out of the rotary world swap for a LS1 because of the setbacks....
07-09-08, 10:35 AM
#148
haha, yeah no I certainly have good luck and a good life! Just that I sometimes end up getting the short end of the stick. Ex. First rebuild I ever purchased and installed failed in 300KM's, had paper instructions in the oil pan, huge side seal clearances, the first E6X unit I had (that was purchased brand new) was not functional when I got it - the injector driver's were all screwed up, that type of stuff. I'm a golden example of Murphy's Law
07-17-08, 08:34 AM
#149
Global Warming strikes back!!
Well, I had planned to roll my car over to the shop today and start pulling it all apart. But it seems I'm a moment too late.
Yesterday around 4:20 we had a massive hail storm. I saw chunks of ice falling that weren't even cubes/*****, they were literally CHUNKS, jagged icy chunks.
My FC parked in the driveway took a good hammering. The hood, one fender, drivers door, roof, sunroof, rear finish panel, rear spoiler and left quarter are littered with small dings. Looks like a 7/8's repaint is going to also occur over my downtime in the winter.
Comprehensive coverage FTMFW. Anyone know a good bodyshop???
Yesterday around 4:20 we had a massive hail storm. I saw chunks of ice falling that weren't even cubes/*****, they were literally CHUNKS, jagged icy chunks.
My FC parked in the driveway took a good hammering. The hood, one fender, drivers door, roof, sunroof, rear finish panel, rear spoiler and left quarter are littered with small dings. Looks like a 7/8's repaint is going to also occur over my downtime in the winter.
Comprehensive coverage FTMFW. Anyone know a good bodyshop???
