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I am currently taking apart my '87 GXL. I have already done more work than I have intended. I would rather repair or replace what I can now and have no regrets. I see oil around the oil pan. I believe the one side is from the oil filler neck area. I cleaned that side of the keg and it was bad. I assume that the oil just continued down to the side of the oil pan. The other side, It looks like a leak from above the oil pan gasket. I am going to assume that this is from the OMP. Please see below:
Keep in mind, this is after some cleaning. I was planning to not replace the oil pan gasket, will I regret this idea???? Is this easy enough that not replacing it while you have easy access would be foolish?
I do plan to tear apart the top of the engine to clean the intakes, replace hoses, replace the fuel dampener and do the other fuel injectors later. There is some other things like the engine ground that need done at the same time.
Not including the above mentioned that get done with the intake and easy to reach coolant hoses and vacuum lines. Are there any must do things that I will regret not doing before I reassemble the front sub frame and suspension.
I do understand it will be hard to answer some of this without so additional information. Ask any questions that are necessary. Thanks!
Since you have it out, i would just re-seal it. at the Factory they use sealant, but they sell a gasket.
the sealant is actually cheap now, 0000-77-1217-ES retail is under $13
the oil level sender O ring is N326-10-T11
Thanks for the input. I have the pan out now. there was no oil level sender o-ring. And..... a broken stud. It looks like a couple bolts came loose and i found a few. Someone must have noticed the same thing and over torqued the bolt. I always re-drill and tap. This might get an easy out.
Any other advise from anyone else?
I will post a link from an oil pan thread when i find it. There is some really good info in there from @aaroncake
Thanks for the input. I have the pan out now. there was no oil level sender o-ring. And..... a broken stud. It looks like a couple bolts came loose and i found a few. Someone must have noticed the same thing and over torqued the bolt. I always re-drill and tap. This might get an easy out.
Any other advise from anyone else?
I will post a link from an oil pan thread when i find it. There is some really good info in there from @aaroncake
I am replacing the engine on my 88 GXL, the last engine had oil leaking from the pan.
When I installed this pan I paid no attention to how much torque I applied to the bolts, tightened them in a cris-cross pattern until I felt they were tight enough!
With my new engine I found out the bolts only need 69-95 in-lbs, that is 6-8 ft-lbs!
Tightening the bolts more than this will push out most of the gasket sealer with whatever is left prone to leak. Gasket with stud kit
To make sure that this oil pan will not leak:
Cleaned the oil pan flange and checked it for flatness (warped).
Used a gasket with RTV sealant applied to both sides.
Installed a stud kit for proper alignment.
Used an inch-pound torque after waiting 15 -20 minutes with the nuts finger tight only. This lets the RTV start to cure before tightening any further. This is critical to keeping the RTV from being squeezed out.
Torqued in stages in a cris-cross pattern with the final torque of 82 in-lbs.
You can see the amount of squeeze out I have using the recommended bead size for the RTV. That can be trimmed away before applying the final bead of RTV to the gasket.
It is a good deal of work to do, but if you don't want any oil leaks......
I just read about the stud kits. Why do these mods seem so obvious after reading about them. May I ask where you got the stud kit? I could just build my own however, I was considering supporting a vendor here.
I just bought the Banzai kit. I now have the problem that the oil pan mounting surface has flaking paint.
Any advice here would be helpful. Thanks.
Flaking paint on any surface that the RTV bond to is a problem!
Wire brush and sand the surface to shiny metal.
Clean the surface with Mineral Spirits, or another metal cleaner before Priming.
Prime and top coat with a good brand of rattle can automotive paint.
Once it has dried it should be good to go!
Thanks, after some thought, I will forgo the gasket and the paint at the mating surface. I may regret this however, I can live with this. Thanks for the picture of the gasket surface, that is a huge help as to where the gasket maker goes!
I hope that your restoration job is going well. You have been super dedicated to getting it completed.