When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I've read this is a more common spot for oil leaks. Just looking for a second opinion that it is in fact what I think it is. My concern is the oil dripping from the bolt under the close side of the header flange. I just took the cover off, checked fluids, and started it for the first time since last summer (hence the cobwebs).
That looks like a oil pan gasket leak. Also check the oil metering pump.
The oil pan gasket can be replaced without removing the engine. Remove the steering link from the passenger side idler arm. Remove the two bolts from the engine mounts and use an engine hoist to pull the engine up about 2 inches. It takes some patients to get the pan out and back in. A second set of hands helps.
I think it was Stu's idea, but getting a few bolts with the same thread pitch an cutting the heads off to act as a guide. This saved me a lot of time and hassle with gasket sealer not getting all over the place as you try and align it.
+1 for omp. Wash the entire front of engine and oil pan area,air dry and run engine while watching for origin of oil leak.
Could be oil pan leaking,seen more omps leaking and running down around pan rail making it appear that oil pan is leaking.
Use carb cleaner or brakleen to wash down engine.
Thanks for the quick replies! I planned on doing the FMOC and lines along with the OMP rebuild but I think if I'm going to do the oil pan gasket on top of it, I may just block off the OMP for now and premix. I also have needed an SA oil level sensor for like 8 years now so I'm hoping to source a decent used oil pan with the sensor included. I figure if I have a spare pan clean and ready to go it will make the job way easier. Saw some a few places for only 25-40 bucks. I could even paint it to make it look real nice!
I did read that tip on lining up the oil pan... that's a great idea. I'm wondering If I should just go ahead and replace everything, or just do the OMP and FMOC with a fresh oil change for now. I'll take a closer look this week and see if I can pin point the leak. I know for a fact the OMP is leaking since I saw it last year before I covered the car for the season. In fact now that I think of it, the car is tilted towards the rear anyways from the jack stands being higher in the front.
Yeah I planned on keeping it and rebuilding it... eventually putting it back in. It always worked, just recently started leaking. Not really breaking the bank for a 20 dollar gasket kit lol.
[QUOTE=Qingdao;12355088]Yeah, but feeding off the engine's lubrication just seems vampiric.
Never had a working OMP; so I can't comment on it, but wouldn't you need to carry a bottle of motor oil with you anyways?[/QUOTE
Never have carried extra oil with me. I go out and rip around my road occasionally,but use my car for short trips with my girl,weekend getaways... to the mountains,cruising extended periods of time 75-80 mph. Home to mountains,cruise around a bit while there and home again,3 tanks of gas. Check oil at each fill up,no change on dipstick. Don't really ever have to add more than 1/2 qt between oil changes to keep it full. Obviously not a dd,oil consumption very low. If i were to drive across country for example,i'd carry a quart of oil in same box as antifreeze,extra plugs,drive belts,handful of tools,etc and hope to not need any of it. Maybe bring 2 quarts of oil,lol.
I'm halfway through taking my engine out, slowly but surely. I have a stupid coolant leak under the carb, a transmission fluid leak, and a very minor dowel leak.
Should note there is a couple of places that sell a pretty sweet oil pan STUD kit, stainless steel, for all of about $20. Saves the Fear&Loathing of over-torquing pan bolts into the fragile block threads....
(so DO pay attention to torque specs!!)
Should note there is a couple of places that sell a pretty sweet oil pan STUD kit, stainless steel, for all of about $20. Saves the Fear&Loathing of over-torquing pan bolts into the fragile block threads....
(so DO pay attention to torque specs!!)
Stu A
80GS
AZ
I'll look into that for sure. I'm hoping the OMP and freeze plugs solve my problem though. I'm having trouble sourcing an SA oil pan with the sensor still in it!
'Luck _d
SA oil sensors have been NLA since forever. And even sourcing a used SA pan doesn't guarantee the sensor is working. They were a pretty fragile design, which is why the FBs came out with a new style. Suggest 2 options:
1) source an FB pan and wire in THAT sensor. MUCH more common.
2) bag the sensor. Even if you managed to find an operating sensor, the chances going forward it will fail are prob guaranteed, so if that is your hopes for oil protection, that maybe misplaced. Join the rest of us SA owners and just make a habit of checking oil consumption.
All part of the rotary-experience
Stu A
80GS
AZ
'Luck _d
SA oil sensors have been NLA since forever. And even sourcing a used SA pan doesn't guarantee the sensor is working. They were a pretty fragile design, which is why the FBs came out with a new style. Suggest 2 options:
1) source an FB pan and wire in THAT sensor. MUCH more common.
2) bag the sensor. Even if you managed to find an operating sensor, the chances going forward it will fail are prob guaranteed, so if that is your hopes for oil protection, that maybe misplaced. Join the rest of us SA owners and just make a habit of checking oil consumption.
All part of the rotary-experience
Stu A
80GS
AZ
I check the oil almost every time I drive as it is lol. I'm assuming the threads are different on the two sensors, otherwise someone would have already figured out how to retrofit the FB sensor into the SA pan correct?
What you have listed will work for the oil pressure, but not for the sensors in the pan.
yeah the block pressure sensors are still available. Oil level sensor is the missing piece to the puzzle. I'll have to upgrade to the fb pan eventually unless the leak is actually from the oil pan gasket... then it will be sooner than later. Already blocked off the OMP and disconnected the carb to pull the intake for the freeze plugs and gasket. Just waiting on the gasket for that, and the new oil cooler/lines. Fingers crossed it's just those leaking! And speaking of oil coolers... anyone upgrade to an aftermarket aluminum one? I don't feel like buying the 40 dollar a piece FMOC brackets. I was probably just going to fab something. I've only seen one person on here make mounts out of exhaust hanger straps which seemed to work fine.
The issue with all the aftermarket oil coolers I've seen is that they do not contain the internal thermostat.
I'm running an aftermarket rotaryworks cooler on my 1985 but I added an Earls external thermostat Taking this road requires a lot of custom work.
I have a GSL-SE cooler on my 1979. The previous owner did this. He had to fab some brackets
Ugh. I saw the bung on the bottom of the aluminum OC and thought the stock one might fit. I guess I'll have to go with an inline one. Earl's external thermostat seems a bit different than the one pictured. Perhaps an updated version is out now?
Earl's external thermostat seems a bit different than the one pictured. Perhaps an updated version is out now?
Yep - Earls updated it and kept the same part number. The newer one looks much better, My advise is to keep the factory front mount oil cooler and fab some sort of brackets.
Yep - Earls updated it and kept the same part number. The newer one looks much better, My advise is to keep the factory front mount oil cooler and fab some sort of brackets.
Because of the cost or effectiveness? I already ordered the OC... so honestly if I have to get the thermostat and a couple more fittings I'm not worried about it. Plus a shiney FMOC will look great under my new aluminum radiator.
06-24-19, 03:33 PM
