When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Glad to see this website still around. Ive been gone since 2004 when I sold my RX7. Well I'm back with a new project and Ive attached some photos of the car I was just gifted yesterday. Take a look at those KM's Car has been sitting for 25yrs. Look forward to any advice and will post journey of my rebuild.
I chucked the louvers! they were missing a blade. I like the look without it. Got into the gas tank yesterday and fuel pump looked mint and drained 20yr old gas using the fuel pump splice technique. Fuel and pump wont be issue. Went into air filter area and found a mice nest in air filter. Is there easy method to test MAF sensor before trying to start this thing? I turned motor by hand and seemed to move fairly free. Should I MMO cylinders? Clutch pedal next, hard as a rock
Well changed oil.. put a little mmo in each cylinder. New wires, new battery. Daughter watch as I attempted first start…. Nada.. simple click and nothing. Going to attempt starter manually next. Really hoped she would fire
Did mmo trick… car starts then almost immediately dies. I’m by clutch pedal and I almost hear a click then it immediately dies. I don’t want to change plugs yet because of mmo. Any suggestions?
Did mmo trick… car starts then almost immediately dies. I’m by clutch pedal and I almost hear a click then it immediately dies. I don’t want to change plugs yet because of mmo. Any suggestions?
Ensure the green rectangular plug on the back of the water pump housing below the alternator is connected firmly.
Stand at the passenger fender with a flashlight, and lean over the alternator. It's on the back of the housing, pointing towards the rear of the car. Way down below the intake runners.
I thought I'd responded earlier this morning, but my response doesn't show up for some reason.
The connector is hard to see. If you stand over the passenger fender and use a flashlight to look straight down behind the water pump housing, you should see it pointing towards the back of the car. It's way down below the intake runner.
With the fuel pump active there should be fuel coming from there. Have you checked the fuel filter on the driver's side frame rail? It's accessible from above, but you'll find it easier to jack the car up and access from below.
Sault Ste. Marie, so I’m knee deep right now in the car. Took fuel rail off and was currently looking at the injectors. One seems to spray and one not so good. Maybe I should ship these out. How can I test fuel pressure regulator?
If you were closer to me I'd offer to take a look in-person, but I'm really far from Sault.
Getting the injectors cleaned seems like a logical step. After sitting for so long, you'll need that either way. It's weird that it had enough fuel to fire off though and not enough to run. Normally you'd either have no signs of life, or some sort of idle.
Testing the FPR requires that the entire system is assembled. You tee in a pressure gauge between the fuel filter and the inlet of the fuel rail. The FSM has a spec for it. You also compare with / without the vac hose attached.
Yes plugged in the MAF. I'm going to pull the other injectors and send the whole lot in. New clutch parts are on their way so might have to focus on that until injectors return. Im really hoping that I will not have to change clutch, sitting so long is this going to be inevitable? Also, I heard RC a good place to send injectors, any in Ontario?
I don't know anyone near you, but you could just put "fuel injector cleaning" into Google and see what comes up nearby.
The last time I had them cleaned it was by a local-ish guy in Vaughan. $90, one day turnaround, and included before / after flow-tests. I don't have his info anymore unfortunately.
Going to try Toronto injectors, $160 full service. I managed to remove intake today to get last injectors out. Spray lubed anything that moves. Any stuff I should look at/test while it’s out?
IMO the biggest thing is to replace the fuel line (make sure it's rated for EFI), check the pulsation damper, and replace the vacuum lines. Gaskets are a good idea, and you can use a vacuum pump to check the EGR and the double-throttle diaphragm. If you have the time, checking and servicing everything in there will save you a lot of time later. Removing the intake is a pain.
No, that usually means the little screw has backed out. If you pop the plastic cap off it is probably loose or entirely out.
I don't know enough about it to know whether putting the screw back is safe. IMO, get a banjo bolt and delete it. I wouldn't worry at all about it on an NA car.
05-11-23, 12:05 PM
Back from a long break!
