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Any idea what this beeping is. Also butterfly on throttle body Is super hard to push

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Old Oct 22, 2022 | 11:06 AM
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Any idea what this beeping is. Also butterfly on throttle body Is super hard to push

Hello all I have a 86 NA 107k miles. Sport model, did a custom exhuast kept the stock resonator. Had to trim the 5th 6th port pipe I welded it back into the stock piping. Car drives fine no issues or hesitation. The idle is a bit higher now and my butterfly seems to be really hard to close and open feels like it's gummed up or stuck sometimes when I rev all the way out won't close all the way. Also my idiot cluster popped out on itself but the beeping is worrying me even tho all the gauges read fine and all fluids are good. The beeping goes away when u drive the car and when I lower the idle don't know if that's causing the beeping or not. Any help would be appreciated!
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Old Oct 28, 2022 | 07:20 AM
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have you tried putting a little oil on the throttle body?
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Old Oct 28, 2022 | 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Brrraaap
have you tried putting a little oil on the throttle body?
Yep and it still went back to whwre it was keeps geting stuck pretyy sure becasue i took the split air pipe check valve off
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Old Oct 31, 2022 | 11:26 AM
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The beeping is almost certainly from the power steering computer. If I'm guessing, it might be because the computer sees the rpms are higher and that the TPS isn't at the idle position (because the throttle isn't closing) and expects a vehicle speed signal. The vehicle is stationary though, so the computer is confused and throwing an error code because it thinks the VSS is damaged.

When you actually start moving though, the computer sees the VSS signal and stops beeping. If I'm correct it should be a single beep that you're hearing (beep... Beep... Beep...).

Anyways, the problem with your throttle is mechanical. Has the cable been adjusted?
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Old Oct 31, 2022 | 11:44 AM
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It's worth mentioning to check the oil metering pump linkage. The rod can be built ped from its resting location and can easily bind, causing the throttle to bind and to stick. I would, while you're in there, check to make sure the omp rod is properly positioned and that it is not rubbing or dragging.
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Old Oct 31, 2022 | 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by mazdaverx713b
It's worth mentioning to check the oil metering pump linkage. The rod can be built ped from its resting location and can easily bind, causing the throttle to bind and to stick. I would, while you're in there, check to make sure the omp rod is properly positioned and that it is not rubbing or dragging.
Gonna delete the omp if im being utterly honest. The pump is fried and the washers leak. Did the same thing with my last fc plus I like the feeling of manually doing it that way I know it gets proper amount . Thank you for the advice !
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Old Oct 31, 2022 | 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by WondrousBread
The beeping is almost certainly from the power steering computer. If I'm guessing, it might be because the computer sees the rpms are higher and that the TPS isn't at the idle position (because the throttle isn't closing) and expects a vehicle speed signal. The vehicle is stationary though, so the computer is confused and throwing an error code because it thinks the VSS is damaged.

When you actually start moving though, the computer sees the VSS signal and stops beeping. If I'm correct it should be a single beep that you're hearing (beep... Beep... Beep...).

Anyways, the problem with your throttle is mechanical. Has the cable been adjusted?
No it hasnt yet. Haven't gotten to it yet unfortunately and the split air pipe I was reading on seems to maybe effect it. I cut the check valve out which I didn't mean to do I spruced a new one and gonna revert back to the stock cat because I still have the air pump and everything. Unless you guys know of a way to run catless and without the split pipe. But that effects the 5th and 6th ports to much so I would say probably leave it unless I get the rb presilencer?.
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Old Oct 31, 2022 | 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by spurs fan2
Gonna delete the omp if im being utterly honest. The pump is fried and the washers leak. Did the same thing with my last fc plus I like the feeling of manually doing it that way I know it gets proper amount . Thank you for the advice !
Also will what you were mentioning will it have any effect anymore when i delete the OMP?
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