88 na wont start
#1
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Thread Starter
88 na wont start
ok so ive been getting stumped trying to get this car to start.
It has been sitting for about 10 years, but engine only has about 21,000KMs on it since rebuild by reputable rotary mechanic.
Car was parked due to a blown water pump that my friend never got around to repairing. (long story),
so over a period of two weeks while waiting for parts to arrive, i added an ounce of MMO every two days to trailing plug hole and turned it over by hand 5 or 6 times to loosen any carbon and free up the seals.
Cleaned UIM and replaced gaskets, vac hoses, rad hoses, heater hoses, belts, etc old rubber, pulled out fuel pump and drained/cleaned tank, replaced spark plugs and plug wires, and used ohm meter as per FSM to test coils, CAS. Replaced all fluids, primed fuel system, and attempted to start it.
Cranks good, but doesnt start, and it flooded on me.
Performed (a few times now) complex unflood procedure, and began running down the list (spark, air, fuel, compression)
Found wasnt getting spark on #2 Trailing (this is actually when i replaced wires).
Checked injectors for leakage (not a drop)
Checked fuel pressure, and i discovered that when i prime the fuel im getting 40psi inline pressure without engine cranking over, and when i turn the key off my pressure drops off to 0 with 10 seconds. I checked pump head pressure and found im only getting 50psi (which is below spec), but the pumps check valve holds at around 40psi, so cant figure out why pressure is dropping so rapidly.
Checked water thermo sensor as per FSM, found it to be in perfect condition.
Checked compression, and found #1 chamber likely has a stuck Apex seal (as engine has sat for so long, was running, and is still basically new, and was properly maintained while in service), but #2 chamber has good even compression of about 90psi at 3000ft altitude. My thinking is this engine SHOULD start off that one chamber and hopefully free up that stuck seal on #1.
Now im thinking maybe bad ground off ECU, as tach only makes one tiny blip when i first try to crank, with no successive blips on tach.
Anything im missing, tips/tricks to try, and why the hell my fuel pressure drops off would be greatly appreciated
It has been sitting for about 10 years, but engine only has about 21,000KMs on it since rebuild by reputable rotary mechanic.
Car was parked due to a blown water pump that my friend never got around to repairing. (long story),
so over a period of two weeks while waiting for parts to arrive, i added an ounce of MMO every two days to trailing plug hole and turned it over by hand 5 or 6 times to loosen any carbon and free up the seals.
Cleaned UIM and replaced gaskets, vac hoses, rad hoses, heater hoses, belts, etc old rubber, pulled out fuel pump and drained/cleaned tank, replaced spark plugs and plug wires, and used ohm meter as per FSM to test coils, CAS. Replaced all fluids, primed fuel system, and attempted to start it.
Cranks good, but doesnt start, and it flooded on me.
Performed (a few times now) complex unflood procedure, and began running down the list (spark, air, fuel, compression)
Found wasnt getting spark on #2 Trailing (this is actually when i replaced wires).
Checked injectors for leakage (not a drop)
Checked fuel pressure, and i discovered that when i prime the fuel im getting 40psi inline pressure without engine cranking over, and when i turn the key off my pressure drops off to 0 with 10 seconds. I checked pump head pressure and found im only getting 50psi (which is below spec), but the pumps check valve holds at around 40psi, so cant figure out why pressure is dropping so rapidly.
Checked water thermo sensor as per FSM, found it to be in perfect condition.
Checked compression, and found #1 chamber likely has a stuck Apex seal (as engine has sat for so long, was running, and is still basically new, and was properly maintained while in service), but #2 chamber has good even compression of about 90psi at 3000ft altitude. My thinking is this engine SHOULD start off that one chamber and hopefully free up that stuck seal on #1.
Now im thinking maybe bad ground off ECU, as tach only makes one tiny blip when i first try to crank, with no successive blips on tach.
Anything im missing, tips/tricks to try, and why the hell my fuel pressure drops off would be greatly appreciated
#3
Rotary Freak
Fuel pump pressure drop off is normal. Try giving engine agood dose of engine oil down the inlet manifold 4 runners . You will have to lift the upper inlet manifold to do this. If engine nearly starts repeat oiling prosess and should start 2nt time
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yudaya
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
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09-30-08 03:44 PM