I've read dozens of posts on this problem and i've tried what i can and i still cant get my 7 to start.
everything seems to work, it is a fairly new battery and i'm fairly certain it has a decent charge. same with my close to new magnecore wires.
it just wont start

i've tried the unflooding technique (i.e. pulling the lower plugs and the egi and cranking) i did that a couple of times hoping to unflood but that didnt work.
i've checked my coils via the ohm method suggested in the haynes manual and they all seem to be getting the correct ohmage.

i'm at a loss
can anyone out there offer any suggestions
thank you

 

I am assuming you have a FI engine, cause your post does not indicate anything about the history of your car.

What did the car do up to the point it is now? Or has it ever ran?

Where is California are you?

Why do you think the engine is flooded? Are your spark plugs fuel fouled?

We can work with you but you have to give us more information about the history of you problem.

John

 

Make sure you've got spark. Have a buddy turn the engine while you hold the trailing/leading coil end of the wire ~1/2" away from the terminal. Make sure you're not grounded to the car, or you could get a nice zap. The better method is to just remove a spark plug and hold it aginst the engine.

Check fuel pressure/flow. Make sure all the sensors are hooked up, all the vacuum hoses are hooked up, and test all the sensors' resistances. Make sure to test the AFM.

Do a compression check. Use a normal gague but remove the valve core from it. Look for 3 even bumps on the gague. Alternatively, remove a trailing plug and listen for 3 even "pshhht" sounds. If they're not even, you've got a bad/stuck apex seal/side seal/corner seal. Lettting it soak in about 1-1/2 cans of PB blaster or ATF can sometimes help unstick them.

If everything checks out okay, try buying some new plugs; you wouldn't believe what bad plugs can do. If it still won't start, do the unflooding with some 10w40 or whatever mineral oil you've lying around (don't use ATF unless you REALLY have to; it isn't good for OCR rubbers). Use a stethescope to listen for clicking on the primary injectors (mounted to the engine UNDER the inake manifold) while cranking the engine. A long screwdriver works too, but be careful no to get tangled-up in those belts.

Lastly, have a friend push your car up to 30mph. Put it in 3rd or 4th gear, drop the clutch (with your friend sufficiently far back) and hope it starts. If your ECU is good, injectors are clicking, all the sensors work, you've got nice fuel pressure/flow, you've got spark, and you've got new spark plugs, the only other thing I can think of would be that you've blown an apex seal or some other internal damage.

 

I had many many problems getting my 88 TII to start. It just didn't sound right when it cranked over. There was just too much fuel in the engine to get any compression to start it.
I have a fuel pump cut off switch installed on mine, but you can just pull the EGI fuse when you try this if you don’t have one. I pulled the wires off the coil and turned the fuel pump off. There is a rod which runs from the throttle body on the front of the engine down to the metered oil pump. I assume that this is to add more oil at full throttle. I held it up and cranked the engine a few times. I hooked the spark plug wires back up and while holding this rod up tried to start it again and it fired up. I turned the fuel pump back on and started it again and let go of the rod. It was fine after that. If this works for you be prepared for a nice cloud of smoke while it burns off all the fuel and crap the has ended up in the engine and cats etc…