hey, the MAS from the 89-91 isnt much better. its a big plunger... and its tiny. like 2.25" wide, i think. ive read about getting an MAS from a 92-95 Mazda 929. its supposed to hook right in place of your current one. its got a 3" inlet instead. im planning on using one of those when i reistall my motor if i cant find a better solution.

also, i was planning on leavin the sleeves out too, but if Rob's sleeves are so good, i might use them. but the only thing is, if i remove the sleeves, i can lose the air pump, right? will it affect the intake at all? and what makes Robs sleeves so good?

 

If you know how I am with modding my car, you should know that I wouldnt just leave something to restrictive as the MAF's Mazda used. Im working on putting a Mustang MAF on my car. Once I finish it, I will be selling the electronics necessary to convert the signal. For those of you that dont know, Mustang MAF's are either 73 or 80 mm hot wire types. They flow very well, especially compared to the pathetic ones Mazda used.

 

mazdaspeed7-any idea when your gonna finish with that project?i did not know you where planning to "produce" a adapter,i will definately be interested.how many $'s are you thinki'n its gonna be?thanks
david
hmm....just realiced..you have a 89',dont u?i guess your adapter might not work for my 87'...

 

Good news, as soon as I finish mine, Im doing one for one of my friends with an 86 GXL. Cost, unless its a real PITA(which I doubt), it should be $100 or less. I dont know when I will be finished, but it shouldnt be more than a few weeks. My classes are over in a week and a half, so I will have even more time to work on it if I dont finish by then.

 

Ya I was looking at my VR6's MAS and there's nothing but a small sensor sticking out the rest is wide open. Whats up wih the trapdoors on ours ? I'd be into that mustang mod when your done.

 

what is this for? the 89-91, or the 86-88? i think they have completely different signals, dont they? anyways, im really intrested, post some pics of the completed project man!

 

Mines an 86 the metal MAS.
Actually Jeff "Woz" over at teamfc3s has re-wired an 89 style to work on his 86 he says its a big improvement.

 

Hey mazdapeed7, keep us up to date on that project. I'm realy interested.

As far as the stock sleeves goes, they make a hard 90* turn when they are in the open position. Anyone with more than 10 brain cells will know that this realy sucks for making power.

What the PR6S are, is a peice of C&C'd metal, fit into the stock sleeve. What it does is gentaly curve the fuel/air mixture into the combustion chamber. Don't quote me on this but i think Rob said it should be good for around 7-10hp...but he's out of town this weekend, so i can't bug him about it. Blake may know the details about it, because he's been talking to Rob about mass producing these i beleive.

CJ

 

I had the idea the other day that you could take a MAP ( manifold air pressure) sensor and make an adaptor to the stock mazda plug to the MAF. the basicly read the same thing just in reverse... sort of. Any ideas on that?

 

You cant run a MAP sensor without a computer that was designed for it. The electronics would have to be very complicated for it to work. If you were willing to put enough time/money into a MAP sensor, you should just buy a Haltech or Wolf3D, both of which use a MAP sensor instead of a MAF.

 

Mazdaspeed7-

Definitely keep us up to date. If you get everything to work successfully then I'm in without a doubt!

Thanks, Derek

derek_fullerx@hotmail.com

 

Heres where Im at now with the Mustang MAF. I made a circuit, but its not quite the right design. It isnt linear enough with amplifying the voltage. But even with it not being correct, Ive still had my car running and idling with NO codes. Drivability as bad due to the mixture being WAY off, but it still ran. On the little bit of driving I did do with it on, I noticed that the throttle response was improved greatly. Im really curious to see just much HP this will be worth.

If anybody missed it before, Im doing this for my 90 GTU. Once I finish mine, I will be doing one for an 86 GXL, so I will be selling the electronics for both series n/a's.

 

Hay mazdaspeed7. When you finish the conversion adapters for the 86-88s, I'm buying one. Infact, I call dibs on the first one. My e-mail address is rotorgoat@hotmail.com, let me know when you finish it.

My other question for you is, I saw how you said cutting the crush washers off the spark plugs will yield more power. You said there was plenty of room still and that you proved this on a 90 block. Would it be safe to assume that it would work just as safely on a 88?

Thanks man!

 

This thread seems to be asking how to build the ultimate N/A motor.

So far, people have been discussing the easy to fairly easy "bolt-on" type mods which yield pretty good HP numbers for an N/A.


We should also be discussing reliability mods.

One simple thing is the thermo-plug mod for the front of your e-shaft. You can also install the 3rd gen oil pressure regulator, for slightly higher oil pressure.

Many oil cooler lines burst without warning, so it would be a good idea to upgrade to s.s. lines as well.
An oil pan baffle from Mazdacomp or Mazdatrix/Racing beat can help you auto-x'rs or track people prevent pressure drop at high RPM.

A happy rotary engine is a cool rotary engine. Make sure your coolant systems are in top notch shape as well. It's a good idea to fluch the coolant system twice a year. When replacing the thermostat, use a factory Mazda one!!! THE AUTO PART STORE THERMOSTATS DO NOT CUT IT!! I went through three Stant thermostats in my AWD talon in less than a month!

And those of you with actual porting experience, I'd love to hear what magic you can work on the 6-port intakes.

I know that using a TII intermediate housing will help when rebuilding an engine because the ports are already bigger than the N/A's, even before starting to port!


Regards,
Shawn

 

If you would like a way to check without having a spare rotor housing, do it to one of the top plugs. If the plug is in fact too long, it will hit the wall before its all the way in. I attached a pic that explains why if the top is too long it wont mess anything up. The top hole is the trailing pulg and the bottom is the leading.

 

hey thanks for the info. So if the top one is ok, then the bottom should be ok too...or so it seems from the pic.

Thanks a lot man!

 

I am thinking about getting a 1990 GTU to have some fun with and drive while the TII is down. I figure with the following list of mods, I could defintely run low 14's, maybe high, high 13's on a stock ported motor.

-9.5 lb flywheel with ACT clutch
-pulleys
-tb mod
-RB header, presilencer, and Apex'i N1 single
-aeromotive external fuel pump, lines, fuel filter, and adjustable fuel pressure regulator
-stock primaries and 720 secondaries fooling the ECU with an s-afc (wideband tuning, EGT gauges, air-fuel of course)
-removed **** (EGR, air pump, ACV, cold start, charcoal canister, etc.)
- no ps, no a/c
- electric water pump
- fd alternator
- intake mounted and fed in fender... mustang trick... cold air, you bet!
- some minor porting and polishing of the intake manifold
- custom 6port actuation system
- ignition with dual coils, wires
- usual suspension **** so it can launch a *bit* better

Then the normal reliability mods: oil pressure regulator, good dyno tuning, alum rad, good compression.
Then, remove weight with some decent seats, convert to protected fuel cell where stock tank used to sit, etc.
And when all thats done, add a 50-75 hp shot of wet Nos, and drop to 13.5., and then up to street port and hit 13.3's.... Thats a fast NA.

What you guys think? I figure all thats possible, and still wind up with a car thats somewhat reliable, a good daily driver, gets better gas mileage then my t2, and can still whoop on the guys at the lights...
Sean Cathcart

 

I would have recommend for you to stay away from the electric waterpump. It may suffice for drag racing, but I seriously doubt it could cool a rotary efficiently enough for street use.

Hate to burst your bubble again, but you would have to be REALLY creative to get an air filter in the fender. There just isnt room.

If you have been looking into the suspension, you should know that you should keep the rear springrate the same. The stock springs are 110 lb/inch on the back. You can use aftermarket coilover springs, but dont go more than 20% above stock spring rate if you dont want lots of wheel hop. The good news though is that the stock springs will work with coilovers.

 

A really good upgrade is to replace the tranny for a TII tranny. However it will be somewhat costly and be ready to also replace the cluth,flywheel,starter,and driveshaft which are components of TII set up. If you have a little more money left you might as well upgrade to a light flywheel,and heavier pressure clutch.
If you get these components will be able to pull away from most convensional FCs.
Frank

 

Already done that. Have a TII diff. with 4:30 gears from Mazdatrix as well. . .

 

The first big run is at the machine shop as we speak. I've seen a sample and it looks really good! Price is higher than he would like, due to multiple CNC operations that require manual repositioning. It looks like they will be around $49 per set, plus core ($15, which would be refunded when you send in your old set) and shipping. He was shooting for a much lower price, but the CNC program is just too complex to make production that economical. Regardless, they are still a good deal, especially when you consider the time and money Rob invested in developing the product. Here's a sneak peek:



If you are interested, contact Pineapple Racing at (503) 233-3878 or email Rob at rob@pineappleracing.com .

 

www.Atkinsrotary.com sells supercharger kits, they also have everything to stick with FI as well, I spoke to them about it before.

 

There are at least a couple guys on the street who run electric water pumps... not rx7's mind you.... I would have thought an electric water pump would have cooled better. As far as I know, there is an optimum speed of which water pumps spin at of which to acheive maximum coolant flow without cavitation of the water pump.
So, if you say, wired the pump to run at the speed it runs at 5000 rpms, whouldn't it cool better? High flow of coolant, no water pump cavitation?
Hadn't yet looked at the fenderwell trick yet, but knew it worked well for other cars...
Just thinking about trying some new tricks...
As for suspension, I was thinking adjustable struts w/ coilovers, testing with different spring rates, and going with usual strut tower bars, poly bushings, and some tighter sway bars with adjustable endlinks.

 

*cough**cough*

Can't let such a great N/A thread die... I assume mazdaspeed7 has updated on the MAF on a different thread?

 

Um, still no luck with the power supply. If anybody knows how to make a dual-polarity power supply off 12VDC car electrical system, please PM me so I can move forward.