pp13bnos

iTrader: (1)

My car does'nt seem to run rich. The only reason i swapped it out, was because the old fuel pump would'nt hold its pressure. So everytime i shut it off, it would bleed all the pressure back, thus making it hard to start. A buddy of mine (Thanks TurboFB) had upgraded his turbo car to a comso pump, so i bought the old one.

One reason why my car might not seem to idle rich, is because i have a high flow cat that is suppose to support over 600hp.

CJ

mazdaspeed7

The TII fuel pump wont make you run too ich at idle. The fuel pressure at idle stays basically the same. The TII furl pump makes itself useful once the duty cycle starts going up on the injectors. It is less likely to suffer from a pressure drop as the duty cycle of the injectors goes up.


Fuzzi, your injectors will be fine with the TII fuel pump. If you want the most out of it, get a fuel pressure regulator so you can raise the pressure and get more fuel if necessary.

rx7_turbo2

I am not an n/a guy but my concerns would be as follows:

Running higher power means that you will be running leaner. Only way to tell how lean is with a gauge, so do yourself a favour and buy an A/F gauge. Upgrading the pump will provide more fuel to the engine but might be causing the injectors to work to hard, if the injector duty is maxxed out you might lock the injectors, something you dont want to do.

I think the only real way to run efficiently and safely is to upgrade both the fuel pump and the injectors and get a S-AFC or something else that can control the fuel. Guy's pop their motors on this forum all the time by running higher than stock power and not upgrading the fuel system. I say play it safe and spend the extra $$$ it will benefit you in the long run. As a note did he mention something about a Wolf 3D? I think that might be over kill in an n/a.

pp13bnos

iTrader: (1)

You usually don't kill n/a motors by detination. Yes, it does happen, but in my experience, the motor will either cut out completly, or start to detonate. Even if you're realy slow to get off of the throttle under pinging conditions, there is'nt usually any damage, other than a near hart attack for the driver.

But i do agree, that the wolf system is a bit much for a n/a. I was thinking somewhere along the lines of a motec system.
(I'm kidding.)

I'd do all the bolt-ons, then when its time, have the motor ported.

CJ

Drakk0r

Ok, I have a few questions about the Carb setup... Does the kit include everything you need? And what does it enable you to remove? You swap the manifolds, I know... But can you then yank all the computer **** that controled your FI system? What else can go? I'd seriously consider a carb setup if it really offers 30-40hp. Cheaper than a turbo and would offer almost the same amount of power.. All the while being safer on the engine.. More info, please

PaulC

So how much can someone actually expect to get out of an NA with all or most of the mods listed in this thread? Any Ideas? 230-250hp?

Ryde _Or_Die

I would just give Racing Beat a call. They are working on a Holley setup I think right now. They can answer any questions you have.

Rx7-88na

OK Fellas after reading this post I wanna upgrade my fuel pump b/c it sounds like my car has a problem with it -- now where would I find TII fuel pump?

mazdaspeed7

I think 240 hp is about as mugh hp as you could possibly get on the stock ports. That is with EVERY mod possible. Street port could add maybe 30 hp to that, if the porter really knows what they are doing. This might be a little high, but I have no real proof to base this on. If anyone disagrees, you can keep it to yourself unless you can show me proof otherwise.

Audiofight

Hey. I disagree!

j/k :p

I would love to see my N/A reach over 200 hp

RIght now, I am considering going to the turbo side. I will know definitely by Friday.

This thread is becoming a wonderful source of information.

I appreciate the comments on the ECU. The price scares me, but so does most of the other mods and body kit pricing that I am looking at. I am cheapskate at heart, but will never buy second-rate equipment. I will go w/o before replacing with crap.

pp13bnos

iTrader: (1)

E-mail Rob golden at Pineapple Racing.

Ask him how much hp a stock port 89 motor will make. I allready know, because i've had this conversation with him a couple times.

With that said, i had a street ported 86 motor in my 74 repu for awhile. It was a massive street port. The motor idled at 1,400rpms with a slow, brap, brap, brap sound. It basically had the same port timing as a peripheral engine. The motor dyno'd out just over 190hp. Wich came out to right around 220+hp@ the flywheel. The motor had 2-2" manderl bent exaust, into 2 racing beat presilcers, then into two Turbo walkers. So the exaust never collected at all. For intake i had a 48mm Dellorto, with a RB upper intake, and a ported lower manifold. There was no 6 ports or anything along that lines. Rob will verify all this.

There is'nt enough port timing in a stock port engine, to even make close to 240hp, without forced induction. I think that before anyone starts making hp claims, that they should have some dyno sheets to prove it. Simple as that. The only claims that i make are ones that my very well know engine builder tells me. And that is, my car should make around 200hp.

I hope i did'nt offend anyone, but i just don't agree.

CJ

Felix Wankel

Don't buy a carb from Mazdaracing! My carb that I bought from them was only THREE WEEKS late, and came with NO hardware, or jets! And the ******* intake manifold casting is horribly rough. Buy it from Mazdatrix, I wish I had now.

I had the fuel pump on my old 88 NA rewired, 10 ga wire from the battery, to a switch (car had low compression), to the pump.

My car ran a 10 flat in the 1/8 (around 15.5 in the 1/4) with intake, header, exhaust, no 6 ports, no smog stuff, low compression, bald tires, bad struts, and broken rear diff mounts. I had like a 2.40 60'

PaulC

OK ya'll is 200 a fesible number and keep it sane enough to drive everyday?

mazdaspeed7

If I am not mistaken, that motor was originally a 4 port motor, corect? The 4 port motors have less overall port timing and area than the 6 port motors. The intake closes much later on the 6 port motors than it does on a 4 port motor. I would assume that ported motor didnt open much earlier than the 6 port, from it being street ported and not bridged.

From what I have seen, carbed engines do not make quite as much hp as F.I. engines, and are much less driveable. Also you can get a better idle at a lower RPM due to better air/fuel mixture afforded by F.I.

Does anyone have a link to Paul Yaw's website? He has a list of the opening and closing(degrees of port duration) of the different ports on rotary engines

pp13bnos

iTrader: (1)

No the motor was not a 4 port engine. It was a 6 port 86 Rx-7 engine. CJ

mazdaspeed7

I just noticed that. Oh well.

FPrep2ndGenRX7

//personal.riverusers.com/~yawpower/

I think this is the correct address for Yawpower.

Mykl

A couple things...

I've noticed a lack of talk involving aftermarket ECU setups, like a Wolf or Haltech. Somebody said something about overkill, but don't these systems give you full control over timing and fuel mixture @ any RPM?

I would think that having total control over the timing and fuel mixture would be extremely beneficial. Also a trick feature on the Haltech is that you can control the timing between when the leading and trailing plugs fire, meaning that you can have them both fire at the same time or you can adjust the trailing whenever you choose.

If you're gonna port an n/a why not go with a mild bridgeport?

TriangleMan

Hey, can someone get that pic of the pressure areas on the t2 hood? I'd be interested to see that...

Mykl

I think this is the one they were refering to...

pp13bnos

iTrader: (1)

The reason i whent street port was because i wanted something that had a close as possiable stock idle. Nothing that whent brap, brap, brap.

I think that the reason not many n/a guys don't go halteck, motec, wolf, is because of the cost. (This is just my opinion.) Anyone who will drop 1200-2.5k on a ecu, might as well go turbo. You'll make way more power with a T2 transplant, if you do things corretly.

I'm not saying it would'nt be nice. But i cant justify the hp vs. $$.

CJ

PaulC

bump

the_glass_man

iTrader: (2)

I'm thinking about going huge street port, Haltech high compression rotors, etc... Is a Haltech going over board?

Poindexter10thae

iTrader: (2)

ok here is the beef. You are only removing the upper manifold and fuel injectors(parts list will follow). I have all my computer **** still intact and working because it controls the ignition system. If you want to yank the computer you will have to get a distributor in place of the CAS, and switch to a conventional coil(this ignition conversion will put you in the poorhouse). here is the parts list considering that you are going to leave the computer and stock ignition

1. carb kit(carbs,manifolds, linkage, filters)
2. LOW pressure fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator(stock will not work and the high pressure pump will ruin the carb)
3. Primary Injector plugs. Exactly what it sounds like, plugs the primary injector holes
4 You MUST have free flowing exhaust. A header is a absolute must.
5. All required hosing and such

Ryde _Or_Die

Do you have to get a low pressure fuel pump and all the fuel equipment? Could you just run an S-AFC to control what you have?