It's Finally Here
01-27-03, 04:56 PM
#26
Originally posted by fdracer
whose gonna make your intake/exhaust manifolds?
whose gonna make your intake/exhaust manifolds?
01-27-03, 05:27 PM
#27
The dry sump system is from an american manufacturer, not Mazda. Not sure of the company name. I'm told this is a far superior system and for less money. All Internal gearing and piping. Only hookups are in, out, scavange and they accomodate -AN fittings. Contact Rob @ Pineapple for more info, but have a good 1/2 hour or more, as he is full of good information and is very good at sharing it.
01-27-03, 10:05 PM
#29
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Originally posted by RX-Heven
I will probably make my own exhaust manifold, unless MVA comes out with one that is reasonably priced unlike the 1200 or so dollars they have initally quoted. However, I do have more money than time at this point....
I will probably make my own exhaust manifold, unless MVA comes out with one that is reasonably priced unlike the 1200 or so dollars they have initally quoted. However, I do have more money than time at this point....
mike
01-28-03, 07:54 AM
#30
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I thought that looked familiar! Congratulations!!! I have been watching your engine at Pineapple for several weeks. I was there the day the dry sump plate came in. What a beautiful piece of work. Now it's my turn!!! My 3Rotor will be going back together here shortly, then Corksport will be re-installing it (into my 10th Anni also). I am also going with new cermachromed FD housings, ceramics, a small street port, stage 3 oil mods, and the 5 year deal. Rob is GREAT - and knows what he is doing. Again, Congrats!
01-28-03, 07:52 PM
#34
Here are some profile shots of the sump cover. The red plugs cover, starting from the top and going clockwise; oulet, scavange, inlet. I checked out the schematic for the MazdaComp unit and the appear very similiar at first glance. But looking closer there are some major differences.
01-28-03, 10:47 PM
#36
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man thats a nice motor 
, lemme know if you need anything
mike
, lemme know if you need anythingmike
01-29-03, 04:53 PM
#37
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Well, its your motor. I'd prefer to have one a bit more bullet proof (not ceramic seals). One instance of ping and say goodbye to the motor... Yes, they do wear less on the housings, but when they break, its still not pretty... They ARE fragile.
But, what's done is done, and I hope it works out for you.
But, what's done is done, and I hope it works out for you.
01-29-03, 07:59 PM
#38
Originally posted by Kurgan
Well, its your motor. I'd prefer to have one a bit more bullet proof (not ceramic seals). One instance of ping and say goodbye to the motor... Yes, they do wear less on the housings, but when they break, its still not pretty... They ARE fragile.
But, what's done is done, and I hope it works out for you.
Well, its your motor. I'd prefer to have one a bit more bullet proof (not ceramic seals). One instance of ping and say goodbye to the motor... Yes, they do wear less on the housings, but when they break, its still not pretty... They ARE fragile.
But, what's done is done, and I hope it works out for you.
I will e-mail you some info.
This engine is as bulletproof as can be without having gone with a custom e-shaft and extra dowelling. Dowelling was not really necessary because this is a later series engine that is already reinforced around the dowells plus the e-shaft is better. Not to mention the 3/4"sump plate drastically reduces torsional flex.
01-29-03, 11:43 PM
#39
Originally posted by RX-Heven
This engine is as bulletproof as can be without having gone with a custom e-shaft and extra dowelling. Dowelling was not really necessary because this is a later series engine that is already reinforced around the dowells plus the e-shaft is better.
This engine is as bulletproof as can be without having gone with a custom e-shaft and extra dowelling. Dowelling was not really necessary because this is a later series engine that is already reinforced around the dowells plus the e-shaft is better.
If thats the case, what year cosmo did the engine come from? Did you get it from corksport?
01-30-03, 12:22 AM
#40
Check this thread out for differences.
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=148711
I don't know how accurate it is, but many people seem to agree. As for what year Cosmo, how the hell do I really know. Besides, Rob had more than one 20b on hand to compare with and put to rest my concerns. Production #B721.
I think Pineapple got the engine from corksport since it is practically right down the road. Don't see what difference that makes, except that I paid too much.
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=148711
I don't know how accurate it is, but many people seem to agree. As for what year Cosmo, how the hell do I really know. Besides, Rob had more than one 20b on hand to compare with and put to rest my concerns. Production #B721.
I think Pineapple got the engine from corksport since it is practically right down the road. Don't see what difference that makes, except that I paid too much.
01-30-03, 09:08 PM
#41
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Originally posted by RX-Heven
Close up of dry sump front cover. Apparently this is not the MazdaComp unit, but a US company that I'm told is less expensive and better (go figure). Internal gear driven oil pump. Will be running remote oil filters and dual oil coolers, one under each headlight. Should help keep this pig cool
Close up of dry sump front cover. Apparently this is not the MazdaComp unit, but a US company that I'm told is less expensive and better (go figure). Internal gear driven oil pump. Will be running remote oil filters and dual oil coolers, one under each headlight. Should help keep this pig cool
What brand are the ceramic seals?
Dual oil coolers under the headlighs is my back-up plan if I run into cooling problems with mine. Make sure you drive carefully, though. A friend of mine did this with his FD, and one of his coolers tore off when he went over a curb at Daytona, and his engine blew.
01-31-03, 11:33 PM
#42
Originally posted by Evil Aviator
What about the water pump?
What about the water pump?
Will stick the engine/tranny in tomorrow and start the SLOW process of fitting everything in there. I'm hoping with the sump plate that I can lower the engine some, but will have to wait till tomorrow to find out.
Originally posted by Evil Aviator
What brand are the ceramic seals?
What brand are the ceramic seals?
Here is a good discussion thread about apex seals, a little old but still applies.
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/apex_seals.html
Originally posted by Evil Aviator
Dual oil coolers under the headlighs is my back-up plan if I run into cooling problems with mine. Make sure you drive carefully, though. A friend of mine did this with his FD, and one of his coolers tore off when he went over a curb at Daytona, and his engine blew.
Dual oil coolers under the headlighs is my back-up plan if I run into cooling problems with mine. Make sure you drive carefully, though. A friend of mine did this with his FD, and one of his coolers tore off when he went over a curb at Daytona, and his engine blew.
Last edited by RX-Heven; 01-31-03 at 11:36 PM.
02-01-03, 12:30 AM
#43
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Originally posted by RX-Heven
Water pump is an aluminum gxl (i think) unit. I don't want to use the dual t-stat setup. I have it just in case that is my last option to help keep it cool. Will stick the engine/tranny in tomorrow and start the SLOW process of fitting everything in there. I'm hoping with the sump plate that I can lower the engine some, but will have to wait till tomorrow to find out.
Water pump is an aluminum gxl (i think) unit. I don't want to use the dual t-stat setup. I have it just in case that is my last option to help keep it cool. Will stick the engine/tranny in tomorrow and start the SLOW process of fitting everything in there. I'm hoping with the sump plate that I can lower the engine some, but will have to wait till tomorrow to find out.
So a stock 13B water pump will work with that dry sump? I kept the 20B water pump because I was concerned about using a 1.3L water pump on a 2.0L engine.
Originally posted by RX-Heven
The apex seals are Ianetti
The apex seals are Ianetti
Originally posted by RX-Heven
That sucks, I'm afraid of that also. But thats what gauges with big fat bright warning lights are for. Just because you loose oil pressure momentarily before 'hopefully' shutdown, doesn't mean you will blow the engine. But if you stay in it....
That sucks, I'm afraid of that also. But thats what gauges with big fat bright warning lights are for. Just because you loose oil pressure momentarily before 'hopefully' shutdown, doesn't mean you will blow the engine. But if you stay in it....
I'm using SPA gauges which have user-defined warning lights AND outputs for larger lamps. You will not know when to shut down if you don't see the problem. My friend didn't shut down, and that's why the engine blew.
02-02-03, 05:37 PM
#44
Originally posted by Evil Aviator
So a stock 13B water pump will work with that dry sump?
So a stock 13B water pump will work with that dry sump?
Originally posted by Evil Aviator
Unlike others on this forum who seem to listen to the teenage drag racers more than the pros, I understand the value of Dr. Iannetti's seals.
Unlike others on this forum who seem to listen to the teenage drag racers more than the pros, I understand the value of Dr. Iannetti's seals.
Last edited by RX-Heven; 02-02-03 at 05:41 PM.
02-02-03, 06:02 PM
#45
Originally posted by Evil Aviator
The stock 20B pan hits on the front ridge where the oil pickup is. You don't have that ridge anymore, so you should be able to lower your engine by another inch or more.
The stock 20B pan hits on the front ridge where the oil pickup is. You don't have that ridge anymore, so you should be able to lower your engine by another inch or more.
Anyone interested in some K2RD 20b mounts for $250.
02-02-03, 06:25 PM
#47
This pic shows how far (almost 6" exactly) the engine (with the leading edge of the bottom of the dry sump system to the centerline of the steering rack as refence points) sits in front of the center of the steering rack. Moving the engine back 3" would locate the entire front housing (steel, duh) behind the rack centerline. Only the dry sump system (aluminum of course) would extend beyond that point essentially maintaining the original mid engine setup. At least I'll keep telling myself that.
Last edited by RX-Heven; 02-02-03 at 06:41 PM.
02-02-03, 06:45 PM
#48
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Originally posted by RX-Heven
Just about any water pump will fit with the dry sump system. Of course the problem comes up with what pulleys to use, but I guess that is no different than normal. I would love to hear the combos people are using who are running different pumps. What was the setup on the K2RD car? I would love to do that.
Just about any water pump will fit with the dry sump system. Of course the problem comes up with what pulleys to use, but I guess that is no different than normal. I would love to hear the combos people are using who are running different pumps. What was the setup on the K2RD car? I would love to do that.
mike
