I will probably make my own exhaust manifold, unless MVA comes out with one that is reasonably priced unlike the 1200 or so dollars they have initally quoted. However, I do have more money than time at this point....

 

The dry sump system is from an american manufacturer, not Mazda. Not sure of the company name. I'm told this is a far superior system and for less money. All Internal gearing and piping. Only hookups are in, out, scavange and they accomodate -AN fittings. Contact Rob @ Pineapple for more info, but have a good 1/2 hour or more, as he is full of good information and is very good at sharing it.

 

Here are the labeled connections

 

i was thinking about having k2rd make a manifold, alex is an excellent welder

mike

 

I thought that looked familiar! Congratulations!!! I have been watching your engine at Pineapple for several weeks. I was there the day the dry sump plate came in. What a beautiful piece of work. Now it's my turn!!! My 3Rotor will be going back together here shortly, then Corksport will be re-installing it (into my 10th Anni also). I am also going with new cermachromed FD housings, ceramics, a small street port, stage 3 oil mods, and the 5 year deal. Rob is GREAT - and knows what he is doing. Again, Congrats!

 

I just love that engine. Congrats and keep us abreast of the project progress

 

does your dry sump front cover have the hole on the right for the turbo oil scavenge

 

 

Here are some profile shots of the sump cover. The red plugs cover, starting from the top and going clockwise; oulet, scavange, inlet. I checked out the schematic for the MazdaComp unit and the appear very similiar at first glance. But looking closer there are some major differences.

 

Progress will be VERY slow since I'm doing the majority of the work myself and I have limited free time. But engine w/TII tranny as a plug will go in this weekend.

 

man thats a nice motor , lemme know if you need anything

mike

 

Well, its your motor. I'd prefer to have one a bit more bullet proof (not ceramic seals). One instance of ping and say goodbye to the motor... Yes, they do wear less on the housings, but when they break, its still not pretty... They ARE fragile.

But, what's done is done, and I hope it works out for you.

 

Uh, wrong, ceramics are stronger than steel in EVERY aspect which means they will even resist pinging better. Ask any experienced rotary engine builder. However, when one does go, say goodbye to whatever lies in it's path, because all will be rendered useless. Why is that, because they are stonger and are less likely to crumble and deform than steel, meaning steel will give way to the ceramics on its way out/around the engine upon failure. Either way would be time for a rebuild.
I will e-mail you some info.
This engine is as bulletproof as can be without having gone with a custom e-shaft and extra dowelling. Dowelling was not really necessary because this is a later series engine that is already reinforced around the dowells plus the e-shaft is better. Not to mention the 3/4"sump plate drastically reduces torsional flex.

 

If thats the case, what year cosmo did the engine come from? Did you get it from corksport?

 

Check this thread out for differences.
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=148711
I don't know how accurate it is, but many people seem to agree. As for what year Cosmo, how the hell do I really know. Besides, Rob had more than one 20b on hand to compare with and put to rest my concerns. Production #B721.
I think Pineapple got the engine from corksport since it is practically right down the road. Don't see what difference that makes, except that I paid too much.

 

What about the water pump?

What brand are the ceramic seals?

Dual oil coolers under the headlighs is my back-up plan if I run into cooling problems with mine. Make sure you drive carefully, though. A friend of mine did this with his FD, and one of his coolers tore off when he went over a curb at Daytona, and his engine blew.

 

Water pump is an aluminum gxl (i think) unit. I don't want to use the dual t-stat setup. I have it just in case that is my last option to help keep it cool.
Will stick the engine/tranny in tomorrow and start the SLOW process of fitting everything in there. I'm hoping with the sump plate that I can lower the engine some, but will have to wait till tomorrow to find out.
The apex seals are Ianetti
Here is a good discussion thread about apex seals, a little old but still applies.
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/apex_seals.html
That sucks, I'm afraid of that also. But thats what gauges with big fat bright warning lights are for. Just because you loose oil pressure momentarily before 'hopefully' shutdown, doesn't mean you will blow the engine. But if you stay in it....

 

The stock 20B pan hits on the front ridge where the oil pickup is. You don't have that ridge anymore, so you should be able to lower your engine by another inch or more.

So a stock 13B water pump will work with that dry sump? I kept the 20B water pump because I was concerned about using a 1.3L water pump on a 2.0L engine.

Unlike others on this forum who seem to listen to the teenage drag racers more than the pros, I understand the value of Dr. Iannetti's seals.

Don't worry about the gauges, you need the lights. I'm using SPA gauges which have user-defined warning lights AND outputs for larger lamps. You will not know when to shut down if you don't see the problem. My friend didn't shut down, and that's why the engine blew.

 

Just about any water pump will fit with the dry sump system. Of course the problem comes up with what pulleys to use, but I guess that is no different than normal. I would love to hear the combos people are using who are running different pumps. What was the setup on the K2RD car? I would love to do that.

 

Well I got the engine and TII tranny (no clutch/flywheel, as a plug only) in today. I'm impressed with the K2RD mounts, they fit perfect. I have 3/4" clearance between the bottom of the sump plate and the top of the steering rack mount (with the lip ground down flush). I may have a small section 1"x1--1/2" of the sump plate milled out dout 3/8" deep. This will allow the location of the engine 1" lower which in turn will allow it to be moved 3" back. Haven't decided if this is what I'll do but I'm sure tempted.
Anyone interested in some K2RD 20b mounts for $250.

 

Engine in the car, drivers side.

 

This pic shows how far (almost 6" exactly) the engine (with the leading edge of the bottom of the dry sump system to the centerline of the steering rack as refence points) sits in front of the center of the steering rack. Moving the engine back 3" would locate the entire front housing (steel, duh) behind the rack centerline. Only the dry sump system (aluminum of course) would extend beyond that point essentially maintaining the original mid engine setup. At least I'll keep telling myself that.

 

paul is running an fc water pump on his 20b, we have the same setup except i kept the 20b pump, and his runs hotter. if you have a big fan and a nice ducted radiator it should be ok with either one

mike

 

Everything is sooo clean! I havent seen such shiney things on a car in a long time.

 

it will never run, I know you.