To get in and get it running basics

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Old Sep 13, 2004 | 05:12 PM
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To get in and get it running basics

Ok what is needed to get the motor in a fd and get it running.. just the basics.. I know a 20blong block, and subframe. Already got the radiator and oil coolers it needs to run safely.. Do you need a aftermarket ecu for sure or can it run on the stock ecu at all. Give me a list of what is needed.

Matt
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Old Sep 14, 2004 | 12:08 PM
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ecu is a must , some kind of bumpsteer fixer (spindle or tie rod bushings) fuel....lots of it , patience , flywheel and clutch.....there is more but those you will have to fab youreself
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Old Sep 14, 2004 | 03:27 PM
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motor=5000 with rebuilt (I think this is correct)
ECU=1400
subframe with bumpsteer corection=1700
fuel system=1500 tops
fly wheel + clutch=900
radiator+intercooler no more than 1500
so why people say it cost like 25k-35k for swap?
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Old Sep 14, 2004 | 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by hondasr4kids
motor=5000 with rebuilt (I think this is correct)
ECU=1400
subframe with bumpsteer corection=1700
fuel system=1500 tops
fly wheel + clutch=900
radiator+intercooler no more than 1500
so why people say it cost like 25k-35k for swap?
do it and find out ,doing everything myself it ran me about ~18k youre prices are a bit low ,i can understand why they would charge 25 to 35 though its a lot of work and also there is a lot of stuff you have to fab thats unique to youre swap , i was going to make a kit that supplies everithing you need for this (including) all the fabbed stuff , but i believe there isnt enough intrest for this
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Old Sep 14, 2004 | 06:44 PM
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motor=5000 with rebuilt (I think this is correct)
ECU=1400-microtech from the RX-7 store
subframe with bumpsteer corection=1700- from a forum member that I was looking up
fuel system=1500 -lets say 850s all around home made fuel rail + 250 for fuel pump
fly wheel + clutch=900
radiator+intercooler no more than 1500 I can do the welding
+ what ever on tunning and little crap that you need.

so why people say it cost like 25k-35k for swap?

I'm not arguing about it I just want to know exacly what's involve. Sorry for been ano but I'm really considering this since I have a LARGE sum of cash coming my way and I don't want to pay some one to do it. The only thing I planned on upgrading the turbos to a single. Does anyone make a manifold for a single for this motor?
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Old Sep 14, 2004 | 08:25 PM
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Don't forget your turbine setup. If you use the stockers or go with a big single your going to be paying some cash. Your going to have to have a custom down pipe and some intercooler pipping as well. A single single turbo setup would be pretty spendy. Manifold $1k, turbine $1k, and a good wastegate $500. Also it depends on what computer you run. You can spend form $1200-$6,000 on a good computer. I've never done it myself but it sounds like for a bare minmum install it doesn't really cost a whole lot. But there are always the unexpected things.

-Destin
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Old Sep 14, 2004 | 11:51 PM
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Yea, don't forget about the other stuff that kills you like bigger (read: wider) tires plus the rims to go with them. you'd be amazed at how fast stuff adds up. you'll need suspension to handle the power, plus a good flowing exhaust. Also, you will most likely have to pay someone to tune it too...thats my look on it...
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Old Sep 15, 2004 | 12:02 AM
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I have the accompanied suspension, tire, intercooerl, rad, clutch/flywheel, oil cooler stuff already. The only thing I can see needing would be:

20b long block
sub frame
ecu
custom dp and pipe going to ic.

I would run stock turbos at 8psi, how that equates to 20k i dont know.
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Old Sep 15, 2004 | 12:57 AM
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I think most people have such a high cost cuz they dont use the stock turbos. Im not trying to be an ***, or flame you, but why use the stock turbines at all? much less at 8 psi? you can easily get that kind of power from a 2 rotor, even stock ports. a streetported 2 rotor can easily almost double what the stock 20B will make at 8 psi with the stock turbines....is it for the bling? if so, thats cool too...just alot of work and Fabbing for bling blang!
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Old Sep 15, 2004 | 06:57 AM
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Up until a week ago I was suggesting people just go with a 13b if your shooting for low power but then it dawned on me that the 20b makes a good bit more torque which is nice to have on tap with more to spare if necessary.

-Destin
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Old Sep 15, 2004 | 10:45 AM
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Id use the 20b stock turbos @ 8psi for the following reasons... Very streetable reliable power.. At 8 Psi im at around what 325hp? 13bs have to work to make what hte 20b would do effortlessly.. torque.. ohya torque.. lots not to mention the more grunty noise of the 20b compared to 13b.
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Old Sep 15, 2004 | 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by sillbeer
Don't forget your turbine setup. If you use the stockers or go with a big single your going to be paying some cash. Your going to have to have a custom down pipe and some intercooler pipping as well. A single single turbo setup would be pretty spendy. Manifold $1k, turbine $1k, and a good wastegate $500. Also it depends on what computer you run. You can spend form $1200-$6,000 on a good computer. I've never done it myself but it sounds like for a bare minmum install it doesn't really cost a whole lot. But there are always the unexpected things.

-Destin
1k for a manifold? Man if you knew how much it cost to make a manifold you would die. I don't have the skill to make a manifold but I know people that do. So I can cut cost there. I would like to use a T-78 turbo on it and now on days those are not to expensive but the fuel for that is.

I'm starting to see where all adds up, but mostly is on labor, there would be some much time involve on labor that you won't have time for nothing else.

Last edited by MR_Rick; Sep 15, 2004 at 11:08 AM.
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Old Sep 15, 2004 | 11:44 AM
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reliable and cheap is not fast
fast and reliable is not cheap
cheap and fast is not reliable

Keep that in mind when building your car.
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Old Sep 15, 2004 | 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by hondasr4kids
1k for a manifold? Man if you knew how much it cost to make a manifold you would die. I don't have the skill to make a manifold but I know people that do. So I can cut cost there. I would like to use a T-78 turbo on it and now on days those are not to expensive but the fuel for that is.

I'm starting to see where all adds up, but mostly is on labor, there would be some much time involve on labor that you won't have time for nothing else.
that t-78 (if its a greddy ) probably wont cut it , and the manifolds for the 20b`s are expensive keep in mind , not only do you have an extra runner (more material , more complexity) youre better off using a high grade material 321ss instead of 304 ss and have it tig welded , 20b`s run real hot , i chose the 321 ss and its more expensive , i own a muffler shop so i can make pretty much anything in exhaust (i have all the equipment) and it still was more expensive than a 2 rotor setup , like someone noted above its the little things that get you in the end , clamps , radiator neck adapter etc , fuel rails , that kind of crap , not to mention someone said tires ...........very very true , 285 or 295 at the least you will spin these like there is no tomorrow imagine a set of 245`s
remember i am not beeing an *** , just sharing my experience thats all , i think its great that more people are doing this , 20b rx7`s to me are the ultimate road machine
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Old Sep 15, 2004 | 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by hondasr4kids
motor=5000 with rebuilt (I think this is correct)
ECU=1400
subframe with bumpsteer corection=1700
fuel system=1500 tops
fly wheel + clutch=900
radiator+intercooler no more than 1500
so why people say it cost like 25k-35k for swap?
The 25 - 35K price tag is to have a shop do the work for you, labor will easily run 9K to go from stock to 20b. You can save the 9K by doing as much of the fab work(and there is alot) but it will take you longer time wish to get the car complete'd. I understand what you are saying by only running 8psi on the stock turbos, but why do that, just keep the 13b.
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Old Sep 15, 2004 | 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 20B 3rd Gen
but why do that, just keep the 13b.
Because there is better low end response and torque.

-Destin
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Old Sep 15, 2004 | 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by sillbeer
Because there is better low end response and torque.

-Destin
IMHO @ 8psi on stock turbos there's not enough difference between the 13b and 20b in torque to justify the cost of the swap, especially if you already have a 13b in your car. Now what I did, when I decided to buy my 3rd gen I already knew I want'd to do a 20b swap, so I bought a car with no motor.
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Old Sep 16, 2004 | 12:30 AM
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To each his own. My fd is running great. When I start my swap , I plan on putting the 13brew into my 1st gen.
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Old Sep 16, 2004 | 08:56 AM
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http://www.catenet.net/graph.php?car...1&SUBMIT=GRAPH

I took this from an earlier thread this month. Check out the comparison between the 13b @ 14psi and the 20b @ 8psi. 13b is the red line and the 20b is the green one.

-Destin
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Old Sep 16, 2004 | 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Godzilla-T78
Ok what is needed to get the motor in a fd and get it running.. just the basics.. I know a 20blong block, and subframe. Already got the radiator and oil coolers it needs to run safely.. Do you need a aftermarket ecu for sure or can it run on the stock ecu at all. Give me a list of what is needed.

Matt
https://www.rx7club.com/20b-forum-95/where-does-all-costs-come-59544/
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Old Sep 16, 2004 | 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 20B 3rd Gen
The 25 - 35K price tag is to have a shop do the work for you, labor will easily run 9K to go from stock to 20b. You can save the 9K by doing as much of the fab work(and there is alot) but it will take you longer time wish to get the car complete'd. I understand what you are saying by only running 8psi on the stock turbos, but why do that, just keep the 13b.
Hell no i didn't say anything about 8 psi. If i'm going to put a 20b in my FD I'm going to do it right. I'm going to single it.

I think I'm going to stop getting stuff for the FD and start looking into the swap.

Last edited by MR_Rick; Sep 16, 2004 at 01:33 PM.
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Old Sep 18, 2004 | 10:46 AM
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full 20b cosmo front clip $3300 shipped, am I the only person who can find these clips, $5000 just for an engine is a total waste of money, you want something really fast and cheap, 92 jspec pular GTiR $8000 usd shipped and legalized to united states. AWD 0-60 4.8 secs, 1/4 13.8 (100% stock)
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Old Sep 18, 2004 | 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by sillbeer
http://www.catenet.net/graph.php?car...1&SUBMIT=GRAPH

I took this from an earlier thread this month. Check out the comparison between the 13b @ 14psi and the 20b @ 8psi. 13b is the red line and the 20b is the green one.

-Destin

Yep look at the hp differance below 3k rpm's(and that's a stock 20b with the huge GT-42 turbo). The 20b rules for low end.
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Old Sep 18, 2004 | 06:17 PM
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the reason some of us are doing the stock 20b install is because it is a better place to start modding. I intend to drop the 20b into my motorless FD, and once I get it in and running start modding it like I would a car that has that engine from the factory. At the moment I can only afford to do such a swap, but when my apprenticeship is over I will pull the motor and go nuts on it. Yes, the main reason I wanted a 20b is for the cool factor now. No, I dont have it running yet lol. But then again, I am in no hurry, I'm gonna do it slow and right rather than throwin it together and having it screwed up. So far I have the car for $8000, the engine for $3000, and most of the little crap (mounts, ecu, ect.) Including the car I have about $15,000 invested. I figure it will be about $20000 in total to have it running.

Rob
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