3-rotar in an FC
Yeah, its not as hard as it used to be. FC3S.org makes mounts for the engine so that cutting the firewall, and fabbing a subframe isn't necessary. The hardest part would be the electronics, sensors, etc.
why even bother answering his question? tell his *** to search. Newbs with one 1 stupid post should really be shown the light or the boot. I sure wish i was a mod sometimes. i'd be the evil sadistic mod. anyway YES there are a few 3 rotOr fc's out there. If you want to do it, get an FC and then have about 20 grand lying around for parts and stuff. also a lot of custom work is required. and i'm willing to bet that if you can't spell rotor you won't be able to do the work.
Peace,
Matt
Peace,
Matt
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Originally Posted by spike10h
Is is possible to put a 3-rotar in an FC?
Originally Posted by spike10h
I've seen it done on FDs before with ease.
Originally Posted by PoderRotativo
Plus i hear that you also loose handling.
Originally Posted by dorifc3s
yeah u mess up the balance.
Originally Posted by marlaman
i'd be the evil sadistic mod.
However, you would quickly find that the noobs are not much of a bother. It's the Jihad salesmen and their fanatic followers who usually require the most Evil attention.
I'd love to know who started that upsetting the balance **** so that I could have them shot... When you put a fat friend in the passenger seat you just upset the balance...
Hrm lets see, No A/C pump, No condenser, No power steering pump, No huge bulky brackets that mount them, No Air pump, No huge chunk of stock twin turbo/cast iron ****, frp fenders, bumper and wet carbon hood... I think that more than makes up for the weight of the extra rotor/rotor housing and fat intermediate plate... drop 100+lbs of **** and add 50lbs of 3 rotor = acceptable weight gain..
Hrm lets see, No A/C pump, No condenser, No power steering pump, No huge bulky brackets that mount them, No Air pump, No huge chunk of stock twin turbo/cast iron ****, frp fenders, bumper and wet carbon hood... I think that more than makes up for the weight of the extra rotor/rotor housing and fat intermediate plate... drop 100+lbs of **** and add 50lbs of 3 rotor = acceptable weight gain..
Plus if you had the resources you could relocate the battery, drop the stock fuel tank, and mount a fuel cell in an appropriate place as to make the balancing near perfect. Providing you have the weight and balance equipment.
-Destin
-Destin
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,390
Likes: 2
From: San Francisco, CA
You could also lower the 20b's mounting point several inches, lowering the cg of the car and also move it back far enough to maintain the 'mid-engine' layout for that 'perfect balance'.
A dry sump-system helps with that
A dry sump-system helps with that
Originally Posted by sillbeer
Plus if you had the resources you could relocate the battery, drop the stock fuel tank, and mount a fuel cell in an appropriate place as to make the balancing near perfect. Providing you have the weight and balance equipment.
-Destin
-Destin
To answer a few questions...
The original question: Is it possible? Yes. See www.cris.com/~Asam/20B.html
Mess up the balance - After running down to the local grain elevator and weighing the car on all four wheels, then just on the front, then just on the back: 51% front and 49% back. Close enough to 50/50 for me. Truth in advertising: The battery is now in the trunk (the semi-circular space under the carpeting). I have a rollbar, and there is a whole roll of Dynomat under the carpeting in the passenger compartment. Without those, I _might_ be at 52/48.
Mess up the handling - The car handles superbly. Truth in advertising: I have Ground Control adjustable coilovers, Tokico Illuminas, along with 8.5-inch-wide wheels in front and 10-inch-wide wheels in the back. Without those, the car handles OK, but the excessive torque gives a whole new meaning to "throttle oversteer", if you really try to use all that power.
Mess up the balance - After running down to the local grain elevator and weighing the car on all four wheels, then just on the front, then just on the back: 51% front and 49% back. Close enough to 50/50 for me. Truth in advertising: The battery is now in the trunk (the semi-circular space under the carpeting). I have a rollbar, and there is a whole roll of Dynomat under the carpeting in the passenger compartment. Without those, I _might_ be at 52/48.
Mess up the handling - The car handles superbly. Truth in advertising: I have Ground Control adjustable coilovers, Tokico Illuminas, along with 8.5-inch-wide wheels in front and 10-inch-wide wheels in the back. Without those, the car handles OK, but the excessive torque gives a whole new meaning to "throttle oversteer", if you really try to use all that power.
I spoke to "Koby" at the Sevenstock about this issue. He agreed that the 20B transplant into an FC (86-91) is a much better option than the FD (92-02) as the cars balance isn't in question with the FC installation.
So thats straight form the man himself.
So thats straight form the man himself.


