20BEAST FD build.
12-23-12, 02:06 AM
#1
20BEAST FD build.
Well I decided to make a thread of the new build on my 93 rx7.
My last build was a 13b-rew. V mount setup, long runner single turbo, pre turbo WI making 535whp a few years ago when it was on the dyno last.
I plan on going 20b this time. I've always enjoyed the sound of the 3 and 4 rotor engines. I sold my last 20b a few years ago thinking that I could find one easy when im ready to take the plunge. Well I was wrong. The 20b is very hard to find anymore and becoming scarce.
Here is a list of my plans with the build. Im looking for a 550-600whp street car on low boost 10-13psi that I can take to the track and autocross.
I will be doing all the fabrication, Engine mods and building and labor. I will have a few things done by outside sources that are out of my capabilities due to lack of the proper equipment.
-source a 20b
-Solid dowels
-7 thru studs
-High compression s5 rotors
-Large street port
-Lapped housings
-Dynamic balance.
-Long runner custom manifold
-comp turbo Tripple ball bearing 74mm turbo
-v-mount intercooler and radiator setup
-move the engine back 4-5"
-3.5" exhaust
-Aem Ems V2
I Have a ton other decision to make and I will keep the thread updated as I go.
Here is my platform that I had last summer
My last build was a 13b-rew. V mount setup, long runner single turbo, pre turbo WI making 535whp a few years ago when it was on the dyno last.
I plan on going 20b this time. I've always enjoyed the sound of the 3 and 4 rotor engines. I sold my last 20b a few years ago thinking that I could find one easy when im ready to take the plunge. Well I was wrong. The 20b is very hard to find anymore and becoming scarce.
Here is a list of my plans with the build. Im looking for a 550-600whp street car on low boost 10-13psi that I can take to the track and autocross.
I will be doing all the fabrication, Engine mods and building and labor. I will have a few things done by outside sources that are out of my capabilities due to lack of the proper equipment.
-source a 20b
-Solid dowels
-7 thru studs
-High compression s5 rotors
-Large street port
-Lapped housings
-Dynamic balance.
-Long runner custom manifold
-comp turbo Tripple ball bearing 74mm turbo
-v-mount intercooler and radiator setup
-move the engine back 4-5"
-3.5" exhaust
-Aem Ems V2
I Have a ton other decision to make and I will keep the thread updated as I go.
Here is my platform that I had last summer
12-23-12, 02:20 AM
#2
FINALLY! After 2 months of looking and either running into flakey people or being bought out from under me I finally managed to source a 20b from a member (Jeff20b) on here. Took the trip last weekend and picked it up.
It has fresh rebuild with around 300 miles with atkins apex seals. Im always hesitant on buying any rotary engine that's been ported. Many out there don't know how to do it properly. But upon receiving pics he knew what he was doing and they look really good. But I will be tearing it open for my own personal inspection, mods and personal preferences on seals that will better suit the power im after.
Here is the block I picked up for 2500$
#756.
It has fresh rebuild with around 300 miles with atkins apex seals. Im always hesitant on buying any rotary engine that's been ported. Many out there don't know how to do it properly. But upon receiving pics he knew what he was doing and they look really good. But I will be tearing it open for my own personal inspection, mods and personal preferences on seals that will better suit the power im after.
Here is the block I picked up for 2500$
#756.
12-23-12, 02:29 AM
#3
After going through all my transmission options. I want to take on the challenge of running the stock transmission. I plan on moving the engine back 4-5 inches so I can run a Larger V-mount setup.
I will have to Relocate the shifter to the front port on the transmission.
I will have to Relocate the shifter to the front port on the transmission.
12-23-12, 04:10 PM
#7
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ive only ripped out fifth gear on my stock trans 20b and i slide it in fourth gear all day!!!! the only reason i ripped it out is cuz i mis shifted from second to fifth! and that exedy twin disc had no relent!!
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12-23-12, 07:24 PM
#8
I wont be too hard on the car. If it blows it blows. Liberty does some neat stuff on these transmissions. People like turbotommy ran his car hard on the stock trans with over 700hp. It finally broke from the new owner.
I also dont run sticky tires. So they will give before all the power takes out the trans
12-28-12, 06:41 PM
#13
I have another idea from another member that i might try.
Yes thats a socket he used lol
12-28-12, 11:09 PM
#15
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you are going to hate her... you will change something small only to realize something else no longer fits, then you will bleed, then more money has to be thrown at it and just when you think you got it figured out and you are about to turn the her over it doesn't want to start, then you search the forum and you try all the tricks for the car to run, you say to yourself, I got fuel pressure, I got air coming in and I got fire but it doesn't want to turn... but then my friend she will turn over when you least expect it and when she does and you hear her sound at idle... no words can explain the feeling! at the same time... I beleive that is the common process we all share, so don<t give up!! :-)
My 20B sits 6 inches back without having to cut the firewall (the UIM sits 1/2 inch away from the firewall if memory serves me right)`on a stock subframe and it is mated to a stock transmission and the shifter sits in the stock location. I tared the entire thing and redid it except the transmission so I don<t know what internal modification was done to it but I know it is runing a modified B&M short shifter and it works. If you drive your car properly your trany will be fine.
Good luck with your build!!!
Andrew
My 20B sits 6 inches back without having to cut the firewall (the UIM sits 1/2 inch away from the firewall if memory serves me right)`on a stock subframe and it is mated to a stock transmission and the shifter sits in the stock location. I tared the entire thing and redid it except the transmission so I don<t know what internal modification was done to it but I know it is runing a modified B&M short shifter and it works. If you drive your car properly your trany will be fine.
Good luck with your build!!!
Andrew
12-28-12, 11:16 PM
#16
you are going to hate her... you will change something small only to realize something else no longer fits, then you will bleed, then more money has to be thrown at it and just when you think you got it figured out and you are about to turn the her over it doesn't want to start, then you search the forum and you try all the tricks for the car to run, you say to yourself, I got fuel pressure, I got air coming in and I got fire but it doesn't want to turn... but then my friend she will turn over when you least expect it and when she does and you hear her sound at idle... no words can explain the feeling! at the same time... I beleive that is the common process we all share, so don<t give up!! :-)
My 20B sits 6 inches back without having to cut the firewall (the UIM sits 1/2 inch away from the firewall if memory serves me right)`on a stock subframe and it is mated to a stock transmission and the shifter sits in the stock location. I tared the entire thing and redid it except the transmission so I don<t know what internal modification was done to it but I know it is runing a modified B&M short shifter and it works. If you drive your car properly your trany will be fine.
Good luck with your build!!!
Andrew
My 20B sits 6 inches back without having to cut the firewall (the UIM sits 1/2 inch away from the firewall if memory serves me right)`on a stock subframe and it is mated to a stock transmission and the shifter sits in the stock location. I tared the entire thing and redid it except the transmission so I don<t know what internal modification was done to it but I know it is runing a modified B&M short shifter and it works. If you drive your car properly your trany will be fine.
Good luck with your build!!!
Andrew
thewird
12-28-12, 11:33 PM
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pic
I don<t post often so I don<t remember how to do it well. I found some pictures of my old setup. today the physical positioning hasnt changed, but new motor, clutch, etc, etc an I don<t have acces to the car right now because I am in another country for another week. but this is what I have on me that I found:
I don<t know if these pictures help. it sits on a stock subframe right behind and under the subframe. on the driver side it has the 20B engine mount and on the passanger it has a custom aluinum mount. both sides sit on metal plates so that I don<t have any movement of the engine and I don<t have engine mounts breaking or melting. the vibrations to the car in my opinion when you are under boost are very negligeable. on the last picture you see the custom engine mount. I<ll probably post the pictures when the build is finished... set the timing and I am done :-)
I don<t know if these pictures help. it sits on a stock subframe right behind and under the subframe. on the driver side it has the 20B engine mount and on the passanger it has a custom aluinum mount. both sides sit on metal plates so that I don<t have any movement of the engine and I don<t have engine mounts breaking or melting. the vibrations to the car in my opinion when you are under boost are very negligeable. on the last picture you see the custom engine mount. I<ll probably post the pictures when the build is finished... set the timing and I am done :-)
12-28-12, 11:39 PM
#18
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Sorry silverFDturbo6port I just realized I didn<t want to highjack your thread!! I didn't think... well if you need any opinions or ideas on the physical install I'll give you my 2cents
12-28-12, 11:53 PM
#19
Was the steering rack moved and did you need to modify the oil pan at all? If you could get a picture from underneath, would be awesome. You sure the engine was moved back 6 inches? As in you can you have a custom driveshaft made that was 6 inches shorter.
thewird
thewird
12-29-12, 12:08 AM
#20
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The steering rack was not moved at all only the brackets on the top of the steering rack have smallpiece of metal 2mm tall that was sticking out and that was shaved down a little so that the engine sits in line with the differential. But the original position of the sterring rack and the steering rack itself remain unchanged. yes the drive shaft was shortened. I will get a picture from under the car. it is a custom oil pan. Basically the pan is built making the most of the space available between the bottom of the engine and the stock subframe.
I wouldn<t put my hand on fire but I am pretty sure my engine sits 6 inches back. I guess it is really easy to figure out looking at the pics the UIM is between the stock R1 strut bar and the firewall (or maybe not :-))
I dont know if this info would be usefull to the OP... I wouldn<t want to highjack his thread. maybe PM me with questions.
Cheers
I wouldn<t put my hand on fire but I am pretty sure my engine sits 6 inches back. I guess it is really easy to figure out looking at the pics the UIM is between the stock R1 strut bar and the firewall (or maybe not :-))
I dont know if this info would be usefull to the OP... I wouldn<t want to highjack his thread. maybe PM me with questions.
Cheers
12-29-12, 01:58 AM
#21
Yea your motor sits back 4-6". It looks nice.
Im not worried on building this. I build them for a living so I have lots of experience with them. It just takes money for parts and time. That and im working with cad to make my own parts.
As far as your transmission shifter location did you move the shifter to the front port? Or another idea i had was notch the shifter forward 4-6" in the stock location kinda like mustangs shifters have.
Weird- If you have a atomic rex rack or a "TRUE" de powered stock rack with all the crap removed and shaved smooth then you should have no issues.
Kanho I plan on moving everything back like you did so i can get one of my v mount kits to clear everything fairly easy like my 13b setup.
Im not worried on building this. I build them for a living so I have lots of experience with them. It just takes money for parts and time. That and im working with cad to make my own parts.
As far as your transmission shifter location did you move the shifter to the front port? Or another idea i had was notch the shifter forward 4-6" in the stock location kinda like mustangs shifters have.
Weird- If you have a atomic rex rack or a "TRUE" de powered stock rack with all the crap removed and shaved smooth then you should have no issues.
Kanho I plan on moving everything back like you did so i can get one of my v mount kits to clear everything fairly easy like my 13b setup.
12-29-12, 10:56 AM
#24
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Sorry I didn't know you build these. This means we will see a quality build! Nice!
Your V-mount will fit. Radiator at the bottom and intercooler at the top probably the easier config. And the best for the rad and air flow.
I didn't build the original setup. So I can't take credit for all the positioning. But I will try to get you the pics you asked for.
Andrew
Your V-mount will fit. Radiator at the bottom and intercooler at the top probably the easier config. And the best for the rad and air flow.
I didn't build the original setup. So I can't take credit for all the positioning. But I will try to get you the pics you asked for.
Andrew
12-29-12, 11:05 AM
#25
The reason I'm a little excited is cause I wanted to move my engine back exactly 6 inches according to my measurements. I had assumed I would have to cut up the firewall but if thats not the case, then mucho bonus haha. Gotta finish putting the motor together to find out haha. Thanks for the pics.
thewird
thewird