20BEAST FD build.
#78
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Now that you were able to move your engine back 4 inches, what did you finally decide for the tranny setup? also what about the clutch setup? Did you set your self up to have have a setup that in the future allows you to bring down the tranny without having to take out the engine?
Andrew
Andrew
#79
Now that you were able to move your engine back 4 inches, what did you finally decide for the tranny setup? also what about the clutch setup? Did you set your self up to have have a setup that in the future allows you to bring down the tranny without having to take out the engine?
Andrew
Andrew
I dont have a answer on your question about the transmission being able to be removed without removing the engine. I have yet to make my subframe and actually set the position in stone.
I will keep this updated.
#81
Unfortunately it will not be ready for that. My goal is by Aug 1st. I plan on driving it to my wedding on Aug 23rd. I am building someone else's Fd right now as well as my own so I def have my hands full right now. Id love to go to LW as well as SS or DGRR next summer.
#83
Rotary Enthusiast
I was toying with doing this on mine. Have you butt jointed and welded inside and out? I would need to add depth width outwards on the lip though so I would end up with some kind of witness where the material changes from old to new even if I got a good flush joint. Was also a bit nervous doing it on an ally rim. I cannot find any other wheels I like at the mo though so might be an option if I can get it done for a decent cost?
#84
I was toying with doing this on mine. Have you butt jointed and welded inside and out? I would need to add depth width outwards on the lip though so I would end up with some kind of witness where the material changes from old to new even if I got a good flush joint. Was also a bit nervous doing it on an ally rim. I cannot find any other wheels I like at the mo though so might be an option if I can get it done for a decent cost?
#85
Rotary Enthusiast
I Might look into some more then.. You doing this fab work yourself I take it? How did you keep the pieces all concentric with one another and avoid any run-out? That must be quite a fiddle? If ally tig weld pulls anything like the stainless that just adds to the fun!
#90
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I couldn't confirm by the picture but make sure everything that you need to get acces to around the engine is clear once you finish up it's positioning... I was trying to see your oil filter and I couldn't tel if you did a mock up with an actual oil filter on the car so that you can tell if it is accessible to put it or remove it off the car
Great job with the subframe and mounts! Keep it up!
Great job with the subframe and mounts! Keep it up!
#96
Yes he is correct I got married last weekend after a year of planning.
I have been busy with work and my business I started (RotaryAutomotive).
I finally got some time to mess with the car after getting customers projects done and out of the way although I did aquire our local mazda dealerships account for rotary rebuilds so im sure my time is limited for now. I have already bought everything for it besides aem ems and wastegate and the motor goes to the machine shop in the winter.
Here are some pics. I lowered the steering rack about 2.5 inches so I could lower my motor and move it back about 4.5 inches. Its a very tedious precess moving the rack because you have you make sure you end up with no bump steer during compression rebound as well as left and right movement during suspension compression and rebound. Took some time and patients and I got it perfect.
The motor is now in and the turbo is mocked up. Once the car is 100% together I take it apart and paint the whole car.
I have been busy with work and my business I started (RotaryAutomotive).
I finally got some time to mess with the car after getting customers projects done and out of the way although I did aquire our local mazda dealerships account for rotary rebuilds so im sure my time is limited for now. I have already bought everything for it besides aem ems and wastegate and the motor goes to the machine shop in the winter.
Here are some pics. I lowered the steering rack about 2.5 inches so I could lower my motor and move it back about 4.5 inches. Its a very tedious precess moving the rack because you have you make sure you end up with no bump steer during compression rebound as well as left and right movement during suspension compression and rebound. Took some time and patients and I got it perfect.
The motor is now in and the turbo is mocked up. Once the car is 100% together I take it apart and paint the whole car.