Interested in what temps all you 20B guys are seeing at around 88-92F ambient?

I see 90-95 C, which is 194-205 F in this heat. And this holds rock steady.

I am running a FMiC with the chase bays radiator and Mishimoto high flow (1800cfm x 2) fans.

Also running a remedy water pump, panspeed vented hood and dual 25 row oil coolers.

Please let me know your temps and setup.

I would be especially interested in vmount readings or any setup achieving the target 185F range in this freaking heat.

AA

 

I'll report back when my car is together. I'm running a Garrett core front mount, Koyo n flow radiator, RX8 fans, Davies Craig ewp, and dual factory oil coolers with R magic ducting.

My 13b vmount setup with stock water pump never went above 85c on 35c days stuck in stock and go traffic. I'm really curious to see how the 20b will perform being that it's 50% bigger.

 

@dabigesii ,

Thanks for chiming in. Yes, my prior vmounted setup was also rock solid with temps in the 85C range. The fmic setup works well for me in 70-80C weather. However, it runs rather hot for my liking in the 85-95 C range. It holds steady but I would rather not stay in the 95C range.

I did pick up a ewp kit but I am trying to solve the issue (if there even is one) using the mechanical pump.

AA

 

Hell, that's where my naturally aspirated 13B runs... usually about 110F higher than ambient temps. When it's 100F out it runs 210 on the highway, when it's 40F out, it's about 150F. I'd be thrilled to keep a 20B that cool

 

True. All things being stock that’s what I would expect also but I guess once you have a tuned ecu and vmount you start to like the idea of a constantly cool running rotary. In this case my ideal target temp would be 185F. But I know that’s wishful thinking and not achievable without a vmount or AI.

 

I don't think the stock thermostat is even open at 185*
I think your thermostat will dictate the lowest operating temp so I can't picture you seeing 185* unless you have a 180* tstat...

 

Running a thermostat that begins to open at 160 F. Things get warm very quickly with an extra housing …

 

What does your ductwork look like? It’s super important with an FMIC as the air can it the IC and then squeeze out the sides even if they are close together.

might also be worth some scoops to get a little fresh air straight to the radiator.

 

The chase bays Rad mounts between the frame rails and just under the front cooling panel. There’s about 2inches max between the IC and rad. Ducted in the bottom, sides and top.

I am thinking of creating scoops on the bottom sealing panel to get air in while moving. I’m wondering if the fans are struggling to pull fresh air in under load.

There has been good feedback from others saying the temps are inline.

 

I’ve got the same setup. I’m going to put a slit in the upper part of the bumper like where yours is and duct it straight down into the radiator area. My bumper doesn’t really have room for anything on the sides because the intercooler is so wide and already close to interfering with the oil cooler ducts.

what are your oil temps? If those are stable then your coolant temp might not be that bad as long as it doesn’t increase.

 

nice setup. My oil temps are inline with the coolant temps as expected. 25 row setrab duals.

Please check that your front bumper duct/cut will indeed go through to the radiator and not be right to the IC. For me the IC is in the way of that duct and my IC is mounted a tad bit lower than yours.

your hood may be the solution.

 

the stock 20B setup is very different from an Rx7. it uses two thermostats. it runs from one, which opens at 97c. then the second thermostat is a normal 82c part, but then there is a valve which is ecu controlled to turn it on and off.
i'm sort of skimming the Japanese, but the valve opens under load or when temps get hot enough.

so stock temps for a 20B will probably be higher than the FD, but also probably more stable

 

Interesting. I assume you mean they use two different thermostats ranges in the water pump/neck housing?

I knew there were two - but not that they had differing ranges.

anyway will be trying some theoretic stuff this week.

I assume anyone running a vmount 20b has no such temp concerns?

 

yep, plus there is an ECU controlled valve. so one thermostat is working all the time, and it is 97c, the other is an 82c thermostat, but the ECU only opens it on demand

 

Interesting. So the trick is more flow via two thermostats and one is an urgent temp open in case of high temps. I guess this answers half my issue in that if I go to an ewp then the first thermostat restriction is removed and the flow can be increased.

Thanks

 

More flow is good as long as it is not at the expense of pressure in the block. That's what keeps the coolant from boiling in the hot areas around the spark plugs.