20B conversions
20B conversions
this post may belong to the 20b forum..but i not many ppl post things there( that ive noticed) ... so , to get started my question is: when doing a 20b swap, how would someone go N/A and remove the turbos..or is it cheaper to stick with a single trubo set up? ... i wouldnt be looking for too much power , lets say around 330-350 rwhp .... and would an apexi pfc be able to handle the 20b engine?
huh?? lol. You can get 400+ with NA 20B...but it wont be easy. 300-325 is doable in my understanding and that is what i am working towards with my 20B NA build in my RX8.
In the long run i think it will be cheaper to go NA...
If you want power do a single turbo setup and call it a day. I will be racing my car and doing laps after laps on race tracks...that is why I am going NA...tired of issues with turbos.
good luck with your research.
-Adam
In the long run i think it will be cheaper to go NA...
If you want power do a single turbo setup and call it a day. I will be racing my car and doing laps after laps on race tracks...that is why I am going NA...tired of issues with turbos.
good luck with your research.
-Adam
The PFC can not be used as the engine management for a 20b.
It is really simply to install the engine N/A, just put a custom header where the exhaust manfold is. Turbos are gone and the engine is N/A. Don't expect a lot of power, it will take a lot more parts and a lot of work to break the 300whp N/A. Including a full engine build, with porting, high compression rotors, ITB's, etc .
So is it cheaper then a single turbo, that is debateable. I would have to say the "cheapest" solutiuon is to just run the stock twins non-sequential at 7-8psi, this should yield a reliable low boost, low(er) cost 350whp.
This topic has actually been covered numerous times in the section.
It is really simply to install the engine N/A, just put a custom header where the exhaust manfold is. Turbos are gone and the engine is N/A. Don't expect a lot of power, it will take a lot more parts and a lot of work to break the 300whp N/A. Including a full engine build, with porting, high compression rotors, ITB's, etc .
So is it cheaper then a single turbo, that is debateable. I would have to say the "cheapest" solutiuon is to just run the stock twins non-sequential at 7-8psi, this should yield a reliable low boost, low(er) cost 350whp.
This topic has actually been covered numerous times in the section.
as said by Banzi, a N/A 20B is a great engine but they perform best with boost. as they can handle mild to high boost way better than the 13B, all in all though a 20B is not a "Cheap" swap it takes time and money. but to get quick fun power run the stock twins and a microtech ecu.
well i understand that it will not cheap by any means ... but compared to a turbo whci the setup alone can cost upwords to $5K ... an n/a would seem "cheaper" ...plus ive liked n/a cars more...tahnk you for the tip on microtech ... ill be researching more on ecus as well as hih compression rotors...to my understanding rx8 rotors can be used but ill have to do a bit more reading.... anyone know where itb can be found? ps. dont get excited guys im not doing the build just yet, so no pics lol
well i understand that it will not cheap by any means ... but compared to a turbo whci the setup alone can cost upwords to $5K ... an n/a would seem "cheaper" ...plus ive liked n/a cars more...tahnk you for the tip on microtech ... ill be researching more on ecus as well as hih compression rotors...to my understanding rx8 rotors can be used but ill have to do a bit more reading.... anyone know where itb can be found? ps. dont get excited guys im not doing the build just yet, so no pics lol
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It really has not been proven that the rx-8 rotors have made more power. I found out from logan at defined autoworks that the rx-8 rotors have only made more power with a p-port. Logan found that information from Carlos Lopez.






