20B carburated??
20B carburated??
I am getting ready to go single turbo power over the winter, among other things that I want to do to my FD. My car is already off of the road and I am about ready to start buying parts. But I just received my Options/Rx-7 Special video. Which has some sweet sevens on it. RE Ameyia(sp???) has a couple of cars on there. One of which is a Blue 3 Rotor car that has Weber?? carbs I believe, and it sounds like it has a bridge-port as well. Now what is your guys opinion on a 3 rotor bridge-ported, carburated, FD?? Think it may be dumb to carburate at 3 rotor?? I'm thinking it may be a more reliable alternative to a single turbo 13B FD. Or at least something different. I just love the way it sounded...
Oh yeah, another question, any guess-timates on how much you think it would cost to set up a carburated 20B in a FD?? And anyone know somebody besides RE who has done it??
Thanks all for your time, and please no flames...
Oh yeah, another question, any guess-timates on how much you think it would cost to set up a carburated 20B in a FD?? And anyone know somebody besides RE who has done it??
Thanks all for your time, and please no flames...
I would if I had the $$ you get about 450-500 N/A power! lots of torque and it also makes your engine bay look soooo simple when it is carburated. I think going carb will also simplify the wiring. RE's GT car is 3 rotor N/A, Revolution also had one, and on one of the new options I saw a guy with a white FC that had it as well...
good luck finding a shop that will do this!
David
good luck finding a shop that will do this!
David
Yeah I figured you wouldn't need to find a computer, so that would simplify it a bit, plus I figured it would be a much simpler system without the turbo stuff, and with out all of the wiring. Because I would take it that you would strip all the wiring off of the engine except like for the alternator, oil pressure sender, water temp sender, etc.. I would think it would be a bunch cheaper to set up too, compared to a turbo'd 20B
It would be about $20,000 USD if you did everything yourself (including a lot of fabrication), and up to $60,000 USD if you had a professional shop do it. Of course, that depends a lot on what kind of options you choose, as a GT-level (450hp) NA engine would tack on another $30,000 or so to the price tag. Yes, that's right, it would be MORE expensive than dropping the stock twin-turbo 20B (550hp potential) into your car. Nice try, though.
However, I think that it would make a very interesting project, and yes, it would simplify the engine bay. I saw a really cool NA EFI 20B manifold on one of the Aussie? web sites, but I forgot the address.
If you are just looking for more HP, you may want to slap a nice single turbo setup on your 13BREW, and you could make the same peak 450HP as a GT-level NA 20B for under $20,000 in parts and labor.
For the carb issue, I think that it is "dumb" to put a carb on ANY engine that operates in a wide rpm range. Drag cars, airplanes, etc. may operate at a "constant" rpm and can use a carb just fine, but everything else is better off with EFI. While most carbs have only 1-3 points of tuning, most of the low-priced EMS units have 128-512. Also, if you price carbs and manifolds, you will see that they cost just as much as the low-price EMS units. IMO carbs are NOT easy to tune, especially multi-carb setups. After a tuning session with a Wolf3D, I quickly determined that I will never again have any use for a carb. BTW, you can download the Wolf manual and software and try it out yourself:
http://www.wolfems.com.au/images/W3dv3_0manual.pdf
http://www.wolfems.com.au/images/wmc.zip
However, I think that it would make a very interesting project, and yes, it would simplify the engine bay. I saw a really cool NA EFI 20B manifold on one of the Aussie? web sites, but I forgot the address.If you are just looking for more HP, you may want to slap a nice single turbo setup on your 13BREW, and you could make the same peak 450HP as a GT-level NA 20B for under $20,000 in parts and labor.
For the carb issue, I think that it is "dumb" to put a carb on ANY engine that operates in a wide rpm range. Drag cars, airplanes, etc. may operate at a "constant" rpm and can use a carb just fine, but everything else is better off with EFI. While most carbs have only 1-3 points of tuning, most of the low-priced EMS units have 128-512. Also, if you price carbs and manifolds, you will see that they cost just as much as the low-price EMS units. IMO carbs are NOT easy to tune, especially multi-carb setups. After a tuning session with a Wolf3D, I quickly determined that I will never again have any use for a carb. BTW, you can download the Wolf manual and software and try it out yourself:
http://www.wolfems.com.au/images/W3dv3_0manual.pdf
http://www.wolfems.com.au/images/wmc.zip
Originally posted by Evil Aviator
I saw a really cool NA EFI 20B manifold on one of the Aussie? web sites, but I forgot the address.
I saw a really cool NA EFI 20B manifold on one of the Aussie? web sites, but I forgot the address.
As you can see from the other pics on this site, EFI makes for just as clean an engine bay as a carb.
http://www.injectionperfection.com.au/
The Mazdatrix drag car has a bridge-ported 20B, and they were going to run a Holley Projection (programmable TBI setup) but that didn't work out so they stuffed a Dominator (1050cfm 4-barrel) carb on it. THAT worked out. 
If you've never seen a Dominator in person... man, those things are HUGE.

If you've never seen a Dominator in person... man, those things are HUGE.
Trending Topics
The SCCA EMod autocross national champ uses a 20B (in a Bugeye
) with what looked like a Weber tripple downdraft that is used on the flat 6 Porsche motors. Here is a pic of one Weber IDA 3-barrel
) with what looked like a Weber tripple downdraft that is used on the flat 6 Porsche motors. Here is a pic of one Weber IDA 3-barrel
Ya my dream is to use a 48 IDA 3c (3 c means triple chamber) on a 20B peripheral port. That would make some serious horse power. With a turbo like a T100 probably well over 7 or 800 horses. what do you guys think?
CJG
CJG
Originally posted by Rotortuner
Ya my dream is to use a 48 IDA 3c (3 c means triple chamber) on a 20B peripheral port. That would make some serious horse power. With a turbo like a T100 probably well over 7 or 800 horses. what do you guys think?
CJG
Ya my dream is to use a 48 IDA 3c (3 c means triple chamber) on a 20B peripheral port. That would make some serious horse power. With a turbo like a T100 probably well over 7 or 800 horses. what do you guys think?
CJG
Old 13Bs had 9.2:1 compression and the 20B has 9.0:1 compression rotors like the '89+ TII engines. That means if you needed to, you could get away with using NA induction on stock rotors for a while. The power potential for the engine will be lower, but I might have to do that while I save up to get a proper induction system. A 20B ain't cheap.
Ever since I got my 89 GTUs a few years ago, I've always wanted to make it into the ultimate non-turbo with a streetported, high-compression, fuel injected 20B. This would conservatively put out 300+ hp in a dead-reliable, understressed form, with a crapload of torque <drool> :) With no turbos and the associated plumbing, it would not be that hard or expensive to do. I'd fire the plugs with a distributor and control the fuel with an SDS. A custom TB would need to be made, but that's not a big deal. I had considered the tripple throat Weber, but Rob Golden assures me it wouldn't work -- way, way too small. He has one in the shop, and it's a puny bastard :) My Peripheral Port 13B uses a 51IDA, and even a streetported 13B needs a 45 or 48. Also, carbs have simply been eclipsed by even the most rudimentary FI system. Carbs are cool on 1st gen or earlier rotaries, BMW 2002s, Datsun 1600s and 510s, Triumph TR-4s, old Ferarris, and so forth, but I'm just a sentimental fool :)
The other crazy idea I had for my GTUs is a competition 13G. 3 rotor, peripheral port, dry sump, fuel injected, non-turbo, pure race engine that Mazda sells new for about $30K, complete with ECU and associated sub systems. 450+ hp. Not quite drop in <grin>, but certainly not impossible for any competent race prep shop. Not streetable in the conventional sense, but a fun Saturday night cruiser....
Just gotta hit that lottery jackpot :)
The other crazy idea I had for my GTUs is a competition 13G. 3 rotor, peripheral port, dry sump, fuel injected, non-turbo, pure race engine that Mazda sells new for about $30K, complete with ECU and associated sub systems. 450+ hp. Not quite drop in <grin>, but certainly not impossible for any competent race prep shop. Not streetable in the conventional sense, but a fun Saturday night cruiser....
Just gotta hit that lottery jackpot :)
a 'street ported' 3 rotor engine can make 400HP, a PP 3 rotor can make around 500-530 HP. also if you are going to carbie a 3 rotor and ditch all the electrics assosciated with efi, how exactly are you going to control the spark? you can buy a 20B distrubutor from i think it's maz-fix in aussie, they are around $1300AUS.
A 3 rotor PP turbo would make 7-800HP at around 5-10psi boost, blow in over 20psi and you should be well into 4 digits
A 3 rotor PP turbo would make 7-800HP at around 5-10psi boost, blow in over 20psi and you should be well into 4 digits
Why don't any of the big drage guys go to a 3 rotor pp turbo and blow over 20 psi? I think they should and it would defnintely start to make a name for us in the drag world for sure. Oh ya Blake do you know if Rob at pinneaple uses a "D" shaped pp or is that a secret? I was just wondering. Also do you know how much he charges to boar a 48 over to 51? I live by seattle and am building a pp. Any ways thanks.
CJG
CJG
Originally posted by Rotortuner
Why don't any of the big drage guys go to a 3 rotor pp turbo and blow over 20 psi? I think they should and it would defnintely start to make a name for us in the drag world for sure. Oh ya Blake do you know if Rob at pinneaple uses a "D" shaped pp or is that a secret? I was just wondering. Also do you know how much he charges to boar a 48 over to 51? I live by seattle and am building a pp. Any ways thanks.
CJG
Why don't any of the big drage guys go to a 3 rotor pp turbo and blow over 20 psi? I think they should and it would defnintely start to make a name for us in the drag world for sure. Oh ya Blake do you know if Rob at pinneaple uses a "D" shaped pp or is that a secret? I was just wondering. Also do you know how much he charges to boar a 48 over to 51? I live by seattle and am building a pp. Any ways thanks.
CJG
Just to expand upon my first question, why is it that all the big rotary drag guys use bridge port engines rather than a pp? A pp can generate as much torque and quite a bit more hp. Is it because they don't know how?
CJG
CJG
Originally posted by Blake
The other crazy idea I had for my GTUs is a competition 13G. 3 rotor, peripheral port, dry sump, fuel injected, non-turbo, pure race engine that Mazda sells new for about $30K, complete with ECU and associated sub systems. 450+ hp.
The other crazy idea I had for my GTUs is a competition 13G. 3 rotor, peripheral port, dry sump, fuel injected, non-turbo, pure race engine that Mazda sells new for about $30K, complete with ECU and associated sub systems. 450+ hp.
Originally posted by Rotortuner
Why don't any of the big drage guys go to a 3 rotor pp turbo and blow over 20 psi? I think they should and it would defnintely start to make a name for us in the drag world for sure.
Why don't any of the big drage guys go to a 3 rotor pp turbo and blow over 20 psi? I think they should and it would defnintely start to make a name for us in the drag world for sure.

hey evil avitar---see the big round jug next to the intake pipe.....next to the radiator....thats the oil. it is a dry-sump motor fyi, they do exist.

i guess no one has done it....right.
Last edited by rxrotary2_7; Nov 6, 2001 at 12:10 PM.
Originally posted by rxrotary2_7
hey evil avitar---see the big round jug next to the intake pipe.....next to the radiator....thats the oil. it is a dry-sump motor fyi, they do exist.
hey evil avitar---see the big round jug next to the intake pipe.....next to the radiator....thats the oil. it is a dry-sump motor fyi, they do exist.
no, its a guy named sammy. i think he is fom lodi NJ.
evil- i have a feeling you think i was being ignorant in that statemet. just for the record, i wasnt. and i think this guy blake used to go under the name pp13bnos....if so...he does know about pp motors. he had a site and a daily driven pp motor, he may know something.
this would be siguel
evil- i have a feeling you think i was being ignorant in that statemet. just for the record, i wasnt. and i think this guy blake used to go under the name pp13bnos....if so...he does know about pp motors. he had a site and a daily driven pp motor, he may know something.
this would be siguel
Last edited by rxrotary2_7; Nov 6, 2001 at 03:15 PM.





