the wheels were sold to a local 3rd gen owner.....

 

Inconnel would be the only material better than 321 stainless!

Inconnel is stronger and withstands much more heat......however it is very expensive and a bit harder to weld!

I will be making the new header from 321 stainless again.........

Inconnel is for long duration high output runs like nascar, were the exhaust is never given the chance to cool down..... It can also be used to save weight since you could use a lighter gauge without loosing strength!

 

.5" 321 SS for me then.

 

Mild steel works well and is inexpensive, and holds up well. Stainless works well also 304 or 321, inconel works awsome too but the price jumps are about double. I say if you want the best bang for your buck mild steel with ceramic coating is a great value, and will stand up to alot of abuse.

 

Here is a quick pic of the motor...

I will be posting some more tommorrow.... as i am on my way home!

 

oops, here they are!

 

Any one know why the pics post so small...This would be the first time i posted a pic on the new site sytle!

 

wow That's some bad *** work .. Have fun with it ....

 

looks sweet, can't wait to see it on the street!

 

Could you explain why there are 2 runners (tubes) for each rotor going from the manifold to the engine instead of just one large tube for each one? I would assume that more air flow would be good. ???

Granted I don't have a 20b yet, but I counted 6 runners (2 per rotor) off the stock manifold and somehow it appears you have a 4th rotor with that setup. And the tubes are all different sizes......?

 

Each chamber has two intake ports, one on each side. The two ports are not identical, one is larger than the other. Therefore the runners are different sizes.

I see a lot of hard curves and not too many round tubes. That doesn't seem ideal for an intake manifold, but I'm speaking out of my *** here. The oil pan looks pretty interesting and the weld quality looks first rate.

 

Okay, I understand that part and I even thought that could be the reason. But one tube can run to the ports in the housing and then the split in the ports can divide the air up. Why would that not work?

 

there are 6 runners total..

all the way left and all the way right are the larger secondary runners by them selves!

The 2 runners in the middle makeup the other 4 runners (2 per) one of which has 2-primaries (which are smaller) and the other one has one primary and the 3rd secondary...

The two large center runners are split into two.......

If you follow the top 6-individual runners, they follow through to the engine!

Hope that helps!

 

The main reason for building a new intake was to improve the flow rate! I dont have the exact numbers but i do know this mani tested significantly higher than the stock!

The other important thing is to make sure that each rotor gets an even amount of air flow, which the stock mani does not due to the irregular curves in the outer runners and the short plenum...

If you grind out the webbing in the stock 20B intake plenum you can increase the flow rate but the center rotor will always get more air which will cause it to run leaner than the outers..... unless you are tunning each rotor sperately with a capable ECU.....
If you have every noticed, the center rotor is usally the one that breaks first! (with stock config)

 

Sorry. I just looked through all my photos to find a side view of the motor and I see what you're reffering to. Pictures are worth a thousand words. Thanks for explaining that to me.

 

I might agree with you but the runners are a lot larger in size and the outside bends are radiused very well......and of course the flow bensh does not lie as it picked up a significant amount of flow rate over the stock as well as a modified stock mani!

 

In that case, make some more of those. I'll need one sometime and I bet others on here will shell out for one.

 

I'll bet they wont wanna shell out for one. I see at lot of hrs in fab time, and it wont be worth it to most people.

Looks good though.

 

I wouldn't suggest any one spend the money for a custom intake if they are not looking for more than 700 HP or so.

If you are building for those high HP numbers, price should no longer be a concern for your project!

 

Here is a couple of more pics......

 

Those exhaust gaskets look like NA ones - I hope they hold up to the heat.
I would imagine with an unlimited budget, why didn't you run three FD ones?

I don't understand how your intake manifold would flow more balanced than the stock one?
A single large (centered) TB would make for uneven flow to all 6 runners?


-Ted

 

Well, since you asked....They are FD gaskets, the rear which is a one piece gasket for the rear 2 rotors are as they come and the front (single) is 1/2 a gasket cut off also from the FD!

Have you ever looked inside a stock 20B plenum? Maybe i am wrong....A flow bench normally does not lie!

 

The Proof Is In The Pudding!

 

If you asked for FD gaskets and that is what you got, then they sent you the wrong ones. FD gaskets are individual from Mazda as it is and the only ones that come combined are FC gaskets (that I know of). Not bashing, just verifying so you don't put everything together with the wrong gaskets.

 

Thank you for the input. As i remember removing the exhaust gaskets i believe they were thin steel and individual as you said.

I will be looking into it....Racing beat sent them to me and were supposed to be for the FD......

With so much going on with the project and work..... i am missing a few things!

Thanks for pointing that out......