Is it worth it?
01-03-03, 07:56 PM
#1
Is it worth it?
I have an oppertunity to buy an 81 RX-7 for about a grand with a bad *** interion good condition extirior running motor only very minor rust in on area about the size of a quarter did not ge a chance to get the mileage or test drive it but it sounded good when it fired up. The only thing that is wrong with it that I can think of is that it will not start unless I don't put the clutch in and leave it in neutral. I do have a question about that if anyone knows what it could be and if it is an easy fix or how expensive it is this car is fabulously taken care of and only needs a good wax. Is it worth it?
01-03-03, 08:12 PM
#2
aheadau
If I understand it right,,, it would mean that the throw-out bearing was dragging???? When you press the clutch, it depresses the fingers on the pressure plate and allows the disk to spin. But you say it won't allow the engine to start in that situation? I have never seen that. Do you mean the motor won't turn, or it turns but won't start? Is this some anti theft device?
If it is a throw-out bearing, it's the same job as replacing the clutch.
From your description, I would buy it!
If it is a throw-out bearing, it's the same job as replacing the clutch.
From your description, I would buy it!
01-03-03, 08:20 PM
#3
the engine will turn but not turn on. the car is a freinds fathers from which I bought my 87 se from for 2k I trus them not to be liars or stuff like that I turned it on once and my frien turned it on with the clutch in but it would die especialy if you tried tokeep it alive with the gas pedal or floored it. How much would it cost to have it done at a shop ( not experienced enough to do a clutch job or something like that). Thannk you for tha info!
01-03-03, 08:45 PM
#5
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Doesn't sound like a clutch job, sounds like a weak engine that can't even turn the tranny when it's in neutral.
Start with the simple stuff first; check the air filter to see if its clogged, check the spark, check the fuel supply (Is the fuel in the tank gelled? is the fuel filter clean?) Check the oil (is it dirty or low?) and so on
Start with the simple stuff first; check the air filter to see if its clogged, check the spark, check the fuel supply (Is the fuel in the tank gelled? is the fuel filter clean?) Check the oil (is it dirty or low?) and so on
01-03-03, 08:55 PM
#6
aheadau
Are you using the choke? Turn the key on, then pull out the choke. It should stay out until the engine has warmed up. Still unclear if you had it running properly or not??? Sounds like you got it to sort of start, but not to the point it would run on its own??
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01-03-03, 08:58 PM
#8
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Usually, when turn the key with the clutch out, the circuit is broken and the engine will not turn over. When you press the clutch in, the switch on the clutch closes the circuit and power is applied to the starter. You may want to check that the switch is properly wired. I've seen people hard wire the switch so you can start the car without pushing the clutch in. That way, if your car breaks down, you can put it in gear and use the starter to slowly propel yourself out of the intersection and to the side of the road. Disclaimer:This method is not intended for driving extended distances!
You can tell if the throw out bearing was not disengaging the clutch buy pressing in the clutch, put the car in 1st gear, and attempt to start the car. If the car moves forward with the clutch pedal pressed in, then the clutch needs work. Other than that, I don't know any thing else that would cause those problems.
As far as the engine dying, when you depress the accelerator, I would do a compression check, just to know what the compression is and to eliminate the internal engine components. If that checks good, check for fouled spark plugs. From their, its down to carb tuning and chasing down components discretley hidden in the rats nest.
You can tell if the throw out bearing was not disengaging the clutch buy pressing in the clutch, put the car in 1st gear, and attempt to start the car. If the car moves forward with the clutch pedal pressed in, then the clutch needs work. Other than that, I don't know any thing else that would cause those problems.
As far as the engine dying, when you depress the accelerator, I would do a compression check, just to know what the compression is and to eliminate the internal engine components. If that checks good, check for fouled spark plugs. From their, its down to carb tuning and chasing down components discretley hidden in the rats nest.
01-03-03, 08:59 PM
#10
aheadau
Not really enough info yet,,,,,,,If the engine is bad then the price is boarderline, IMO. You really need to discover the actual problem first.
How about the choke??
How about the choke??
01-03-03, 10:50 PM
#15
aheadau
Sorry, I'm slow to type. Since you were NOT using the choke, I am thinking it was just running tooo slow, and that may be your only problem. When you (turn key "on" 1st) pull the choke out and try to start it, it should start to idle at 1500 rpm or more. As it warms up, the rpm will increase. You can push the choke "part way in" to lower the idle speed. It does not need to run faster than 2000 rpm while warming up. The choke will automatically go in by itself when the engine is fully warm and it should then idle at 750 - 800. The ignition switch must be "on" when you pull the choke out, or it will not stay out,,,and it will go back in automatically.
Still not sure about the clutch switch, As Project84 said. But if the choke fixes the "start" problem I think you will be in good shape. If the motor is good, I think you will have a good buy. Please let us know the outcome when you get to try it again. Good luck!
Still not sure about the clutch switch, As Project84 said. But if the choke fixes the "start" problem I think you will be in good shape. If the motor is good, I think you will have a good buy. Please let us know the outcome when you get to try it again. Good luck!
01-04-03, 01:50 PM
#17
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i thought that our cars didnt have that clutch thing where it had to be pressed in to start the car? cuz i dont have to put mine in, i always do, but i dont have to. i was just curious
01-04-03, 02:57 PM
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Originally posted by snakes99
i thought that our cars didnt have that clutch thing where it had to be pressed in to start the car? cuz i dont have to put mine in, i always do, but i dont have to. i was just curious
i thought that our cars didnt have that clutch thing where it had to be pressed in to start the car? cuz i dont have to put mine in, i always do, but i dont have to. i was just curious
01-24-03, 11:30 AM
#21
Ok update I got to hear the thing running for more than thirty seconds this time. I have not cheked the plugs or filter and such yet but hopefully will tommorow. The car sounded ok but I think some new cans (one that is) are in order the interior has some flaws. (1) the pss. side seat is torn a bit the head liner is falling off at the back and the rear part of the carpet is red instead of black. (2) Also I have learned that it does not have the original 12a in it it has one from an 83 model I believe but these guys are not very specific about details.( The second gen I bought from them started out as a 90 and turned out to be an 87 so I can't really be sure about anything) (3) It took a couple of times of starting the car and having it run for a minute then stalling to get it to run on its own. I kinda do not want to test drive it because it does not have valid plates or inspection sticker should I insist anyways though? could the trouble starting be a problem (big one I mean) or just lack of use it has been there for about a month I would say and has not been driven only started on occasion. I need some oppinions.
Oh and I checked kbb.com but they only go to 83 models so I did a check on that year and came up with a price of $925 and the guy is asking 1k after I already haggled from 1200 should I go for another cut on the price or is this a good deal anyways. the chasis has 120k roughly a lil less but since the engine is not original I have no idea what it has gone through. Thanks yooos gais.
Oh and I checked kbb.com but they only go to 83 models so I did a check on that year and came up with a price of $925 and the guy is asking 1k after I already haggled from 1200 should I go for another cut on the price or is this a good deal anyways. the chasis has 120k roughly a lil less but since the engine is not original I have no idea what it has gone through. Thanks yooos gais.
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