Hello all,
I've had a water leak into the driver's side, basically directly over the fuse box under dash. I was able to narrow it down to the compartment where the wiper motor and linkage arm is. (I had sprayed water around the windshield - no leaks from that)
I pulled the wiper assembly out so I could see what is going on there. See photo. I believe that the linkage's knuckle wore through the metal (left photo). I've noticed that the drivers wiper mount is a little "wobbly" as it rotates. I did a quick fix using a self-adhering poly flashing (right photo), but if the linkage arm is still rubbing there, it won't hold up as well as the metal did.
Is there an "easy" way to repair the wiper mount so the linkage arm doesn't scrape on the body?

 

First off, I've never seen this before, or read about this being an issue, so it's due to the specific geometry of your wiper actuator arm. Make sure that it's positioned properly in the mount hole with the plastic angle shims properly placed so the angle is correct to the windshield. Since this seems to be a problem over time, I'd tackle it two ways; I'd hammer down the spot where the hole is currently to make a depression there, then bondo patch over the hole and depression so it doesn't leak there again.

If you wanted to be sure it's never a problem, you could grind down that section of the actuator arm, but heat is an issue if you melt the plastic ball cup. They're not known for being particularly heat tolerant. A file would keep the heat down,

 

This happened on my Dads GSL-SE. That joint becomes sloppy and the wiper wouldn't even move. You have to fix that joint. I just swapped in a spare but these are really hard to find now.

 

Interesting (runs to look at car now).

 

I ended up finding (!) and buying the armature. It seems to work "flawlessly" now.

As an aside, the plastic sleeves/gaskets that receive the 3 tabs on the cowl cover - 2 of the 3 were broken. I made a 3D CAD model of it and had it printed in black ABS plastic. (not cheap, but my first experience with 3D printing, FWIW). It needed a little cleaning up, had to bevel the edge that nested to the body metal, but it was a reasonably good fit. I've attached a zip file of that, along with a PDF that shows what the dimensions are supposed to be.

I should add: it seems that the STL file can distort bizarrely at times, so I drew it at 10X the size, and used 3D builder to scale it down to true size. I included the PDF so the person that prints it can see what it is supposed to be.

 

THANK YOU FOR SHARING THIS! As parts get harder to find, and 3D printing becomes more commonplace, these .STL files will keep more of our cars running and working properly. I appreciate your effort and sharing of the knowledge to make our community of enthusiasts even better. Well done!