windshield trim/moulding protector
02-25-09, 08:37 PM
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windshield trim/moulding protector
Searched....This weekend I hope to take the windshield trim off and paint it. From searching this topic, it appears that using a etching primer then good automotive paint works well. Also, it seems that breaking the clips are a given.
What I would like to know, is how do the old/new clips attach to the car? On my 81 Z28, they are a pain due to them attaching with very small screws on an angle in the windshield channel.
Also, the little plastic moulding protector that goes between the trim and the car on the top piece, how does it install?
What I would like to know, is how do the old/new clips attach to the car? On my 81 Z28, they are a pain due to them attaching with very small screws on an angle in the windshield channel.
Also, the little plastic moulding protector that goes between the trim and the car on the top piece, how does it install?
02-25-09, 10:25 PM
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on the top and bottom, its a similar deal, except the clips pop over the little nub things. they didnt use screws. it'll be fun if its not the original glass, and theres a ton of silicon in there. try to slide the trims off.
the vertical ones are the ones you'll for sure break clips on, normal size screws for that
i think the protector was just glued on, it'll be pretty fried and prolly just fall off.
the vertical ones are the ones you'll for sure break clips on, normal size screws for that
i think the protector was just glued on, it'll be pretty fried and prolly just fall off.
02-26-09, 03:12 PM
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Thanks, got the moulding protector in today and it looks like it just sticks on using adhesive tape attached to it. What is the real purpose for it anyway? I dont know of any other cars that have anything other than the trim around the window.
02-26-09, 05:58 PM
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Yes, that looks good. I actually was looking at this in the archived threads last night. I was thinking about this, but I need to replace the plastic protectors. I dont think I could do that with the trim in place. You tell me, you have way more experience with this than I do.
Mine looks about like yours did prior to the paint job. Wow, man it sure makes a difference in the appearance. Great job.
I did get me a set of clips from blackdragon because I anticipate lots of broken ones.
Mine looks about like yours did prior to the paint job. Wow, man it sure makes a difference in the appearance. Great job.
I did get me a set of clips from blackdragon because I anticipate lots of broken ones.
02-26-09, 06:44 PM
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yeah agreed that looks real nice. I was going to sugest leaving it on the car. I need a new windshield so I've got to take mine off the front but was planning on leaving the rest. Is there any good crome paint to make them chrome again? I want some bling bling 
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02-26-09, 11:59 PM
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02-27-09, 12:01 AM
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Yes, that looks good. I actually was looking at this in the archived threads last night. I was thinking about this, but I need to replace the plastic protectors. I dont think I could do that with the trim in place. You tell me, you have way more experience with this than I do.
Mine looks about like yours did prior to the paint job. Wow, man it sure makes a difference in the appearance. Great job.
I did get me a set of clips from blackdragon because I anticipate lots of broken ones.
Mine looks about like yours did prior to the paint job. Wow, man it sure makes a difference in the appearance. Great job.
I did get me a set of clips from blackdragon because I anticipate lots of broken ones.
if you pull the trim off in a logical order (sides first....) and are a little careful you shouldn't bend anything
02-27-09, 12:10 AM
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Maybe I've just been lucky, but so far I've pulled the window trim several times and never had a problem with breaking clips, and maybe it's different from FB. I've got an SA. The plastic clips on the top are a little worn and the trim doesn't like to snap back in easily. So if you take them off I recommend really checking it good to make sure it's snapped back in right. I ended up loosing the driver's side top trim after the first time I took it off because it wasn't snapped all the way back into the clips. Got home and it wasn't there. Luckily I knew someone with several parts cars for me to go get a replacement from.
02-27-09, 07:05 AM
#13
Last summer I tried to salvage a relatively new windshield from one of my parts cars, after a couple weekends trying all kinds of things (piano wires, saw blades, all kinds of swear words) I finally gave up and sent it to the scrap yard with the shell. The cement they use to put those things in is pretty powerful, I doubt you can get one back out without chips or cracks.
But the good news is that a new replacement installed by a glass company is not that bad, about $100 for the windshield and maybe that much more to put it in. Also they will usually do this at your house. For them it is relatively easy, they smash out the old windshield, have special tools for cleaning out the old cement and special skills to get it back in without leaks.
They would also probably remove the trim for you, again they have a lot of experience that should minimize damage. Of course if they do break something they are liable for any damage; part of the new install will include new clips that they provide. But if you are taking them off yourself I'll suggest this, it is better to slide the trim off the plastic clips clips than pry it off, that's when I would usually bend the trim (and break the clip).
But it is a nice touch when you get it done, thanks for the compliments guys.
And one last word, it seems that 1st gen window trim is destined to peal off no matter how well you put it on. I sanded, did an alcohol rub and recoated twice, then cured the paint in good hot southern sun. Still I noticed the other day, 8 months later, I'm starting to get pitting again and the chrome is making its way back through.
What were the Mazda engineers thinking?
But the good news is that a new replacement installed by a glass company is not that bad, about $100 for the windshield and maybe that much more to put it in. Also they will usually do this at your house. For them it is relatively easy, they smash out the old windshield, have special tools for cleaning out the old cement and special skills to get it back in without leaks.
They would also probably remove the trim for you, again they have a lot of experience that should minimize damage. Of course if they do break something they are liable for any damage; part of the new install will include new clips that they provide. But if you are taking them off yourself I'll suggest this, it is better to slide the trim off the plastic clips clips than pry it off, that's when I would usually bend the trim (and break the clip).
But it is a nice touch when you get it done, thanks for the compliments guys.
And one last word, it seems that 1st gen window trim is destined to peal off no matter how well you put it on. I sanded, did an alcohol rub and recoated twice, then cured the paint in good hot southern sun. Still I noticed the other day, 8 months later, I'm starting to get pitting again and the chrome is making its way back through.
What were the Mazda engineers thinking?
02-27-09, 08:05 AM
#15
well, if you insist on takin the upper trim off to replace the seal in between the trim and the roof, know that the seal is built into the trim and cannot bre replaced with an oem seal. the seal will shrink over the years and you will have to come up with something to replace it with yourself. that or you can buy the new trim from the dealer... www.blackdragonauto.com sells the trim clips in a set.
02-27-09, 09:10 AM
#16
Ray, it's all in the paint type and methodology used. My trim has an epoxy base coat followed by the same single stage acrylic urethane top coat used on the widebody. Rattle can paints are a non-catylized paint and will never hold up as well as paint bought from an autobody paint supplier, that has 2-3 components that need mixing. While the paint seems to be more expensive at $20+ a pint, that pint will go a long ways.
Stainles steel and aluminum present particularly difficult substrates for paint bonding. That's the reason for using a good self etching or epoxy primer. For small jobs like the trim, one can buy an inexpensive, (Campbell-Hausfeld $50), touch-up gun at hardware or home building centers. Once the old paint is removed, (rattle can Aircraft Pint Stripper, if trim is off of the body), and the trim is scuffed with 400 wet/dry sandpaper, wiped down with wax and grease remover or Prep-Sol, it's then simply a matter of mixing up the pro grade paints and shooting. When your paint supplier tints the paint, they can add a flattening agent to knock down the gloss and give the finished paint that needed matte look.
I don't know how many have noticed, but the door frame that holds the window tracks and the leading edge of the rear quarter glass are also painted in the matte black to match the windshield trim. Add the paint on the stock + wheels and spending the cash for professional grade paint/primer and touch-up gun starts to even out when compared to buying rattle cans, along wit the prospect of having to redo the same painting every 2-3 years.
Stainles steel and aluminum present particularly difficult substrates for paint bonding. That's the reason for using a good self etching or epoxy primer. For small jobs like the trim, one can buy an inexpensive, (Campbell-Hausfeld $50), touch-up gun at hardware or home building centers. Once the old paint is removed, (rattle can Aircraft Pint Stripper, if trim is off of the body), and the trim is scuffed with 400 wet/dry sandpaper, wiped down with wax and grease remover or Prep-Sol, it's then simply a matter of mixing up the pro grade paints and shooting. When your paint supplier tints the paint, they can add a flattening agent to knock down the gloss and give the finished paint that needed matte look.
I don't know how many have noticed, but the door frame that holds the window tracks and the leading edge of the rear quarter glass are also painted in the matte black to match the windshield trim. Add the paint on the stock + wheels and spending the cash for professional grade paint/primer and touch-up gun starts to even out when compared to buying rattle cans, along wit the prospect of having to redo the same painting every 2-3 years.
02-28-09, 07:52 PM
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But the good news is that a new replacement installed by a glass company is not that bad, about $100 for the windshield and maybe that much more to put it in. Also they will usually do this at your house. For them it is relatively easy, they smash out the old windshield, have special tools for cleaning out the old cement and special skills to get it back in without leaks.
03-01-09, 07:08 AM
#20
You're on for being my advisor when I repaint my wndow trim (again) next summer, according to your directions!
As far as replacement glass goes, I was pleasantly surprised that at least in my part of Georgia new FB windshields are readily available and no more expensive than any other windshield.
As far as replacement glass goes, I was pleasantly surprised that at least in my part of Georgia new FB windshields are readily available and no more expensive than any other windshield.
03-01-09, 07:58 AM
#21
No problem Ray, there are several of us on the forum that can advise. In fact, congratulations go out to IanS who just graduated fron autobody tech school. He has an extensive writeup in the 2nd gen forum detailing the repaint/restoration of his fiance's FC.
https://www.rx7club.com/build-threads-294/angies-fc-exterior-buildup-thread-789903/
https://www.rx7club.com/build-threads-294/angies-fc-exterior-buildup-thread-789903/
03-01-09, 08:27 AM
#22
I already cross posted the build in the non tech section. Either way actually Ray if you wanted to do it without buying a paint gun, you can buy etch primer in rattle can form although its not as good (less acid) but still should last longer than before. Best bet is how T said. That will give you best overall performance of your products.
I suggest doing yourself a favor though and buying a gravity feed gun as you wont waste any like in a siphon feed gun (where you always have some left over than wont be sucked out).
Catalysts are good and if you plan on doing it the way that T said just remember that anything that contains a catalyst or hardener contains isocyanates so please use in a WELL ventilated area. Also know that isocyanates are absorbed through the skin so wear some sort of glove to protect your hands when mixing.
Best bet since you are doing this when its warmer out either do it outside (but remember the hot sun will cause the catalysts to "kick over" faster or do it in your garage with the doors open.
Recap:
Sand with 220-240 grit paper and remove ALL old paint, or as much as you can to leave bare metal.
Etch prime
Prime
Paint/clear or paint with a single stage type paint. With/without flattening agent is up to you.
Make sure and ask your paint supply store lots of dumb questions. Also try to stay within one brand/type of paints. This will assure proper adhesion to each other for maximum life and performance.
Edit: You can remove old paint with something more coarse but sand bare metal with 220-240 range before you spray etch primers.
I suggest doing yourself a favor though and buying a gravity feed gun as you wont waste any like in a siphon feed gun (where you always have some left over than wont be sucked out).
Catalysts are good and if you plan on doing it the way that T said just remember that anything that contains a catalyst or hardener contains isocyanates so please use in a WELL ventilated area. Also know that isocyanates are absorbed through the skin so wear some sort of glove to protect your hands when mixing.
Best bet since you are doing this when its warmer out either do it outside (but remember the hot sun will cause the catalysts to "kick over" faster or do it in your garage with the doors open.
Recap:
Sand with 220-240 grit paper and remove ALL old paint, or as much as you can to leave bare metal.
Etch prime
Prime
Paint/clear or paint with a single stage type paint. With/without flattening agent is up to you.
Make sure and ask your paint supply store lots of dumb questions. Also try to stay within one brand/type of paints. This will assure proper adhesion to each other for maximum life and performance.
Edit: You can remove old paint with something more coarse but sand bare metal with 220-240 range before you spray etch primers.
Last edited by IanS; 03-01-09 at 08:49 AM.
03-01-09, 01:55 PM
#24
Powdercoat is nifty if the budget allows - figure $150. Mine is 3yrs+ now and as-new. Seems completely chip and UV resistant.
Clip kits can be bought on ebay at $12+ a set and are nice to have around when you pop the trim. Note the 79-82-ish (83?) clip kit is diff from later FBs.
Also when you pop the trim, beware of the rubber "dums" (Mazda s term) that sit behind joints, most are unobtainium now.
Blackdragon sells a nylon "pry-tool" for about $8 to pop trim off.
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
Clip kits can be bought on ebay at $12+ a set and are nice to have around when you pop the trim. Note the 79-82-ish (83?) clip kit is diff from later FBs.
Also when you pop the trim, beware of the rubber "dums" (Mazda s term) that sit behind joints, most are unobtainium now.
Blackdragon sells a nylon "pry-tool" for about $8 to pop trim off.
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
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