andernamen

iTrader: (2)

Okay, so I got my SE back this past summer after sitting for five years in the heat and humidity of Southeast North Carolina with a very dead engine. I picked up a used engine that looked pretty good but is a complete question mark as to mileage. I have been working very slowly in my cramped one car garage doing the swap out little by little. I have never done anything this major to a car before and I'm not sure what will happen.

It is just about time to turn the key, so I'm interested to see how the poll goes. Here is what I know:

The replacement motor turns freely, apex seals are free and move easily. I replaced the rear main seal and rear stator o-ring due to a lot of oil on the clutch.

New water pump.

Fuel pump tested and operating.

Fuel Tank and lines flushed, screen cleaned.

Alternator and starter checked and working fine.

Everything else on the car is the same as when it last ran five years ago and everything was working then. The injectors were taken out and cleaned, but not tested.

andernamen

iTrader: (2)

I should also point out that the replacement engine was sold as a running engine. Also, i turned the motor over already without any gas in the car, and it turns over fine.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

did it have compression spinning it over? in my experience, as long as the engine spins, and has spark and fuel, it'll run.

Qingdao

iTrader: (3)

It might run, but the coolant seals are probably all dry rotted and ready to go. And you don't know how much hieght the apex seals have left...... Just rebuild it while its out of the car, save you a lot of headache $.02.

andernamen

iTrader: (2)

This engine was meant to be temporary as i rebuild the other one. Housings and irons are fine and i have replacement rotors. Rebuild kits are so darned pricey. If it lasts a year, I'll be happy.

andernamen

iTrader: (2)

I hate to admit it, but the lone NO vote wins the first round! The car coughed a bit with starter fluid, but wouldn't do much else. Pulled the fuel line and it was dry. Next move is to jumper the fuel pump and see if it works that way. My earlier test of the fuel pump may not have been correct, may be bad after all.

LizardFC

iTrader: (1)

LOL that was me... sorry to be a pessimist, but I never underestimate a first gen's ability to not start, especially if it's fuel injected. There's a lot of little electrical things that can throw the whole process off. Jumper the pump then test voltage and volume.

DreamInRotary

iTrader: (49)

Even on a carb you can still pour fuel down the bowls to start it. Fuel injection adds a whole 'nother demon. Just keep trying and I woulda voted yes

Nicholas P.

iTrader: (1)

I took the air-horn off yesterday on mine cleaning out the jets. I found a clump of dirt in the primary so I took it out and started it. With the air horn off lol. I just went ahead and took the rest off to clean it. My engine sat for 9 years before I got it and it idles at 300 Rpm so I wouldn't worry. Just don't run it rough. Kind of like breaking in an engine.

andernamen

iTrader: (2)

Jumper test failed so i have ordered a new pump. I just hope it is plug and play.

andernamen

iTrader: (2)

I will also check voltage at the pump connector just to be sure it is not an electrical problem

andernamen

iTrader: (2)

No power at connector plug, what relays/fuses should i check? Would the ecu affect this at all? When i disconnect the efi fusible link, i hear the relay near the firewall click.

andernamen

iTrader: (2)

It LIVES! A few coolant leaks to track down and a high idle to fix, but after over ten years apart, it was sweet to hear my 7 running again. It will only run if i by pass that circuit opening relay, but i'll take that for now.