Who has the lowest 7? street legal
#1
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Who has the lowest 7? street legal
hey guys, wanted to lower my car soon, who has the lowest street driven car? and who makes what u have? how much of a drop was it
#2
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Id think if you had it too low, it would be a major pain in the neck. Speedbumps, driveways,potholes, general ridng? Im sure you can get used to it, i had to get used to having a fiberglass front air dam, and I havent ripped it off yet, just have to think a little before hand!
Here is my 13B-GSL photochopped, is that how low you want it?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...897_1_full.jpg
Here is my 13B-GSL photochopped, is that how low you want it?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...897_1_full.jpg
#4
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The exhaust on my car drags all the time. If I run down Riverside Drive here in Austin in the right lane it scrapes from I-35 to 183. One of the little rubber donuts broke, but the thing only hangs down about an inch or inch and a half from stock. Car is an '83 LE with broken down suspension.
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http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/777150
This was the way the car came with sagged and chopped springs, the rear spring was literally 3" uncompressed. It was undriveable and rubbed.
I now have eibachs on the car.
Alvin
This was the way the car came with sagged and chopped springs, the rear spring was literally 3" uncompressed. It was undriveable and rubbed.
I now have eibachs on the car.
Alvin
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well as long as someone can change my mind abot gettin a street bike mine will be scraping the ground if theyre is a pebble in the middle of the flattest smoothest ground on earth.....and im running 17's like so many ppl told me would never fit..mwhahahahaha
#12
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Originally Posted by camocarl
If me and Luiml73 had our cars that low we would rip our fiberglass front airdams off real quick!!!
I've ripped it off twice already, and it's alot higher than that photoshop I did.
#13
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Just remember,if you want to slam it( lower more than 1-1.5 inches) youll have to either use REALLY stiff springs,or use RB's strut relocation kit that raises the strut tops up and retains proper alignment.
If you lower the 1st gen too much in the front,the struts will bottom out on larger bumps and youll either be without any functional front shocks afterwards,or worse,youll lose control and end up a semi's hood ornament.
If you lower the 1st gen too much in the front,the struts will bottom out on larger bumps and youll either be without any functional front shocks afterwards,or worse,youll lose control and end up a semi's hood ornament.
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look at number two....except my spokes are black and the lips polished
http://www.phillipstyres.com/League_alloys_page.htm
whats black on mine now is about to be blue
http://www.phillipstyres.com/League_alloys_page.htm
whats black on mine now is about to be blue
#15
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Originally Posted by steve84GS TII
Just remember,if you want to slam it( lower more than 1-1.5 inches) youll have to either use REALLY stiff springs,or use RB's strut relocation kit that raises the strut tops up and retains proper alignment.
If you lower the 1st gen too much in the front,the struts will bottom out on larger bumps and youll either be without any functional front shocks afterwards,or worse,youll lose control and end up a semi's hood ornament.
If you lower the 1st gen too much in the front,the struts will bottom out on larger bumps and youll either be without any functional front shocks afterwards,or worse,youll lose control and end up a semi's hood ornament.
And lets not forget why you can't lower back more than that magical 1.5"
THE WATTS LINK!!!!
#16
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from what i know/have learnt, lowering a rear wheel drive car causes a change in the driveshaft angle which could cause output speed fluctuations and maybe vibrations....anyone have any comments?
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From what i've read around, as long as you keep the car the same level it was
(ex dropping both the back and front the same amount) that this vibration stuff woulnd't apply and excess drag from difference of air flow around the car. Anybody can correct me if that sounds wrong
(ex dropping both the back and front the same amount) that this vibration stuff woulnd't apply and excess drag from difference of air flow around the car. Anybody can correct me if that sounds wrong
#18
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Originally Posted by Mr BiG G
from what i know/have learnt, lowering a rear wheel drive car causes a change in the driveshaft angle which could cause output speed fluctuations and maybe vibrations....anyone have any comments?
#19
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there would still be a change in angle which would mean stress on the u-joints = lower driveline efficiency = powerloss in driveline. if i get a chance i want to calculate how much of an effect a 1.5 or 1" drop would have on this. first im gonna have to look and see if i can find the driveshaft, tranny, u joint angles.
#20
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Originally Posted by mivie1000@aol.com
you run into this problem more with lifting 4 wheel drive trucks. i had a 4 runner that was always eating u joints.
#21
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or u can go with a 2 piece driveshaft with a centre support bearing. a really good design i've seen is in the rx8, it has the tranny and diff at such an angle that they create a straight line, so there are u-joints but at level driving, the driveshaft is basically straight and it's a carbon fiber piece *drools*
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