Who does their own alignment again, need help???
#2
Senior Member
What alignment help you need?
Of course I have an Alignment machine at the shop but in the past I have done alignments with a tap measure/piece of string and a cheap camber/caster gauge from JC Whitney.
Of course I have an Alignment machine at the shop but in the past I have done alignments with a tap measure/piece of string and a cheap camber/caster gauge from JC Whitney.
#4
Ryan
Thread Starter
I hit the curb with the front left.
It push back the lower control arm so hard that the tension rod broke off the control arm, concaved the washer where the tension rod connects to the body
like this ~~~> ) instead of this |
bent the tie rod @ the adjuster, broke off the sway bar link and cracked the strut mount.
So luckily I had the whole strut assembly from a previous SE, control arm, swaybar link, tie rod, then replaced the tension rod washer... WHOAA! what a difference, oh yeah and replaced my bald one sided camber tread tires to some 90% tread ones. MUCH, MUCH better, now just wanna get it straight and aligned.
So if someone can pm me a write up on a do-it-yourself alignment I'd appreciate it.
Oh yeah and I cut the rear springs 2 coils and will be cutting the front to match. Car sits like this \ :rolf: tomorrow it will be like this _
Thanks !
-Ryan
It push back the lower control arm so hard that the tension rod broke off the control arm, concaved the washer where the tension rod connects to the body
like this ~~~> ) instead of this |
bent the tie rod @ the adjuster, broke off the sway bar link and cracked the strut mount.
So luckily I had the whole strut assembly from a previous SE, control arm, swaybar link, tie rod, then replaced the tension rod washer... WHOAA! what a difference, oh yeah and replaced my bald one sided camber tread tires to some 90% tread ones. MUCH, MUCH better, now just wanna get it straight and aligned.
So if someone can pm me a write up on a do-it-yourself alignment I'd appreciate it.
Oh yeah and I cut the rear springs 2 coils and will be cutting the front to match. Car sits like this \ :rolf: tomorrow it will be like this _
Thanks !
-Ryan
#5
Rotary Enthusiast
well since you hit something you are probably better off to take the car to a shop and get it aligned properly to make sure nothing else is bent. It shouldn't cost more than $30-40 for front alignment.
As for cutting the springs down it is probably not a good idea and it will blow the shocks out after a while because of increased rate and less travel in the springs.
As for cutting the springs down it is probably not a good idea and it will blow the shocks out after a while because of increased rate and less travel in the springs.
#6
Senior Member
NO!!! Don't cut your springs!! You car will ride like ****!!!!
If you do that, don't bother to do the alignment, you would not notice if you did anyway.
One of the kids working for me did that and we put some new springs back into his car shortly after.
I'm with abeomid, go ahead and pay for the alignment.
If you do that, don't bother to do the alignment, you would not notice if you did anyway.
One of the kids working for me did that and we put some new springs back into his car shortly after.
I'm with abeomid, go ahead and pay for the alignment.
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#8
aheadau
If you cut 2 coils on the rear,,,,you may be on the bump stop! You are obviously going for a "look" as opposed to performance?? Take it to a shop as you may have "tweaked" more than you think,,,,but then again,,, when they see the ride hieght,,,,,???
#9
I read your email
Originally posted by Rx7carl
I also do my own. Digital level, string, tape measure and home made toe plates, toe bar. What do you need to know?
I also do my own. Digital level, string, tape measure and home made toe plates, toe bar. What do you need to know?
#10
Airflow is my life
Hehe, I got a set of scales, a tire pyrometer and a durometer too. More racing toys/junk to spend $ on. The string and jackstand method is nice and simple. Simple toe plates and a pair of tape measures works nicely for toe. And the homemade toe bar is even easier, if you have a helping hand around.
The guys I was crewing for during speedweek last week had a nice stagger tape measure (used to measure tire circumference) and some other goodies that the roundy round guys use like a tire shaver, tire mounting machine, etc.
The guys I was crewing for during speedweek last week had a nice stagger tape measure (used to measure tire circumference) and some other goodies that the roundy round guys use like a tire shaver, tire mounting machine, etc.
#11
Ryan
Thread Starter
Originally posted by racermike
If you cut 2 coils on the rear,,,,you may be on the bump stop! You are obviously going for a "look" as opposed to performance?? Take it to a shop as you may have "tweaked" more than you think,,,,but then again,,, when they see the ride hieght,,,,,???
If you cut 2 coils on the rear,,,,you may be on the bump stop! You are obviously going for a "look" as opposed to performance?? Take it to a shop as you may have "tweaked" more than you think,,,,but then again,,, when they see the ride hieght,,,,,???
Not to sure about taking my car to a shop to look at, they see no more than I did. Im sure I know as much if not more when it comes to first gens.
Thanks for the info guys.
#12
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Newark, NY, USA
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Alignment on your own isn't hard
#1 make sure your tires are evenly spaced - the fronts can be move around with the front trailing arm thing. It attaches to the lower control arm and has an adjustable front side in a bushing. Get new poly bushings for this and look in the book for some adjustment specs - though I went by measuring to the rear wheels and looking to see how evenly spaced the lower control arm was in the front frame where it pivots.
#2 make sure the strut tops are in the proper position, you can move them around (just pivot the bearing plate 90 degrees at a time) to adjust the camber and caster - measurement specs are in the manuals. I find that the strut leaning in and to the rear of the car gets the best steering response.
#3 get some string (or two), and a stretchy spring. tie it from behind the rear tires to in front of the fronts, this will show you how much tow in you have and where your tires are pointing.
#4 Use a pen cartridge or something to space the string on the front side of the front tire, then adjust the tie rods to get the rear of the front tires just touching the string. Depending what toe in you're looking for will depend how big of a spacer to use on the tire.
Trial and error is needed to figure out the perfect alignment. You can also sight down the side of the car for a quick inspection - line up from either end of the car to see where the tires are pointing on the other end of the car.
Good luck.
#2 make sure the strut tops are in the proper position, you can move them around (just pivot the bearing plate 90 degrees at a time) to adjust the camber and caster - measurement specs are in the manuals. I find that the strut leaning in and to the rear of the car gets the best steering response.
#3 get some string (or two), and a stretchy spring. tie it from behind the rear tires to in front of the fronts, this will show you how much tow in you have and where your tires are pointing.
#4 Use a pen cartridge or something to space the string on the front side of the front tire, then adjust the tie rods to get the rear of the front tires just touching the string. Depending what toe in you're looking for will depend how big of a spacer to use on the tire.
Trial and error is needed to figure out the perfect alignment. You can also sight down the side of the car for a quick inspection - line up from either end of the car to see where the tires are pointing on the other end of the car.
Good luck.
#13
RX for fun
iTrader: (13)
Check out U-Pick U-Pull @tuxford/5 Freeway. There is a complte GSL-SE like yours. I was in a good mood that day so I left it in tack for the birds.
Originally Posted by 1984se
I hit the curb with the front left.
It push back the lower control arm so hard that the tension rod broke off the control arm, concaved the washer where the tension rod connects to the body
like this ~~~> ) instead of this |
bent the tie rod @ the adjuster, broke off the sway bar link and cracked the strut mount.
So luckily I had the whole strut assembly from a previous SE, control arm, swaybar link, tie rod, then replaced the tension rod washer... WHOAA! what a difference, oh yeah and replaced my bald one sided camber tread tires to some 90% tread ones. MUCH, MUCH better, now just wanna get it straight and aligned.
So if someone can pm me a write up on a do-it-yourself alignment I'd appreciate it.
Oh yeah and I cut the rear springs 2 coils and will be cutting the front to match. Car sits like this \ :rolf: tomorrow it will be like this _
Thanks !
-Ryan
It push back the lower control arm so hard that the tension rod broke off the control arm, concaved the washer where the tension rod connects to the body
like this ~~~> ) instead of this |
bent the tie rod @ the adjuster, broke off the sway bar link and cracked the strut mount.
So luckily I had the whole strut assembly from a previous SE, control arm, swaybar link, tie rod, then replaced the tension rod washer... WHOAA! what a difference, oh yeah and replaced my bald one sided camber tread tires to some 90% tread ones. MUCH, MUCH better, now just wanna get it straight and aligned.
So if someone can pm me a write up on a do-it-yourself alignment I'd appreciate it.
Oh yeah and I cut the rear springs 2 coils and will be cutting the front to match. Car sits like this \ :rolf: tomorrow it will be like this _
Thanks !
-Ryan
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