So ive never realy tested my brakes till few days ago
Trying to get car ready for track use have other isses tuning butthats another post thort id give the brakes some beans slam them on see what happens to my suprise left wheel locks up and car begins pulling left its bit deadly lol

I have set of k sport 356 with orrange stuff pads breaks work Perfectly

Wheel alignment has been set up

1.8deg camber front
1.5deg camber rear


Seems like a biasing problem is this somthing that any onne has come across or is it a one off

 

Caliper on that side may need pulling apart and renewing with a seal kit or whatever available renew kits there are.

I have Spirit R front calipers, so I'm not familiar with what the USDM cars run.

Its not brake bias. Brake bias refers to front/rear braking split. Nobody in their right mind biases left/right braking. That's called death bias :p

 

Do you have ABS on the car? Is the ABS light on with an error?

Dale

 

Lol
Death bias

I diddnt see any abs light flashing but will retest it again weekend may have been to quick for me to see it

Should i try switching calipers over see it it has opposite effect then ill be sure its calliper ? (They can be interchanged )

 

Bleed the system very good and test again. Do the calipers have bleeder valves on both top and bottom? This is the only way they would be interchangeable side to side. Also, some multi-piston calipers have different size trailing and leading pistons, which would mean they would only work best on the correct side.

 

Yes has bleed on top and a pipe at bottom they can be swiched over also the pistion size looked the same ( i no what u mean about piston size can be few smaller )

Will try bleed first after test run good plan

 

Pulled this pic from the internet. I don't know about the specifics of your kit so I just offered the info as a suggestion in case yours is similar.

 

I have re bleed the brake system and clutch
Not switeched the claipers yet
And now the right side front is locking up lol (thus could have been the road)
Will test more once i drive it again in few days

The abs light goes on and once started goes out
Does this mean the abs is working ?

I want to keep the abs but
Im thinking if its not working may as well rip it out

I will record the abs light on a heavy slam locking wheel up
In few days

Is there any way to diagnose if a wheel sensor is not working ?

 

You should feel the brake pedal vibrating when the abs is kicking in. Taking the ABS out will not likely help. Doesn't sound to me like you are getting complete lock up if the abs light is flashing and doing its job. Maybe you are just hearing chirps from one side or another before the abs kicks in?

 

K-sport kit that was popular over here and sold by a rotary specialist was 330. Someone the other day here mentioned they were having locking issues with a generic K-sport set they'd installed on their rally car on rough roads after running the 330 kit on the previous FD, so you might be up that nasty creek.

Way to test the sensor is resistance, there's a spec in the manual, slightly different in the later cars though...rears only from memory? Most frequent failure point is where the cable goes into the sensor - after someone forgetting it during a shock change.

Caliper fault finding method is to look at the caliper that isn't locking rather than the one that is btw.

 

How old are tires? Dried out tires will easily lock up and not necessarily evenly around all 4 corners. You could also have an abs problem, but the biasing part of it could just be a tire problem.

 

Its the right wheel that locked up after
First was the front left But could be the road serface


The tyres are 11 months old but could be bad as most of that 11 months its been off road
I will take out tomaro and get back with more info
Once i sort this out i will be tucting the rotors

 

I am going to share my similar experience, but with my 1989 BMW635CSi.
No ABS lights, but front right caliper was sticking.
BMW dealership sold me into 2 new calipers and a flush.
I thought from the beginning it was the master brake cylinder.
After new calipers, pads and a flush, I drove the car out of the dealer to have them stick again.
They ended up replacing the master brake cylinder for free and problem solved.
If your new calipers are sticking, it's because pressure is pushing them out and not letting go.
Try it and report back.

Also, on my RX7 the ABS sensor cable, was too close to the turbo and slowly got burn and front right tire locked up at the track one day.
Lost the right tire and it messed my alignment to drive 90 miles with a flat spot back home.

 

Lol you guys gona laugh!!!!!!!!

Turns out it was me being stupid
Basicly i was backing off the brake when i felt it slip so the locked wheel would stay locked lololol

Also was the road
the first time the left wheel locked up the seckond time i went the same road but the other way round and the right side locked up the road is camberd lol

So i went to a flat serface road and went nuts slammed brake beddle to floor and held it i could feel it left wheel lock up then right wheel lock up
Then peddle backfeeding then goes up
Its working
Its more of split sec lockup followd by peddle vibration