Where is the dip
05-05-15, 04:15 PM
#2
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
Oh, this is an easy one! There isn't one.
The 90w gear oil used in the manual transmissions are good for many tens of thousands of miles. When the fluid is eventually changed (50k-60k mi?), you remove the FILL BOLT FIRST, then remove the Drain Bolt on the bottom - draining the gear oil out the bottom. Then you close up the Drain Bolt making sure it's sealed, and then fill from the Fill Bolt on the side of the transmission until it overflows out the Fill hole. This is with the car sitting on level ground, of course.
The reason why you do it in this order is so you don't drain all your trans fluid out, only to find that your Fill Bolt is seized and then you can't get new 90w gear oil in!
The 90w gear oil used in the manual transmissions are good for many tens of thousands of miles. When the fluid is eventually changed (50k-60k mi?), you remove the FILL BOLT FIRST, then remove the Drain Bolt on the bottom - draining the gear oil out the bottom. Then you close up the Drain Bolt making sure it's sealed, and then fill from the Fill Bolt on the side of the transmission until it overflows out the Fill hole. This is with the car sitting on level ground, of course.
The reason why you do it in this order is so you don't drain all your trans fluid out, only to find that your Fill Bolt is seized and then you can't get new 90w gear oil in!
05-05-15, 04:54 PM
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Canada
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Oh, this is an easy one! There isn't one.
The 90w gear oil used in the manual transmissions are good for many tens of thousands of miles. When the fluid is eventually changed (50k-60k mi?), you remove the FILL BOLT FIRST, then remove the Drain Bolt on the bottom - draining the gear oil out the bottom. Then you close up the Drain Bolt making sure it's sealed, and then fill from the Fill Bolt on the side of the transmission until it overflows out the Fill hole. This is with the car sitting on level ground, of course.
The reason why you do it in this order is so you don't drain all your trans fluid out, only to find that your Fill Bolt is seized and then you can't get new 90w gear oil in!
The 90w gear oil used in the manual transmissions are good for many tens of thousands of miles. When the fluid is eventually changed (50k-60k mi?), you remove the FILL BOLT FIRST, then remove the Drain Bolt on the bottom - draining the gear oil out the bottom. Then you close up the Drain Bolt making sure it's sealed, and then fill from the Fill Bolt on the side of the transmission until it overflows out the Fill hole. This is with the car sitting on level ground, of course.
The reason why you do it in this order is so you don't drain all your trans fluid out, only to find that your Fill Bolt is seized and then you can't get new 90w gear oil in!
05-05-15, 04:59 PM
#5
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,835
Received 2,603 Likes
on
1,847 Posts
05-05-15, 05:00 PM
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Canada
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
05-05-15, 06:40 PM
#7
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
Let's look at this from another angle; the Brake Master Cylinder is hard to miss, as it's attached to that big 'ole vacuum assist drum. Right next to it - to the left, if you're facing the front of the car - is the Clutch Master Cylinder, inset closer to the firewall.
Think about where your pedals are located inside. Mazda didn't do anything tricky when it comes to layout of the pedals and matching reservoirs and hydraulic lines.
Ummmm, your car is a 'manual/stick', right? To answer your question - the clutch hydraulics and brake hydraulics all use DOT Type 3 hydraulic fluid.
Think about where your pedals are located inside. Mazda didn't do anything tricky when it comes to layout of the pedals and matching reservoirs and hydraulic lines.
Ummmm, your car is a 'manual/stick', right? To answer your question - the clutch hydraulics and brake hydraulics all use DOT Type 3 hydraulic fluid.
Trending Topics
05-05-15, 06:42 PM
#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Canada
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Let's look at this from another angle; the Brake Master Cylinder is hard to miss, as it's attached to that big 'ole vacuum assist drum. Right next to it - to the left, if you're facing the front of the car - is the Clutch Master Cylinder, inset closer to the firewall.
Think about where your pedals are located inside. Mazda didn't do anything tricky when it comes to layout of the pedals and matching reservoirs and hydraulic lines.
Ummmm, your car is a 'manual/stick', right? To answer your question - the clutch hydraulics and brake hydraulics all use DOT Type 3 hydraulic fluid.
Think about where your pedals are located inside. Mazda didn't do anything tricky when it comes to layout of the pedals and matching reservoirs and hydraulic lines.
Ummmm, your car is a 'manual/stick', right? To answer your question - the clutch hydraulics and brake hydraulics all use DOT Type 3 hydraulic fluid.
05-05-15, 06:45 PM
#9
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,835
Received 2,603 Likes
on
1,847 Posts
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post