12A turbo ignition help
#1
12A turbo ignition help
i currently bought a 1960 vw with a 12a engine with a blowthrough turbo setup. my question is about the ignition wiring. the current setup is 2 msd digital plus boxs powering 3 msd blaster ss-8207 coils. What would be the correct wiring and will all the features work fine such as the 2 step??
#5
talking head
find a genuine 12aT boost retard dizzy ... you have a standard s2 dizzy,, set up DFI style with MSD
the MSD packs replace the igniters
one MSD pack runs two leading coils in DF.. other runs the trailing through the dizzy cap
spin the dizzy by hand and see if you have sparks
the MSD packs replace the igniters
one MSD pack runs two leading coils in DF.. other runs the trailing through the dizzy cap
spin the dizzy by hand and see if you have sparks
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#12
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Are you using the VW starter? Those things seem to have trouble starting rotaries unless everything is close to perfect. Jeff20B had to hook one up to 24 volts to get it to start a fresh rebuild a few weeks back.
#15
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The car had two batteries in it already so I got a Ford fender mounted starter solenoid from the local auto parts store, and connected the two batteries in series through it. It is rated at 12V, so hooking it this way does not make it see 24V. In other words it should last a good long while as it will not be used beyond its rated capacity.
One battery runs the car (ignition, fuel pump, lights etc) and is always at 12V regardless of the Ford solenoid's status. The other battery goes to the starter only and transitions from 12V most of the time to 24V only when the key is in "start" mode. This allows it to be charged from a 12V alternator.
The original VW solenoid activation wire is rerouted into the car, it connects to the Ford solenoid to activate it (the S terminal). The Ford solenoid has another small terminal marked "I" (means ignition - meant for old points setups be we can use it here) that connects to a simple 12V 30A automotive relay which will allow 24V to go to the VW starter solenoid. I discovered 24V to the VW solenoid is required to reliably allow it to jump out into the flywheel ring gear when the starter itself is running at 24V. Trying to leave the VW solenoid at 12V made it grind a little. It needs 24V! The starter is just way too ferocious at 24V.
I also upped the wire size feeding the starter from a measly 4 or 6 gauge to a thick 1 gauge.
For charging, you will need a battery isolator. Also at least two 5 pin 12V 30A automotive relays which together will carry a 60 amp load. Also use fuses to protect stuff.
Use pin 87A. This will let the isolator send some juice from the alternator through the relays when they're off. The relays will be switched on only when the system is at 24V. Use the original VW solenoid activation wire for this as well (or the I terminal of the Ford solenoid - make your own decision about that). Remember these relays are designed to trigger at 12V, not 24 so be careful.
If you burn you car down, I don't want to here about it.
One battery runs the car (ignition, fuel pump, lights etc) and is always at 12V regardless of the Ford solenoid's status. The other battery goes to the starter only and transitions from 12V most of the time to 24V only when the key is in "start" mode. This allows it to be charged from a 12V alternator.
The original VW solenoid activation wire is rerouted into the car, it connects to the Ford solenoid to activate it (the S terminal). The Ford solenoid has another small terminal marked "I" (means ignition - meant for old points setups be we can use it here) that connects to a simple 12V 30A automotive relay which will allow 24V to go to the VW starter solenoid. I discovered 24V to the VW solenoid is required to reliably allow it to jump out into the flywheel ring gear when the starter itself is running at 24V. Trying to leave the VW solenoid at 12V made it grind a little. It needs 24V! The starter is just way too ferocious at 24V.
I also upped the wire size feeding the starter from a measly 4 or 6 gauge to a thick 1 gauge.
For charging, you will need a battery isolator. Also at least two 5 pin 12V 30A automotive relays which together will carry a 60 amp load. Also use fuses to protect stuff.
Use pin 87A. This will let the isolator send some juice from the alternator through the relays when they're off. The relays will be switched on only when the system is at 24V. Use the original VW solenoid activation wire for this as well (or the I terminal of the Ford solenoid - make your own decision about that). Remember these relays are designed to trigger at 12V, not 24 so be careful.
If you burn you car down, I don't want to here about it.
#16
hmm il look in to that. this really is pissing me off! tonight i tried roll starting it a couple of times and still nothing at all...no pop....no nothing. is there any way to check my ignition timing to be sure it is right?? i know i am easly getting fuel if not too much...
#21
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I own this bug now
Well I am now the owner of this same 12 powered VW bug. It has since had an engine swap I was told but still having issues with the wiring of the 2 msd boxes. It's getting fuel but no spark. Just thought I would comment on this. Haha
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