Wheel bearing longevity question
05-20-11, 11:59 AM
#1
Wheel bearing longevity question
So if you don't know already, I had to tow my FB home from DGRR this year. I had my right front wheel bearing (which I replaced not 2 years/5k miles ago) disintegrate and seize to my spindle. I replaced inner and outer wheel bearings, along with races, brake rotor, and inner dust seal about 2 years ago (~5k miles). On the drive down my nut somehow loosened, so I tightened it along the highway and everything was fine (checked it again during the Friday morning drive at DGRR that included the Skyway and the Dragon. still tight). What I'm wondering is this:
What would increase the life of a wheel bearing, and what would cause such a catastrophic failure? I haven't had a chance to disassemble everything (trying to source new parts before I dig into it), but I do know that the brake rotor is stuck currently. I am running:
S2 front spindles (small bearing)
15x7 Enkei 92's with a +7 offset
Potenza RE11 tires (180 treadwear rating).
Could it be the high-offset wheels? Small bearings not being as robust?
Thanks
-Jim
What would increase the life of a wheel bearing, and what would cause such a catastrophic failure? I haven't had a chance to disassemble everything (trying to source new parts before I dig into it), but I do know that the brake rotor is stuck currently. I am running:
S2 front spindles (small bearing)
15x7 Enkei 92's with a +7 offset
Potenza RE11 tires (180 treadwear rating).
Could it be the high-offset wheels? Small bearings not being as robust?
Thanks
-Jim
05-20-11, 12:31 PM
#3
Waffles - hmmm good
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I would bet it was a culmination of events thats caused it. Running loose for awhile
could have overheated or warped some surfaces and or toasted some bearings.
Then tightening it down too tight on the side of the road or just tightening it to spec
may have then aggrevated the issue. Running 7 inch wide 15 inch wheels definitely
may have stressed the smaller wheel bearings. Then taking it on the NC mountain
roads which will maximize any stress already there and I think you had a recipe for
failure.
A tear down may reveal something but its hard to say. If the rotor is seized then
you can pretty much count on things having grenaded in there and making a mess.
So it may be local to that wheel but I would replace all the same parts on the
otherside as well. It could be just on the verge of doing the same thing. I always
do bearings and brakes on the whole axle for that reason. You can get away with
just doing fronts or just rears for whatever reasons but never fix just one side of the
axle because the other has seen the same usage and probably will fail shortly as well.
could have overheated or warped some surfaces and or toasted some bearings.
Then tightening it down too tight on the side of the road or just tightening it to spec
may have then aggrevated the issue. Running 7 inch wide 15 inch wheels definitely
may have stressed the smaller wheel bearings. Then taking it on the NC mountain
roads which will maximize any stress already there and I think you had a recipe for
failure.
A tear down may reveal something but its hard to say. If the rotor is seized then
you can pretty much count on things having grenaded in there and making a mess.
So it may be local to that wheel but I would replace all the same parts on the
otherside as well. It could be just on the verge of doing the same thing. I always
do bearings and brakes on the whole axle for that reason. You can get away with
just doing fronts or just rears for whatever reasons but never fix just one side of the
axle because the other has seen the same usage and probably will fail shortly as well.
05-20-11, 12:38 PM
#4
I would bet it was a culmination of events thats caused it. Running loose for awhile
could have overheated or warped some surfaces and or toasted some bearings.
Then tightening it down too tight on the side of the road or just tightening it to spec
may have then aggrevated the issue. Running 7 inch wide 15 inch wheels definitely
may have stressed the smaller wheel bearings. Then taking it on the NC mountain
roads which will maximize any stress already there and I think you had a recipe for
failure.
A tear down may reveal something but its hard to say. If the rotor is seized then
you can pretty much count on things having grenaded in there and making a mess.
So it may be local to that wheel but I would replace all the same parts on the
otherside as well. It could be just on the verge of doing the same thing. I always
do bearings and brakes on the whole axle for that reason. You can get away with
just doing fronts or just rears for whatever reasons but never fix just one side of the
axle because the other has seen the same usage and probably will fail shortly as well.
could have overheated or warped some surfaces and or toasted some bearings.
Then tightening it down too tight on the side of the road or just tightening it to spec
may have then aggrevated the issue. Running 7 inch wide 15 inch wheels definitely
may have stressed the smaller wheel bearings. Then taking it on the NC mountain
roads which will maximize any stress already there and I think you had a recipe for
failure.
A tear down may reveal something but its hard to say. If the rotor is seized then
you can pretty much count on things having grenaded in there and making a mess.
So it may be local to that wheel but I would replace all the same parts on the
otherside as well. It could be just on the verge of doing the same thing. I always
do bearings and brakes on the whole axle for that reason. You can get away with
just doing fronts or just rears for whatever reasons but never fix just one side of the
axle because the other has seen the same usage and probably will fail shortly as well.
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05-20-11, 01:11 PM
#8
Another upside (since you're building a turbo 12a and need all the brakes you can get) with the big bearing front end you can get the bolt-in Re-Speed BBK (provided you can source a set of TII calipers and rotors, and have a spare set of 15" 5x114.3 wheels with the proper offset laying around)
05-20-11, 02:51 PM
#12
Another upside (since you're building a turbo 12a and need all the brakes you can get) with the big bearing front end you can get the bolt-in Re-Speed BBK (provided you can source a set of TII calipers and rotors, and have a spare set of 15" 5x114.3 wheels with the proper offset laying around)
Which is what I am doing. Have everything ready to go in but the 4 lug FC hubs. TII brakes on an FB will be crazy (in a good way).I want to say offset for the 13'' 4 spoke wheels is +18. May have been 14, I have a lot of numbers running around in my head lately.
05-20-11, 09:59 PM
#13
I got about 20 years total run time out of my first set of bearings (they were 10 years old when Igot them). Still on the second. I repack them everytime I change brake pads.
Setting pre-load accurately takes some doing - - it's way tighter than most people expect it to be.
Setting pre-load accurately takes some doing - - it's way tighter than most people expect it to be.
05-20-11, 10:18 PM
#14
Lives on the Forum
I had a right front bearing issue also, although I made it home okay. I found that the inner grease seal (dust seal?) had fallen apart.
It can also be difficult to set the proper preload on the bearing during installation.
Use Lucas grease. And, if you have a grease gun, then I highly recommend the bearing packer that they sell at autozone. Works great.
It can also be difficult to set the proper preload on the bearing during installation.
Use Lucas grease. And, if you have a grease gun, then I highly recommend the bearing packer that they sell at autozone. Works great.
05-20-11, 10:59 PM
#15
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I got about 20 years total run time out of my first set of bearings (they were 10 years old when Igot them). Still on the second. I repack them everytime I change brake pads.
Setting pre-load accurately takes some doing - - it's way tighter than most people expect it to be.
Setting pre-load accurately takes some doing - - it's way tighter than most people expect it to be.
05-21-11, 01:41 PM
#17
I go by FSM standards, which are plenty tight enough. I don't have FB numbers ( as I don't have an FB) but SA preload is 0.99-1.43 lbs force at the lug diameter required to begin rotation.
The book shows using a spring scale (like a fish scale) horizontally, but I use 1-lb dive weights vertically suspended by a wire from a lug bolt.
If you don't have either, you can also use the alternate method of tightening the hub nut till it binds completely, then back off 60 degrees (1/6 turn).
The book shows using a spring scale (like a fish scale) horizontally, but I use 1-lb dive weights vertically suspended by a wire from a lug bolt.
If you don't have either, you can also use the alternate method of tightening the hub nut till it binds completely, then back off 60 degrees (1/6 turn).
05-21-11, 05:27 PM
#18
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I go by FSM standards, which are plenty tight enough. I don't have FB numbers ( as I don't have an FB) but SA preload is 0.99-1.43 lbs force at the lug diameter required to begin rotation.
The book shows using a spring scale (like a fish scale) horizontally, but I use 1-lb dive weights vertically suspended by a wire from a lug bolt.
If you don't have either, you can also use the alternate method of tightening the hub nut till it binds completely, then back off 60 degrees (1/6 turn).
The book shows using a spring scale (like a fish scale) horizontally, but I use 1-lb dive weights vertically suspended by a wire from a lug bolt.
If you don't have either, you can also use the alternate method of tightening the hub nut till it binds completely, then back off 60 degrees (1/6 turn).
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