So I thought I had it running right. Today I finaly got the drive the zuk. Just a test run in the driveway. Started up good. I let it warm up and it seemed to rev a bit slow but not too bad. It would rev to red line. So it gave it some gas and let the clutch out. And it was gutless. Bogged down and died. No matter how much gas I gave it could not get it to run and drive.

So I turned it off and put up the hood (left the fuel pump running). Gas was pooring into the carb. Overflowing out the top even. So I started checking stuff. The vent solinoid is connected. The sight glasses were full. Next I tapped on the top to try to unstick the floats, nothing. So I turned off the ignition to shut down the fuel pump. Then the bowl drained into the carb. Talk about flooded. ****. What the hell is going on here? I rebuilt the carb and everything seemed great. Now it is all to hell. Please help?

 

What pressure are you running? Are you running a return line? Regulator?

 

Yea I was running a 9 psi pump with holly 1-4 psi regulator. That was my frist thought. So put the stock pump back on. Same problem.

 

PB&J Racing I need help. BTW what is a standard rebuild going to cost and the price on one of those fancy hiperformance rebuilds?

 

Anybody?

 

http://www.sterlingmetalworks.com/price_list.html

 

Even though the needle and seat are new, they may not seat right , right away. I think I read a response by Sterling, or Carl relating to this. Try a search, on floats sticking,
I rebuilt mine and had good luck.

 

Sorry , proxy error.

 

I've experienced this exact flooding problem on several cars. It's almost always a stuck needle and seat, usually buildup causing it. Though, once it was a clogged return line.

edit: has also been caused by too much fuel pressure

 

The fact that the fuel drained out of the float bowls once you shut it down, suggests to me that your floats/needle valves are sticking open.

I believe this is a fairly commond problem with fresh rebuilds. Unfortunately, you might have to pull the top back off the carb again to free them up if bangin on it did not shake them loose.

Sorry to hear that you are still having issues with it man, but hang in there! It will be worth it in the end...

 

Thanks guys. I will keep at it.

 

I think it's probably the needle & seat. It's a problem with these carbs upon initial rebuild, and I think it's mostly due to the rather crudely punched-out needle levers that are moulded into the floats. The needle retaining clip can spin around and catch on a tiny bur on the float tab.
Of course, it'll change position as soon as you lift the top off the carb, and when you put it back on, it might (probably) be fixed, and so it remains a mystery.
-The real bad stuff happens when people start messing with bending the tabs.

 

Okay it seem to have stopped flooding. But still is gutless an hell. It just won't go. I rev it to four grand and let the clutch out slow. And it dies. No matter how much gas I give it won't go. And the rpms climb so slow. And now it is backfiring out the carb. I think the motor may be toast. BTW it has new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, fuel lines, rebuilt carb which ran simular to the way it does now but with power, and coils. I double checked the timing and the the advance with a timing gun. Is it possible that an ingnitor is bad and still firing a plug? Maybe a week coil? I did the swoosh test and it sounded good.

Any ideas out there?

 

It sounds like it is retarded (timing wise ). Are you sure that you got the plugs wires all back in the correct position and the your leading coil connects to the leading igniter, trailing coil connects to the trailing igniter? When I replaced the engine in the SA that I used to have, the dizzy was off a tooth or so and experienced similar problems (had to pump th gas to keep it running, backfire though the carb, no power, etc.). Once I advanced the dizzy to where it was suppose to be, it smoothed out and the backfires went away.

 

Yea I just went out and checked the wires. Funny thing is I can change the coil wires from trailing to leading and it runs the same. I can put them back and change the ignitor wires on the coils and it runs the same. no matter how I switch them it runs the same. What the Hell?

 

Do you have spark to all plugs? You timed off L1 and T1, correct? Don't know what else to suggest.

 

Yea but there is snake in the wood pile. And I think I might be close.

 

Everything looks right it has to be carburation (spell)

 

I'm open for anything please help?

 

I have to agree with GSL-SE addict on this one. Backfiring through the carb is the key point. If you think about what would possibly cause it to do that, it keeps coming back to the spark hitting at the wrong point in the combustion cycle.

I may be full of ****, but that's the only thing that sounds right to me. Timing, timing, timing, etc...... Have you tried adjusting the dizzy with a BFH yet (j/k)?