What do you loctite when rebuilding a motor?
04-20-10, 02:24 PM
#1
What do you loctite when rebuilding a motor?
What do you think of using blue loctite on these items during a rebuild.
Eccentric shaft bolt
4 oil pump bolts
oil pump shaft nut
6 front stationary gear bolts
2 oil pickup tube bolts
6 rear stationary gear bolts
Rear eccentric shaft NUT
All of the studs for Moroso oil pan
And some superglue to hold the oil pump key in before installing it's sprocket.
Should the front cover bolts go on dry or with anti-seize or loctite?
Eccentric shaft bolt
4 oil pump bolts
oil pump shaft nut
6 front stationary gear bolts
2 oil pickup tube bolts
6 rear stationary gear bolts
Rear eccentric shaft NUT
All of the studs for Moroso oil pan
And some superglue to hold the oil pump key in before installing it's sprocket.
Should the front cover bolts go on dry or with anti-seize or loctite?
04-22-10, 10:54 PM
#5
djessence
I was fairly certain that loctite is broken down by heat as well (or has been my experience) so really on a good portion of those parts it wont accomplish anything... just my 2 cents
04-23-10, 09:50 AM
#7
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,802
Received 2,577 Likes
on
1,831 Posts
yeah i don't use it either
mazda has a little lock tab jobby thing for the front E shaft bolt, its an N350 part number, so it should be in the 89-91 fisch, they also used it 94+
mazda has a little lock tab jobby thing for the front E shaft bolt, its an N350 part number, so it should be in the 89-91 fisch, they also used it 94+
Trending Topics
04-24-10, 03:05 PM
#9
Yeah, shutup kid.
As long as it's blue loctite, use it wherever you feel necessary, it's safe for aluminum and comes apart pretty easy. The red is a pain to break loose, and you need a torch to remove stuff with green loctite. The only thing I've ever used loctite on is the front pulley bolt.
04-24-10, 06:07 PM
#10
When I took my pro built motor apart there was loctite on most of the above items, plus on both oil pressure regulators which is why I'm asking. It was a light green color stuff and a real drag to get off the threads. Cordless Impact wrench took it off fine except for front pulley bolt and flywheel nut which were a royal total bitch.
I'm thinking blue automotive loctite coldy. I've used that on both ends of the eshaft and was bearable to remove. That green stuff, even with 20 minutes of propane torch was still tough as nails.
I don't want the loctite to melt and run, that could be catastrophic. Blue is good for 300*F. I've already done the rear gear but it sounds like few here loctite a motor. I'd think with all the vibrations stuff would come loose w/o it but I've done overkill before.
I'm thinking blue automotive loctite coldy. I've used that on both ends of the eshaft and was bearable to remove. That green stuff, even with 20 minutes of propane torch was still tough as nails.
I don't want the loctite to melt and run, that could be catastrophic. Blue is good for 300*F. I've already done the rear gear but it sounds like few here loctite a motor. I'd think with all the vibrations stuff would come loose w/o it but I've done overkill before.
07-18-16, 10:37 AM
#12
djessence
What kind of update are you looking for?
DriveFast7 covered it pretty well as do any of the various manuals for reassembling the motor.
Also I would say more importantly than loctiting things because you worry they will vibrate loose is getting proper torques on then. Pretensioned bolts (to design torque) shouldn't come loose unless the bolt is already fatigues and fails (engine tension bolts are technically supposed to be replaced every time).
DriveFast7 covered it pretty well as do any of the various manuals for reassembling the motor.
Also I would say more importantly than loctiting things because you worry they will vibrate loose is getting proper torques on then. Pretensioned bolts (to design torque) shouldn't come loose unless the bolt is already fatigues and fails (engine tension bolts are technically supposed to be replaced every time).
07-18-16, 08:15 PM
#13
Motor still runs! I used blue loctite gel in all the spots I mentioned. Lately I've put 5000 miles annually on the motor, including trips from L.A. up to Northern California and everything inbetween. Autocrossed it several times in the HOT summer. Haven't found any blue loctite in the oil filters, and I cut each one open.
Using it on the oil pan studs and nuts were especially a good idea (if you use those, which are also a good idea). The previous engine builder (not me) did not use blue loctite on those, and several had un-threaded.
Make sure you use *blue* which is removable, not red which is permanent.
On the topic of thread lockers, but this one can't handle the temperature of a rotary engine. They also sell this stuff called Vibra-Tite VC-3 which is designed to handle vibrations. It also is designed for the fastner to be adjusted a few times, which is not what a rotor motor application is. But works a treat on RC wheel nuts and a ball differential screw.
Using it on the oil pan studs and nuts were especially a good idea (if you use those, which are also a good idea). The previous engine builder (not me) did not use blue loctite on those, and several had un-threaded.
Make sure you use *blue* which is removable, not red which is permanent.
On the topic of thread lockers, but this one can't handle the temperature of a rotary engine. They also sell this stuff called Vibra-Tite VC-3 which is designed to handle vibrations. It also is designed for the fastner to be adjusted a few times, which is not what a rotor motor application is. But works a treat on RC wheel nuts and a ball differential screw.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
