What is the best mod for 1981 rx7
Look at the 1st gen FAQ. It is the 4th thread in the sticky threads at the top of the main 1st gen page. Simple answer is start with a free flowing exhaust system. Probably want to look at the third thread also and download a copy of the Factory Service Manual.
Wrkn Toyota, Rootn Wankel
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From: "Haystack" Hayward, CA
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Jeeze, where did all the smart asses in this forum go? 
As stated, research first. But here are the basics:
Exhaust
Carb
Porting of the motor/engine swap/turbo
Most of it depends on what you want out of the car, and how deep your pockets are.
.
As stated, research first. But here are the basics:
Exhaust
Carb
Porting of the motor/engine swap/turbo
Most of it depends on what you want out of the car, and how deep your pockets are.
.
Joined: May 2002
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From: Ottawa, Soviet Canuckistan
In the order I would go, where you're looking for "power":
- Racing Beat Exhaust System
- Sterling Carb
- Fuel System Upgrades to go with your Sterling (Mallory, Carter or Holley pump, Holley 1-4psi FPR, ReSpeed fuel pressure gauge)
- Lightweight Flywheel (Racing Beat lightweight steel is good, and so are their street/strip clutch discs and pressure plates)
- Ignition Upgrades (search 2GDFIS, DLIDFIS, Transistor Trick, or if you're feeling adventurous you could build a Megasquirt and only use the Ignition portion of it with a 2nd Gen CAS and Coil)
- Rebuild and Port the Engine
But before you go for "power" you should get a bit of "control"
- Brakes (Hawk Pads, Stainless Steel Lines, New Rotors, maybe look at the awesome Re-Speed Big Brake kit)
- Springs (RB, Eibach)
- Shocks/Struts (KYB, Tokico)
- Sway Bars (RB, Re-Speed, Suspension Techniques)
- Bushings (Poly in front, Stock-style rubber in rear)
- ReSpeed Rack and Pinion Steering Kit (worth its weight in Gold in my opinion)
This post should be entitled "How do dump a ton of money on awesome upgrades for your FB in about 5 minutes"
Jon
- Racing Beat Exhaust System
- Sterling Carb
- Fuel System Upgrades to go with your Sterling (Mallory, Carter or Holley pump, Holley 1-4psi FPR, ReSpeed fuel pressure gauge)
- Lightweight Flywheel (Racing Beat lightweight steel is good, and so are their street/strip clutch discs and pressure plates)
- Ignition Upgrades (search 2GDFIS, DLIDFIS, Transistor Trick, or if you're feeling adventurous you could build a Megasquirt and only use the Ignition portion of it with a 2nd Gen CAS and Coil)
- Rebuild and Port the Engine
But before you go for "power" you should get a bit of "control"
- Brakes (Hawk Pads, Stainless Steel Lines, New Rotors, maybe look at the awesome Re-Speed Big Brake kit)
- Springs (RB, Eibach)
- Shocks/Struts (KYB, Tokico)
- Sway Bars (RB, Re-Speed, Suspension Techniques)
- Bushings (Poly in front, Stock-style rubber in rear)
- ReSpeed Rack and Pinion Steering Kit (worth its weight in Gold in my opinion)
This post should be entitled "How do dump a ton of money on awesome upgrades for your FB in about 5 minutes"
Jon
Joined: May 2002
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From: Ottawa, Soviet Canuckistan
Oh, and if you swap a piston engine in, most of us are gonna smack you... before we ship you off to the "Other Engine Conversions" subforum where you'll be very much welcome 
Jon
Jon
Stu has got it. A good driver is all you need with a 12A (a 12A's a 1st gen, for you young guys). Anybody driving 12A's because of the testosterone injection has their head up their ***.
It's about the Zoooom, the breeeeezzzzz of that rotary engine sounding like an air pump at 80 mph, cruising down the interstate using up all that road the other cars can't.
It's the Rotary Love, all 1100 cc's and 130 HP, just making you happy. Who needs more than that?
Just make sure you've got a good chassis, a properly tuned Nikki and go.
PS: An RB exhaust also helps.
It's about the Zoooom, the breeeeezzzzz of that rotary engine sounding like an air pump at 80 mph, cruising down the interstate using up all that road the other cars can't.
It's the Rotary Love, all 1100 cc's and 130 HP, just making you happy. Who needs more than that?
Just make sure you've got a good chassis, a properly tuned Nikki and go.
PS: An RB exhaust also helps.
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 5,972
Likes: 37
From: Ottawa, Soviet Canuckistan
Stu has got it. A good driver is all you need with a 12A (a 12A's a 1st gen, for you young guys). Anybody driving 12A's because of the testosterone injection has their head up their ***.
It's about the Zoooom, the breeeeezzzzz of that rotary engine sounding like an air pump at 80 mph, cruising down the interstate using up all that road the other cars can't.
It's the Rotary Love, all 1100 cc's and 130 HP, just making you happy. Who needs more than that?
Just make sure you've got a good chassis, a properly tuned Nikki and go.
PS: An RB exhaust also helps.
It's about the Zoooom, the breeeeezzzzz of that rotary engine sounding like an air pump at 80 mph, cruising down the interstate using up all that road the other cars can't.
It's the Rotary Love, all 1100 cc's and 130 HP, just making you happy. Who needs more than that?
Just make sure you've got a good chassis, a properly tuned Nikki and go.
PS: An RB exhaust also helps.
Either you're trying to confuse the newbies, or that alzheimers is setting in early
Jon
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From: Grand Rapids Michigan
I will also second the "control" aspect. I compete in autocrosses, and do quite well. I do this with extensive suspension modifications, a nice carb, exhaust, but with a completely stock 12a. Even with the stock motor, I always say that I've never lost a race due to a lack of horsepower.
Do things in this order, and you can't go wrong:
1. Safety (brakes, steering parts, bushings)
2. Reliability (tuneup items, removing what doesn't have to be there, replacing worn equipment).
3. Performance (suspension, tires, carb, exhaust)
4. Appearance (why waste a good paint job by continually working on the car?)
Do things in this order, and you can't go wrong:
1. Safety (brakes, steering parts, bushings)
2. Reliability (tuneup items, removing what doesn't have to be there, replacing worn equipment).
3. Performance (suspension, tires, carb, exhaust)
4. Appearance (why waste a good paint job by continually working on the car?)
Jon, 13B's were experimental 12A's. They didn't quite work out right. Good thing they were discontinued. And the extra 12A HP (101--> 130 HP) comes from the RB exhaust, best thing you can do to your FB. I'm not going to argue the Alzheimer's.
Now if we could just get Mazda to focus on the 12A again, get back to basics, we'd be ready for the 4th gen RX-7. Gonna look like a first gen of course. Can you imagine, pop ups on a 2012 vehicle? YES!
Now Kent, on the racing thing, you are probably correct, HP (+ some handling) = Win
Now if we could just get Mazda to focus on the 12A again, get back to basics, we'd be ready for the 4th gen RX-7. Gonna look like a first gen of course. Can you imagine, pop ups on a 2012 vehicle? YES!
Now Kent, on the racing thing, you are probably correct, HP (+ some handling) = Win
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From: Ottawa, Soviet Canuckistan
I think he means the 130 that the RB exhaust gives with the optional muffler bearing kit...
Ie: once he said the 13b experimental thing I knew he was joking
Jon
Ie: once he said the 13b experimental thing I knew he was joking
Jon
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 5,972
Likes: 37
From: Ottawa, Soviet Canuckistan
I think he means the 130 that the RB exhaust gives with the optional muffler bearing kit...
Ie: once he said the 13b experimental thing I knew he was joking
Jon
Ie: once he said the 13b experimental thing I knew he was joking
Jon
I have more than just exhaust mods but its a stock port 12a with 108k on it and I
get 134 whp. See my sig for the mods.
I changed some things since that dyno run and I expect I gained at least more
torque if not actual horse power.
See my sig for suggested mods. They all contribute in some way.
get 134 whp. See my sig for the mods.
I changed some things since that dyno run and I expect I gained at least more
torque if not actual horse power.
See my sig for suggested mods. They all contribute in some way.
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 5,972
Likes: 37
From: Ottawa, Soviet Canuckistan
I have more than just exhaust mods but its a stock port 12a with 108k on it and I
get 134 whp. See my sig for the mods.
I changed some things since that dyno run and I expect I gained at least more
torque if not actual horse power.
See my sig for suggested mods. They all contribute in some way.
get 134 whp. See my sig for the mods.
I changed some things since that dyno run and I expect I gained at least more
torque if not actual horse power.
See my sig for suggested mods. They all contribute in some way.
<Yoda Voice>
When 230k your engine reaches, run as well it will not
</Yoda Voice>