79 T2 motor wih a t2 trans stock flywheel ACT 6 puck disk
I have noticed that its hard to get into gear, I thought it might be the hose from the master to the slave. So i changed it, there was no difference.

As i was bleeding the slave. I noticed the firewall was flexing quite a bit.

Could that be my problem, and is there a fix for this.

 

Is the pressure plate stronger than stock? If the firewall is flexing enough it could easily be the problem, the pedal isn't pushing the cylinder enough to fully release the clutch since the cylinder is moving away from the pedal. Is there any rust around the clutch master cylinder? Only fix would to be to fix the rust if there is any and weld on some braces in that area.

 

Sounds likey, if the firewall is flexing. But by how much is the firewall flexing? You may want to consider installing braces there to stiffen the firewall, though I suspect as the guy above stated, it could be due to rust.

 

yes the after Act heavy duty street disk is much stiffer then stock, it also has the Act HD pressure plate. There is no rust on this car at all. Like i said i thought it might be the hose.

Does mazda trix, or someone make a brace or a bracket for this ???

 

ive heard of people adding another layer of sheetmetal but a brace to the strut tower would be more effective, imo

 

Hyper4mance2K made a firewall-to-strut-tower brace for his brake master, said it helped tremendously. I bet you could do something similar for the clutch master.

 

The pressure plate that came with my ACT puck clutch felt like crap - very long travel.

I could swear that the clutch master bolted to the pedal assembly instead of just the firewall (like Audi did).

In any event, it will never have very good feel, since ACT decided to give it a REALLY long travel in order to make the action lighter. I'd rather have short travel and a really stiff pedal, but I'm weird that way

 

I wanted to work on it today , but didn't get the chance.

YO Adrian, you have any pictures of it ?
This has to be the problem, because I'm not losing any fluid. I think i will look at the trany fluid also. It doesn't leak, but worth a look.

 

if its hard to get into gear with the engine running, the pilor bearing may be failing or hanging up a tad on the input shaft. if its easy to put in gear with the engine off, the i think that you may want to look into the pilot bearing. the firewall flex is fairly common and while its not exactly optimal, there have been few complaints about it over the years. racing beat sells a brace to prevent shuddering: http://www.racingbeat.com/FRmazda1.htm its located under "engine external" and they call it a torque brace.

 

Heres the direct link to what the poster above is talking about, but I dont think it will help with this issue.
http://www.racingbeat.com/Mazda-Perf...rtNumber=14030



~T.J.

 

no, it wont help with firewall flex but would stiffen the trans up some

 

I had a major problem with firewall flex after upgrading my clutch and pressure plate to a stronger unit.

I'm running a 13Bt and S4t box.

I put a piece of 2mm sheet metal in between the firewall and master on the engine bay side and it seemed to work ok, but the pedal was very hard to push in.

I took it in to my mechanic about an unrelated problem and when I got the car back it felt like there was almost no clutch the pedal was that easy to push in again!

When I asked what they had done the owner said "some ******** put a metal plate in between the master and firewall, so we did our mod that puts the pressure back onto the clutch rather than outwards onto the firewall"

I didn't pay much attention to what he was going on about at the time, I was just happy the car was running well again.

I'll try give them a call and see if I can get a detailed explanation of what was done. I think he may have said something about flipping a diaphram around or some ****, but I can't be sure!!!

Cam...

 

The stock firewall is pathetic. The break master cylinder brace I made made a bigger difference for break feel than braided lines did.

 

Well thanks for all the input, not sure what i'm going to try first. When the car is not runing it does go into gear easy, and when its runing its harer to get into gear, but seens to get better as the car warns up.
I back it into the shop now, so i dont have to go through the trouble of starting it in reverse. lol

Thanks, I'll post what happing.