Watts Link: vague feeling. OEM vs Urethane?
04-02-13, 09:09 PM
#26
Nice to see pics of my tri-link are still making the rounds. The panhard rod handles lateral location, it doesn't move much left to right. Heims in the 3rd link let it twist as needed. Haven't needed to add any more bracing but couldn't hurt. It's already stronger than Mazda's upper link brackets by a long shot.
Oh and with the heims it rattles like hell, would not recommend heims on the street. Use poly bushings instead.
Brad
Oh and with the heims it rattles like hell, would not recommend heims on the street. Use poly bushings instead.
Brad
Glad to hear the poly is working for you Rotary-MG. You never know until you actually try it I guess.
04-05-13, 11:57 AM
#28
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 2,014
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just installed the poly bushings in the rear of my car. I'll let you know how I like them when I get the car back on the road soon.
I'm thinking of thrying the nylon lock nut trick to see how that feels.
I'm thinking of thrying the nylon lock nut trick to see how that feels.
04-29-13, 02:02 AM
#31
Ive been recently pricing out upgrading my whole watts unit, and its not turning out to be too expensive. Im planning on replacing the center pivot bushing with a urethane one from a bushing set I bought ages ago and never installed, and make some new arms for the watts out of some heavy duty heims. So far Im only up to around $90 for everything. I can really think of any reason not too, especially as Mazda Motorsports sells pretty much this exact setup in their own catalog 
04-29-13, 06:01 PM
#32
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,841
Received 2,604 Likes
on
1,847 Posts
Ive been recently pricing out upgrading my whole watts unit, and its not turning out to be too expensive. Im planning on replacing the center pivot bushing with a urethane one from a bushing set I bought ages ago and never installed, and make some new arms for the watts out of some heavy duty heims. So far Im only up to around $90 for everything. I can really think of any reason not too, especially as Mazda Motorsports sells pretty much this exact setup in their own catalog
04-30-13, 10:51 PM
#33
My 7 is my girlfriend.
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 3,162
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
I swapped to full poly a few years ago. No regrets yet and I have had it out to a few autocrosses, one of which was on the Gratten Motorplex road course in Michigan. It was one of the faster autocrosses I've done as well as DGRR and the car felt great. The first time I drove it I was thrilled with the improved feel of the car and how it responded. It's up there with stainless braided brake lines as one of my favourite inexpensive upgrades.
11-19-17, 07:16 PM
#35
Rotary Enthusiast
Just use oe bushings in your watts or drilll holes in poly to soften them up. Theres a post on how to do this somewhere. I think carlrx7 was the poster. The stock rear stuff is fine for anything but a serious track car. I and many others successfully autox’d on it.
recap
stiff lower links
soft upperlinks and watts so they can deflect
recap
stiff lower links
soft upperlinks and watts so they can deflect
Last edited by mikey D; 11-19-17 at 07:20 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
