1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Watts Link: vague feeling. OEM vs Urethane?

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Old Apr 2, 2013 | 09:09 PM
  #26  
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From: Stafford, Ks.
Originally Posted by DriveFast7
Nice to see pics of my tri-link are still making the rounds. The panhard rod handles lateral location, it doesn't move much left to right. Heims in the 3rd link let it twist as needed. Haven't needed to add any more bracing but couldn't hurt. It's already stronger than Mazda's upper link brackets by a long shot.

Oh and with the heims it rattles like hell, would not recommend heims on the street. Use poly bushings instead.

Brad
Yep. Yours was the one that convinced me to put the tri-link in mine rather than the torque arm.

Glad to hear the poly is working for you Rotary-MG. You never know until you actually try it I guess.
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Old Apr 4, 2013 | 05:00 PM
  #27  
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I don't think anybody has ever said poly will not work in the Watts but you WILL have less rear grip than before.
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Old Apr 5, 2013 | 11:57 AM
  #28  
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I just installed the poly bushings in the rear of my car. I'll let you know how I like them when I get the car back on the road soon.

I'm thinking of thrying the nylon lock nut trick to see how that feels.
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Old Apr 8, 2013 | 02:02 PM
  #29  
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For what it's worth, a larger rear sway bar with poly end links felt great on the street but simply increased snap oversteer on the track. Had to remove it entirely to regain control.
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Old Apr 8, 2013 | 03:47 PM
  #30  
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Urethane worked great in mine. I bought the kit off respeed. My only gripe was the 3 hours I spent with a propane torch burning out the old rubber bushings.
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Old Apr 29, 2013 | 02:02 AM
  #31  
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Ive been recently pricing out upgrading my whole watts unit, and its not turning out to be too expensive. Im planning on replacing the center pivot bushing with a urethane one from a bushing set I bought ages ago and never installed, and make some new arms for the watts out of some heavy duty heims. So far Im only up to around $90 for everything. I can really think of any reason not too, especially as Mazda Motorsports sells pretty much this exact setup in their own catalog
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Old Apr 29, 2013 | 06:01 PM
  #32  
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by Sgt.Stinkfist
Ive been recently pricing out upgrading my whole watts unit, and its not turning out to be too expensive. Im planning on replacing the center pivot bushing with a urethane one from a bushing set I bought ages ago and never installed, and make some new arms for the watts out of some heavy duty heims. So far Im only up to around $90 for everything. I can really think of any reason not too, especially as Mazda Motorsports sells pretty much this exact setup in their own catalog
i have a similar setup for mine, if you need/want measurements lemme know.
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Old Apr 30, 2013 | 10:51 PM
  #33  
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I swapped to full poly a few years ago. No regrets yet and I have had it out to a few autocrosses, one of which was on the Gratten Motorplex road course in Michigan. It was one of the faster autocrosses I've done as well as DGRR and the car felt great. The first time I drove it I was thrilled with the improved feel of the car and how it responded. It's up there with stainless braided brake lines as one of my favourite inexpensive upgrades.
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Old Nov 9, 2017 | 05:51 PM
  #34  
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Any more of you guys using poly on the rear suspension parts?
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Old Nov 19, 2017 | 07:16 PM
  #35  
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Just use oe bushings in your watts or drilll holes in poly to soften them up. Theres a post on how to do this somewhere. I think carlrx7 was the poster. The stock rear stuff is fine for anything but a serious track car. I and many others successfully autox’d on it.

recap
stiff lower links
soft upperlinks and watts so they can deflect

Last edited by mikey D; Nov 19, 2017 at 07:20 PM.
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