I'm installing a new water pump and the FSM says 13-20 lbs. torque. That seems fairly high, considering I'm dealing with aluminum, cast iron and steel. Anyone do this without cracking anything? It's a 12a and I've also taken off the housing. I'll be using a thin coat of Honda bond on both sides of the gaskets for the housing and pump. I put the pump on once already without replacing the housing gasket and that was a fail.

The second question is, how much silicone oil does the clutch fan take if it's empty? I rebuilt one awhile ago and used an 18 ml tube of Toyota silicone and it's worked well for the guy I did it for. There's nothing in the FSM as, it was a throw-away part back then.

Thanks

 

I think most important for the water pump and housing is to make sure the thin washers are where they need to be. They provide a shim from the front iron surface so the housing seats parallel. The washers are the thickness of the gasket.

I don't think torque is too critical here but I would trust the FSM. As long as those washers are there you aren't going to hurt anything. They are M6 studs and bolts.

 

I just installed an alum. S4 housing and alum. 12A water pump onto a GSL-SE front cover. I got the same 13-20 ftlb spec from the Haynes manual. I started at 17 and then went around again at 18. Everything seems good, and I used the same "sealant coated gaskets" and shims technique you are using.

 

Thanks, I'll be putting it back together today. I'll let the Honda Bond cure for a few days before refilling and starting. Hopefully no leaks this time with both new seals.

 

Got it back on today, no issues. I did what Max Wedge did, now it just needs to cure. I really like that aluminum housing, that's a nice change.

I'm really hoping that replacing the water pump and rebuilding the clutch fan will stop the squealing. I'll find out next week after everything is back on and filled up.

 

You can re build the clutch fan? I noticed your previous comment about the silicone oil. Would be a good process to show and explain further for future documentation.

 

Yes, you have to carefully drill out the brass plug, drain old oil, then refill (very, very slow process). Then tap the hole for a screw and blue locktite.

 

Finally got everything back together, except for the clutch and fan. Nothing like the sound of a rotary engine all by itself!! I drove it around the block, no leaks on the new pump or housing. I put the refilled fan clutch back on this afternoon and will drive it tomorrow, keeping fingers crossed that the squealing is gone for good.

I did find out that the clutch holds just the 18 ml of silicone, assuming all the old stuff drained out. What a project to get it all in there!