New Member RX-7 Technical Post your first technical questions here, in an easy flame free environment, before jumping into the main technical sections.

water pump replacement

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 09-09-13, 04:06 PM
  #1  
Junior Member

Thread Starter
 
clifffyyy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: atlanta area
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
water pump replacement

I have a 1985 12a motor rx7. How do I go about taking the water pump off to reseal it since, it is leaking some.

Also, at the same time, I will be replacing the oil seals in the oil cooler (beehive). What all needs to be unbolted for this job and where are all the bolts and how many? (water pump job as well, same question)

I am new to the rx7 but, not to rotaries. I do have an rx8 as a daily driver but, I have not really worked on these cars much at all. I do work on talons, eclipses, and lasers as I own 2 at the moment.

I just want to make sure I am taking things off in the correct order and this rx7 has a stock cooling system on it. I have many of the stock hoses coming from mazdatrix and just not sure how to get the pump off as I have not dealt with manual fans and not sure what I need to know about the timing as it is a little more complicated than a piston engine til I get used to it, incase I will have to pull the motor down the road.

Thanks in advance,

Cliff
Old 09-09-13, 09:54 PM
  #2  
Moderator

iTrader: (3)
 
diabolical1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: FL
Posts: 10,817
Received 306 Likes on 267 Posts
welcome to the board.

you should go to foxed.ca and download a FSM for your car. i am sure that would probably be more useful to you.

the water pump is pretty straightforward. drain the system. take the fan off. take the belt off.

for the oil cooler, there are two 10 mm bolts on the underside of the filter pedestal.
Old 09-10-13, 12:05 AM
  #3  
Junior Member

Thread Starter
 
clifffyyy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: atlanta area
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by diabolical1
welcome to the board.

you should go to foxed.ca and download a FSM for your car. i am sure that would probably be more useful to you.

the water pump is pretty straightforward. drain the system. take the fan off. take the belt off.

for the oil cooler, there are two 10 mm bolts on the underside of the filter pedestal.
Thank you for the warm welcome.

The main thing I was wondering about was after taking the fan and fan clutch off, does the water pump unbolt and pull off with the shaft or, do you have to pull the pulley off with a pulley puller and then unbolt the waterpump and take it off? It looks like the whole pump and shaft come off as one. I was just making sure. I will download the material tomorrow as well.

Thank you again for the welcome!!

Cliff
Old 09-10-13, 10:01 AM
  #4  
Moderator

iTrader: (3)
 
diabolical1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: FL
Posts: 10,817
Received 306 Likes on 267 Posts
to avoid confusion, i will answer your question this way: the water pump itself can be done any of two ways.
1. it can be taken off by itself and obviously it will have the shaft attached.
2. you can also choose to remove the whole assembly (pump and housing) as a unit.

you can do the water pump either way. i usually choose to take it out as a unit, so i've never changed a "pump" with the housing left on the engine.

for the pulley, when you take the fan off, it will be VERY clear how it attaches to the pump.

there is no need to separate the fan from the clutch. just take it off as a unit.
Old 09-10-13, 02:05 PM
  #5  
'85 12a
iTrader: (10)
 
Cookboy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Richmond VA
Posts: 1,495
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
When removing beehive it's easier reassembly wise to remove the oil line at the front of the engine. Requires, I think, a 21 and a 23 open end wrench. I removed and simple green cleaned the fan while it was out to facilitate this. The mysterious 'they' say never to remove the oil line banjo bolts at the cooler. I advise using a small mirror to actually see the bolts under the beehive. Made it easier for me anyway. In the course of the job you may well disconnect your temp gauge sending wire, you'll see what I mean. I think I replaced my clutch slave at the time also.
I would also suggest changing the water hoses around the beehive at this time. Which means all the hoses, since you're draining anyway. And a thermostat too! Which means a flush while you're at it.
Seems like a lot, but it's gonna have to be done sooner or later, and it's a good feeling when it's all refreshed.
I also suggest thoroughly cleaning the area with Engine Brite the day before. It can be pretty nasty under a leaky beehive.
Old 09-10-13, 03:29 PM
  #6  
Junior Member

Thread Starter
 
clifffyyy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: atlanta area
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by diabolical1
to avoid confusion, i will answer your question this way: the water pump itself can be done any of two ways.
1. it can be taken off by itself and obviously it will have the shaft attached.
2. you can also choose to remove the whole assembly (pump and housing) as a unit.

you can do the water pump either way. i usually choose to take it out as a unit, so i've never changed a "pump" with the housing left on the engine.

for the pulley, when you take the fan off, it will be VERY clear how it attaches to the pump.

there is no need to separate the fan from the clutch. just take it off as a unit.
Thank you for the information. The pump is currently leaking but, until I take it off, I am not sure if it needs a pump or just a reseal and not sure if it is the pump to pump housing seal or housing to motor seal but, I do have both coming just in case. If it is not obvious that it is leaking at either seal, I will get another pump and call it a day so, that is why I was asking since it will all come apart, more than likely.
Old 09-10-13, 03:41 PM
  #7  
Junior Member

Thread Starter
 
clifffyyy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: atlanta area
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Cookboy
When removing beehive it's easier reassembly wise to remove the oil line at the front of the engine. Requires, I think, a 21 and a 23 open end wrench. I removed and simple green cleaned the fan while it was out to facilitate this. The mysterious 'they' say never to remove the oil line banjo bolts at the cooler. I advise using a small mirror to actually see the bolts under the beehive. Made it easier for me anyway. In the course of the job you may well disconnect your temp gauge sending wire, you'll see what I mean. I think I replaced my clutch slave at the time also.
I would also suggest changing the water hoses around the beehive at this time. Which means all the hoses, since you're draining anyway. And a thermostat too! Which means a flush while you're at it.
Seems like a lot, but it's gonna have to be done sooner or later, and it's a good feeling when it's all refreshed.
I also suggest thoroughly cleaning the area with Engine Brite the day before. It can be pretty nasty under a leaky beehive.

Thanks for the insight. I do want to clean everything up in that area. I just bought the car a few weeks ago and it is actually in decent shape as far as the body and all. I do have all the hoses on the way to do the pump and beehive job. Mazdatrix has it all so far. I am new to the older rx7s but, I have worked on cars before. At some point, I may pull the motor, if needed, to replace the seals and gaskets.

The previous owner said that he thought a seal was cracked but, it starts right up, even when warm. I am thinking the carb is needing a fix of some sort but, I have never dealt with carbs. The problem it is having is, at low rpms, if you hit the gas, or just pulling from a stop, it will stumble and die sometimes. The rpms have to be kept high >2000 to start or change gears but, seems like it is either flooding or lean but, not sure yet.

I am sure the clutch disc is not in that great of shape but, if I pull the motor, will fix all that too. Another problem for another day. For now, just want to fix the leaks so I can drive it some.

If anyone has any advice about the 12a, I am all ears too.

Thank you all for the warm welcome too.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
streetlegal?
New Member RX-7 Technical
13
03-17-22 02:46 PM
FD7KiD
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
15
02-26-21 10:12 PM
sherff
Adaptronic Engine Mgmt - AUS
9
02-24-19 12:09 PM
FD7KiD
Single Turbo RX-7's
1
08-17-15 11:50 PM



Quick Reply: water pump replacement



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:28 AM.