no i am not. BUT i have read about a few setups that also did not. timing is retarded though.

 

actually, ****! i never did retard the timing. OMFG. think that would really make a difference though in neutral where no boost is seen? it could make sense i guess since it's still artificial pressure??? haha GLAD this was brought up before possibly getting it running right and me blowing the **** up. god i feel like an idiot now. just too much to think about! i'm retarding it now a bit. we'll see what happens maybe.

 

I dont think its wise to run a dizzy that advances timing. Thats gonna cause nothing but problems.

 

i will lock it then after i figure out these problems first. messing with timing did nothing so i'm still lost guys.

 

ok, GUESS WHAT! BIG UPDATE!!!! i remember someone telling me a while back to try the car with the carb bonnet off. i didnt think it would work. well i got fed up and tried it out of spite. the car cranked perfect as it has,, BUTTTTT idled beautifully where i wanted it, reved SUUUUUPER FAST all teh way to 8,000rpms. the carb was responding wonderfully!!!!!! everything was as a perfect NATURALLY ASPIRATED setup could ever hope to be! sooo , now i need to know what's killing everything. could it be plumbing somehow? i dunno. maybe it's the carb maybe it's not. but this is what it's all about now.

 

Cool, thats a good way to eliminate some things. Carb is not the major issue then. Sumthing else is causing you problems. Can you read the fuel pressure while driving?

 

Well I have been quietly reading, not that I have anything solid to go by. First your idle might be jacked do to the turbo infront of the carb. It's acting like a choke. You will probably have to adjust your idle to compensate. Your saying its idling great N/A so that could be that problem. If you still have the carb hat off check to see if the turbo is blowing(its fun trust me, feeling the air blow by your fingers) Now if you have everything connected correctly you do get a little boost 2~3 psi with out a load on the car. That should be enough that the fuel regulator should raise the pressure. Check to make sure it's raising the fuel pressure. If you cant get a no load reading. Rig it with enough fuel line so you can see the pressure gauge from the drivers seat and verify that the pressure is going up. if its not there is a problem.
If all that is working correctly jet up the secondaries for a test. Hopefully you have a nice set of jets with the carb.

ALSO check that boost controller!!! you want it so that its in the completely open stage right now. If you have it closed your boost controller is not giving a signal to the wastegate to open and your boosting at over 14 psi (could cause problems). At this point I would simplify and just remove it for now. I think the stock setting on the turbo is 6~7 psi. that should be good for now. Sorry couldnt tell if you had a boost gauge and you have made no reference to that yet.

I also did a tutorial on how to lock it. if you need it I can find it again

hope that helps
Sean

 

okie well, tomorrow after work i will check these things. one thing i do know for sure though, is that i am not making any boost in neutral. probably because i can't even go past 4 - 5000 rpms. i have done everything possible with this fuel issue. i've made it rise when i rev, i've made it stay steady when i rev. no matter what though i can not get past 3,000 - 3500 MAYBE while under load. i never never NEVER see boost. now; COULD IT BE.... possible that when the carb is sealed with the hat and airflow is being pushed in there, that it's reverting back? like it's not all going where it should? fug i am shooting for anything right now. i just do not see how this could be a fuel problem. i have tried everything i can think of fuel related. but again, i am open to anything and will try all! it May be possible that the secondaries will need to be jetted up. since they will never be opened while not under boost i dont think. i mean, if my foot is that far in the gas, i'm sure to be spoolin like a biaaaatch! WOOOOOO! i will prevail damnit!

 

ok, nate (adrenaliferx7) and i thought about some stuff tonight. i MAY have a minor vac leak on the bottom side of the intake manifold. this would explain why over 4000rpms it gives out, because like some have said it might make a couple lbs of boost. with this leak it would just escape out and fug the whole mix up.

also, we agreed on just running a line straight from the coldside to the wastegate solenoid for now as seanrot stated i should try.

we really think these might tremedously help, he has had this problem with the whole gasket thing and you guys remember my pics of that manifold and how it wasnt the flattest surface. so wish me luck. i get off of work at 7pm, and i start work on the rex at 7:01pm. even tho it takes me 30 min to get home.

 

What are you using as your boost only source?

Marques

 

i'm running off the wastegate line coming out of the cold side of the turbo.

 

So you have the line t'd to the wastegate also? I would reference off the carb hat, just drill a hole and weld a vacuum fitting to the hat.

Do you have a hand pump to check that the regulator is working properly? Hook a hand pump the the regulator line and make sure it increases 1:1.

Marques

 

i only have a hand vaccum pump thing. for bleeding brakes. BUT!!!! i just had a breakthru!!!!! i turned the damn mix screw out as far as it would almost go and my idle is now perfect! and at 800rpms!!!! NO VAC LEAK! WOOOOO! also, the car drives beautifully until i start to make boost!!!!! i'm ssooooo close i can literally smell the exhaust fumes now it's so damn rich! AHHAHAAHAH I LOVE IT! oh yea, now i am not referencing off the wastegate line. i was and i am about to go back to that. maybe this can work? WOOTUMUS it was nice being able to cruise in 5th again, its' crazy though, if i'm in 3rd at damn 2,000 rpms and i just stomp it, it immediately tries to make boost and i lean out! but damn that's FAST! HAHAHAHAHAHAHAH YES!

 

Maybe I need to get you a bigger idle jet? I didnt think the turbo would make any difference at idle. Also maybe some bigger main jets are needed. I wish you had an A/F meter or some dyno time to tell us wuts going on.

 

Carl, what jets do you have in there right now? I'd have to check with Robert, but I'm almost positive that my nikki had stock jets in it.

 

UMM UJMMMMMMMMMMM, i made boost???? AAHHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHA it was WEEEEIIIRRDD. i only hit a couple lbs and only for a split second. ok here's what happened. i redid the whole boost reference thing back on to the wastegate line. it goes... vaccum nipple off cold side of turbo; line to T-fitting. splits off to regulator and then to the boost controller which is just opened up all the way so shouldnt be harming; then to wastegate solenoid. rock on, so i get out the driveway and just get on it a little bit in 1st. it gets to about 3500 (i'm not flooring it) and starts to sputter so i quickly shift it in to second and then gas it kinda hard. it dies out and sputters like i'm just leaning out like a bitch. so i put it in 4th and cruise and it cruises so well and then goes to a nice idle. i U-turn and just for some reason felt the need to get on it again in first... i wasn't really watching my boost gauge and i didnt expect anything to happen but HOLY **** i swear the front of the car just lifted and it LAUNCHED. i got scared and let off, the turbo made a LOUD *** flutter (bov not on yet) so i know i made boost and it was amazing! i couldnt recreate it though!! AHHHHHHHHH! what could be causing this???? WOOOOOOO!

 

matt; could you only make boost while in the secondaries? just curious. oh and carl, i will get on the dyno when this clears up. i dont see a big problem anymore other than getting this regulator to act right or something. i think the jets will be fine. well, yea maybe a bigger idle jet hahahaha

 

Don't go futzing with the carb.
You have a fuel delivery problem. Your pressure referencing MUST be corrected. No wild-*** crazy guesses are going to do it. You chnace seriously ******* something up basting the pedal like that until you get this **** sorted out.

Coldy, this is a heavily modded carb that requires adequate jetting.

Zac, what are your plugs looking like?

Please start from the beginning, and trace where the fuel is going from start to finish, and include every junction in the plumbing.

 

roger that sterling. it's definitely somehow my regulator not responding to the boost reference. tonight after work or tomorrow morning i will be rechecking the whole fuel system setup to see if something is just getting kinked again or clogged maybe in my feed line possibly too. i'll pull my plugs again as well.

 

Can you disconnect and pressureize the reference line and see if the fuel press rises? Maybe the reg is bad? Gotta do some troubleshooting. Shooting from the hip is gonna eat up time and probably get you nowhere.

 

^that is what I was saying about the hand pump...just to make sure the reg is working properly.

You really need a dedicated vac line as close to the carb as possible for the regulator. You want the reg to see the exact same pressure as what is in the carb. Some of my turbo mustang buds actually reference off the float bowls (on holleys), probably can't do that on a nikki, but that assures that the fuel pressure is always an exact amount higher than the boost pressure.

How are all of your fuel lines run? You run feed line to regulator, regulator to carb, return line on regulator to stock return right? Could you snap a few pics for us?

If you can't figure this nikki out I can always build you a boost prepped holley

Marques

 

Really? Mine was too, turned out that after all Roberts testing and tuning, "adequate jetting" was the same size as stock jets. Bigger jets caused a huge bog/stumble when first getting on boost.

 

Well we upped the total airflow thru the carb by like %50. You need more fuel, trust me.

 

ok lemme snap a shot. should i not be running my pressure gauge in line? maybe it's causing a restriction? hahaha i would like to run the boost reference line off the carb hat, but i dont want to drill in to coldy13's masterpiece. i wouldnt want to mess that carb hat up and it's aluminum so getting someone around here to weld on that is almost impossible. arrrg.

 

You wouldn't need to weld to it, the sides and top of the hat are fairly thick. If you really want to refrence it to there, then just drill and tap it and put in a fitting with some sealant/teflon on the threads. I still think it should be refrenced to the manifold, but just connect it wherever it runs better for you.