it's also not idling below 1200. seems i have a vac leak. but i cant find it. even though, wouldn't i still be able to rev past 4,000 in neutral atleast? if i open the secondaries at all it just dies like it's got absolutely no fuel. i watched the fuel gauge as i did this and fuel is steady 3.5 psi. *sigh* this is aggrivating. oh well. i'm open for more suggestions; right now i'm still trying to track down the vac leak.

 

Any chance of hooking an A/F meter to it? You can fiddle with the pressure, maybe in this application it needs more. Can you do me a favor and start it as 2.5? Then go up from there.

 

I'm starting to think it could be a blocked jet or something like that.

 

From wut? Brand new jets is an overhauled carb. And why onlt the secs? Not like a holley where they have their own bowls.

 

CARL!!!!!!! get on aim if you can or something!!! hahahha, it's worse now, well kinda... ok. it will not idle lower than like 1300 or so without stalling every now and then. no vac leaks anywhere. in neutral i can rev once to like 5000rpms and then its sputters fast and bad. then it will gladly idle at like 1300 again. ok here's what i saw though. watching the floats, BUBBLES appear wheni rev it!!!! WTF IS THAT??? AHHHHHHHHHH!

 

k, i lowered the fuel pressure to 2.5 psi. ran the same.

 

Alright, I'll try to explain this a bit better. This is what happened to my car with my last setup(blowthrough nikki) when I had the regulator only refrenced to boost. At first I set the pressure to where it idled best. When I tried to drive it it would lean out and detonate after 5k in 3rd. So I kept increasing the fuel pressure until I could rev it all the way to 8k in 5th with no sign of detonation. But now the car would not idle below 2k, anything lower and the carb would flood badly and the car would die. Also, while shifting the regulator would see the small boost spikes before the BOV could vent off the extra pressure, so it would pour in a bit of extra gas while shifting which made it hesitate when I put it into the next gear. Now, I kept the pressure regulator at the same setting, all I changed was I refrenced it to the intake manifold now. Now the car would idle fine at any RPM since while seeing vacuum it would decrease the pressure a bit. It also ran much better at part/light throttle. Also, it no longer hesitated at all between shifts and I could still take it to 8k in 5th with no detonation at all.

I'm just going by my experience, and my car has always ran MUCH better when the regulator is refrenced to the intake manifold. But since my carb was prepped by Robert, and yours by Carl, maybe they mod it differently and yours might run better refrenced to boost only. The only way to really tell is to try it, but I bet it'll run better if it's refrenced to the manifold. Also, when you refrence it to the manifold, connect the regulator to BOTH primary runners. It will get a much smoother signal.

 

ok, well hmmm..... what psi of fuel were you running at then? i will try it. cause i cant even get past 4500 in neutral! hahahaha

 

Hmmm, your car seems to be running almost EXACTLY like my weber was at first. Mine was doing that because I forgot to drill a hole in the carb hat that would let the boost pressure go into the floats too. So the floats were sealed off and the fuel would only flow out a little bit, then it built up a massive vacuum in the float bowls. It would still run then, but it would run EXACTLY like you're describing.

 

hmmmm, so you drilled a hole for what??? hahahaha would this work for a nikki? you think maybe the pressure is bypassing something? wooooo! sorry for that line of questions.

 

I have no idea what pressure I was running, I still have no idea what pressure I'm running. Don't have a gauge, don't need one. Here's what you should do, it takes a while, but it's really the only way to set it right. Unscrew the adjuster all the way, so it's at the lowest pressure it can be. Drive it, the second it starts to cut out, stop. Turn the adjuster 1 turn in, and drive it again. When it cuts out, turn it another turn in. Just keep doing that until it'll run good. If that doesn't work and your car still runs like ****, then it's either a problem inside the carb, or an ignition problem.

 

true, aight, i'm gonna give this a whirl!!!!! wish me luck ahhhhhhhhhhhh we'll see how it goes. be back in like 10 minutes with the update.

 

Just describing why my car ran like yours. On a nikki the floats are different than a weber, so if your problem is the same type of thing as mine was, then it's a problem with how Carl modded the carb.

 

ok, that didnt work at allll. lol once it seems to the point it's going to start building boost or if i just mash it i lose everything. no matter what fuel pressure.

 

Well I know the float bowls are referenced to hat pressure. The float bowl vent is in the triangular thing you see looking down into the carb. So unless your hat blocks it, or something else does, the float bowls are seeing the correct pressure. The bubbles have me concerned though. Could be a restriction causing that. Not sure.

 

hmmm, yea, i wasnt sure what those were coming from? hahahah FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUG!

 

Wait a minute, fuel pressure isint increasing? Thats a problem, and will run you out of fuel, starving the engine.

 

in neutral?

edit: the floats are staying level.

 

i dont see how it could be a carb problem. carl tests them before he sends them. arg :/

 

Doesnt boost pressure increase even revving it when the car is still? Yea but I cant test it for this.

 

Boost pressure won't increase unless the engine is under load. You *might* be able to build 1-2 psi near the redline depending on the setup, but normally no load=no boost.

 

no, you see absolutely no boost when in neutral. no load for it. i switched back to the way coldy13 said to do. saaaaame thing. i was even running both vaccum sources. this is utterly insane. i'm starting to think it's not a fuel issue now. or i dunno. i cant make any calls. this is crazy

 

oh and here's another weird thing..... when hooked it back up to a vaccum source the fuel gauge became VERY jumpy. when i put my finger over the hose i felt lots of pulses. wasnt smooth. but the pressure would still go to about 7psi when under wot and still die at like 4,000rpms.

 

went back to boost reference only. i dont think it even matters at this ******* point. ahhhg; anyways. i have also noticed that i can not even hold the revs at any rpm. say like 2,000 or 2500 rpms just holding it there, it stutters so bad. but i will watch the floats and nothing changes!!!!!! WTF!!!!!

 

Stupid question time. You are running a locked timing dizzy right?