seanrot

iTrader: (2)

Is there a bend at the ten inch point? If the clot is just ten inches down cut the metal line after the clog and just use rubber hose up to that. I believe ten inches is still in the engine bay right?

edit: awright I made page 6 on the everlasting thread

another poke at sterlings location would be good now, but Ill hold back

FB II

ROB: nah no yards here have early 7's. i am going to try this normal fuel hose for now just to make sure this gets it going. and then i'll see about the stock line later. i just want it to run right.

FB II

ok, question: do i have to drop the damn tank to connect this new return hose to the line built in to the tank? it doesnt seem i need to, but i cant remember if there is a clamp on it or not. ahhhhhhgggggg, hahahah i've had a couple beers so i'm kinda lazy right now. but i'll do what i gotta do.

FB II

ok, everything is setup now and pressure is holding where i want it so far. hahaha, gotten tighten up some stuff and i'll crank it up and take it on the road to see what happens! AHHHHHHH WISH ME LUCK ON NO MORE PROBLEMS! WOOOOOT!

perfect_circle

careful, if youve had a few beers, i know youve put alot into this, and that would be a bad way to **** it all away

FB II

lol, nah, not THAT many beers. anywho, it still does not rev past 3,000rpms. W T F. if i set the fuel pressure without the car running to 3.5 psi it won't be enough when it is running. it's weird. so i have to bump it up to around 7psi to get it to be at or below 3psi when its running??? weird i know. the floats are level and everything. i still can not rev it past 3,000 in neutral and it barely drives. it still sounds like it's starving for fuel or maybe is getting way way too much. the only thing that might make sense is that i read on the regulator instructions that it decreases fuel pressure for every couple of Hg. sooo, MAYBE as i'm giving throttle the fuel pressure is getting too high for not being under boost? hmmmm, anyone got any ideas? this thing should be running fine now. gotta tune this crap out. no more under the car crap i hope. lol

seanrot

iTrader: (2)

lets have some pictures so we can see what you got going on. might help

FB II

ok, here's one from tonight. i dunno what to take a pic of that will help. it's all hooked up right. oh wellz. arrrrg

seanrot

iTrader: (2)

try taking the carb hat off and see if it will rev past 3000. but be careful. without a boost signal to the wastegate the turbo will spin to oblivion. If thats the case might be carb tuning issues (hope I didnt say that too loud)

BTW picture probably wont help diagnose the problem, but I finally got you one to put one up Looks good.

FB II

hahaha, yea i will get another pic later when i reinstall the intercooler and bov. as for taking the carb hat off, can i really do that? i know it will go past 3000rpms because if i disconnect the fuel pump and just run the car on what's left in the carb i can take it up to 7grand. F&*K i think i just figured out my fuggin problem.... must be when the vaccum signal decreases the regulator is gong back to normal fuel pressure and slamming my floats down... ARGG!!!!! that's gotta be it. but how can i fix this???? is there a way to get a boost reference signal only ??? instead of vaccum and boost??? WOOHOOO this might fix me problem!!!! AHHHHHHHAHAHHAHAHAAH

mcnannay

i think iotus was dealing with the same exact problem on his turbo fb, he was hitting me up for my tap and die set so he could put a new nipple in for his fuel pressure vaccum, im not sure exactly what was going on but i would ask him

i know it had something to do with needing only the boost vaccum, thats probably the same issue...

REVHED

Simple... just run the boost reference signal from the carb hat instead of the intake manifold.

seanrot

iTrader: (2)

I think it would be easier to run off the wastegate signal line. Just splice that to the FPR. BTW go before the boost controller. Good luck

FB II

sweet, i'll try that first seanrot! i work all day today though won't get to mess with it till late tonight or tomorrow since i have the whole day off WOOT. will let you guys know what happens!

seanrot

iTrader: (2)

and we will be pestering you for an update

mwatson184

The regulator is only supposed to see boost. Reference it off the carb hat, that is what I have always done.

mwatson184

You aren't ever on aol anymore...what gives zac?

Marques

coldy13

No, the regulator should see boost and vacuum. If it only sees boost then you'll be flooding the carb at idle, or lean at high rpm's.

FB II

marques; i am usually on later at night now. with the new job and all. i am going to atleast try referencing on boost only, because i know now that when it sees vaccum it is taking away all my pressure. it says thats what it should do in the manual but i didnt think about it for a bit. i won't know for sure till tomorrow, i can't fire it up tonight. shakes the house. hahahaha. WOOT! look for the (hopefully FINAL) update tomorrow morning! WOOOT

mwatson184

Would you like to explain that to me a little better?

Here is how I see it. If you reference it from a boost only source, pressure will stay constant at whatever level you set it at. You won't flood at low rpm because there is no vacuum in the fuel bowls of the carburetor. Once you hit boost, the bowls become pressurized so you need to increase the fuel pressure an equal amount for compensation. The carb should act completely the same as a non-blowthrough while not under boost, i.e. no change in fuel pressure, no need for vacuum.

Unless I am not seeing something right. I have had boost only references for 3 years on 3 separate blowthrough setups (2 rx7s and a mustang). Enlighten me if I am doing something wrong. I know you are quite successful with your setup as well.

Marques

REVHED

That's how I see it as well. Another problem with referencing manifold boost pressure/vacuum that I can think of is letting off the throttle under boost. The FPR will suddenly see vacuum and drop the fuel pressure while there is still pressure in the inlet tract. Not sure if it's a problem if you use a BOV though.

FB II

wow, i JUST got home from a huge party at BAR CHARLOTTE for my b-day! today was actually the day. I'm 22 years old GOD IM GETTING OLD! j/k anywho, i'vehad quite a few beers thanks to my friends and tomorrow i will hopefully give myself the greatest present of all....... getting the car to see boost correctly and willingly!!!!! i am going to try the wastegate line and we'll go from there. WOOOT! I LOVE YOU GUYS! HAHAHHHAHAHAHAHA

Rx7carl

Congrats man!

I agree. The prime reason for having the reg is to keep a constant fuel pressure in the carb. So its natural to reference the reg to whatever the floatbowls see, not whats in the manifold. The carb doesnt care what manifold pressure is when the throttle is shut, just like what Revhed was talking about. All your doing by turbocharging is creating an artificial atmosephere. So on an NA car, the reg sits in the engine bay and is reference to ambient air, just as the float bowls see ambient air pressure. Same thing with forced induction. Your just trying to keep a constant differential pressure between the float bowl air and the liquid fuel in the line.

FB II

woot! thanks carl; i'm running to autozone real quick now to get a long enough vaccum line. and then i'm firing it up and i'll tell you guys the news. HOPE WITH ALL MIGHT THAT THIS DOES IT! be back in a bit!

FB II

AHHHHH, it is running soooo much better now, BUT!!!!! it's still starving above 3500 in 1st, 2500 in second and any other gear it doesnt even want to run in. so i know it's not boost related. CARL, what should my base fuel pressure be? i have had it on 3 - 3.25. shouldi try 4?