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Hey guys! I just got my rx-7 started
I have two issues.
1) I tried changing the fuel pump but I can’t even get to the bolt because it’s rusted and stripped and doesn’t come out. How do I remove it?
This bolt in the photo and the two bolts on actual fuel pump.
2) next is my Rx-7 will start but eventually will die.
Even if I press throttle it’ll drop idle every time I press it?
Why is that?
(CHOKE WAS USED)
I just changed the fuel filter.
If that bolt is just spinning, it means the captive nut has come unwelded. Take a pry bar or screwdriver and place it between the frame and bracket and apply pressure while trying to take the bolt out.
For the running issue, once you change the fuel pump AND filter, see if the issue continues.
If that bolt is just spinning, it means the captive nut has come unwelded. Take a pry bar or screwdriver and place it between the frame and bracket and apply pressure while trying to take the bolt out.
For the running issue, once you change the fuel pump AND filter, see if the issue continues.
The bolt is just swimming. I tried putting a pry bar and pushing it down while i use a 10m drill to unbolt it but it would just spin.
I changed the fuel filter already and it started finally but i haven't changed the fuel pump because i can't unbolt the other 2 bolts of it to remove.
I had the same problem with the same bolt on my car. Unless you have something else supporting the car, that jack stand is in a hazardous spot. You're going to get crushed !
The issue with it dying when depressing the throttle is probably an issue with the AP (accelerator pump).
Shut off the car but keep the fuel pump running if possible (putting the key in the "run position" for S1 and S2 cars will keep it going). Remove the air filter cover so you can see down the carburetor. Have a friend depress the throttle or manipulate it yourself from the carb and see if two jets of fuel are squirted out from the AP nozzle into both primary barrels. If it's a good strong squirt on both sides (the system is basically a squirt gun) then you're fine. If not then there's a couple other things to check before pulling things apart.
I had the same problem with the same bolt on my car. Unless you have something else supporting the car, that jack stand is in a hazardous spot. You're going to get crushed !
Where do you recommend me put the jack stand then? Is there another jack point?
The issue with it dying when depressing the throttle is probably an issue with the AP (accelerator pump).
Shut off the car but keep the fuel pump running if possible (putting the key in the "run position" for S1 and S2 cars will keep it going). Remove the air filter cover so you can see down the carburetor. Have a friend depress the throttle or manipulate it yourself from the carb and see if two jets of fuel are squirted out from the AP nozzle into both primary barrels. If it's a good strong squirt on both sides (the system is basically a squirt gun) then you're fine. If not then there's a couple other things to check before pulling things apart.
How do i differ from primary barrels?
Do you have a pic of the AP nozzle?
So let's say two scenarios.
1) the squirt is good, what would i check for?
2) what if it's bad what do i do?
Someone recommended me to remove the carb and clean it and put new gaskets and rebuild. what do you think?
Can i use carb cleaner on the Accelerator pump?
As for the jack points, I usually jack from the front cross member/subframe (by the oil pan) for the front and the pumpkin for the rear. I always put the stands on frame rails. The pinch weld really isn't a good place for anything unless you're using one of those little road-side scissor jacks that has a slot in it, otherwise you'll just fold it over and make it look nasty (the PO of my car did this a lot by the looks of my pinch welds).
The primary barrels are smaller, they have the choke flap above them, and are closer to the drivers side of the car. In the below photo the AP nozzle is circled in red. The two blue lines are where fuel should be squirting out, however it will be squirting down at an angle into the barrels (which is a bit difficult to draw hence the "caption"). The carburetor in the photo also has the air horn removed (the top third of the carb) and is modified so it may look slightly different than yours, although the AP is still the same.
I didn't bother writing the follow up as (like many folks would agree) it's nice to avoid typing what isn't needed. Plus it helps keep people from self diagnosing incorrectly (sometimes) or going down rabbit holes, although mainly it's because of the laziness factor and that this has been covered plenty on the forum. Not to mention that the fsm has wonderful, labeled diagrams of all of this. Anywho...
1) If it's giving a nice shot with the engine off, first couple things I'd do is:
- Check the AP shot while running.
- While running look at both sight glasses (a mirror is helpful for the rear one). Fuel should be midway up the glasses.
- Test the fuel flow. The FSM has specs on this (I don't recall them off the top of my head).
If both of those are good then a bit more specific description of what the car is doing would be helpful. Does it die eventually no matter what, or does it only die if you touch the gas? Etc.
2) If the shot is poor, non-existent, or glitchy then you'll probably be looking at rebuilding it. Thankfully these carbs are pretty simple in that regard, so it's mostly a matter of getting a kit and setting aside some time to go through things.
Depending on how long the car has sat a carb rebuild might be a good idea anyway. And yeah, you can use carb cleaner on the AP, but without some disassembly it won't do anything helpful. My apologies if this came across rather bluntly, sometimes it's a bit difficult to guess how much experience someone has with a topic. Too advanced and first timers get lost, too simple and you're insulting a vet with outside experience .
01-05-21, 03:11 PM
and that this has been covered plenty on the forum. Not to mention that the fsm has wonderful, labeled diagrams of all of this. Anywho...
