Turbo II wiring swap info
#1
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Turbo II wiring swap info
First off, the engine is a s4 and it is going into an 82 GSL. I know what all parts it will take, but my question is wiring. I have the wiring diagrams for both my GSL and the turbo engine. My question for right know is this... I have removed the 12A engine and the harness that goes with it. So I am left with a harness for the lights and the ignitors and the coil. Should I remove the wiring for the coils and ignitors and leave the rest of it? Any help on this topic is appreciated.
For a little more info, all the emissions equipment will be removed from the turbo engine and I will be running the stock ECU, at least for a while. I have read the Chronicles of a Turbo II Swap, but I wasn't sure how much it would apply to an 82 GSL. I want this to look clean and work well for a while, and I just want some heads up on some of the finer points.
For a little more info, all the emissions equipment will be removed from the turbo engine and I will be running the stock ECU, at least for a while. I have read the Chronicles of a Turbo II Swap, but I wasn't sure how much it would apply to an 82 GSL. I want this to look clean and work well for a while, and I just want some heads up on some of the finer points.
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I too would like some more info on this topic. I have read all the threads in the FAQ about TII swaps. Even searched for some of the other stuff that I still had questions about. But this information would be great. Also the interior wiring from the warning lights in the cluster to the TII ECU.
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But in RRTEC's write-up he says you can just splice the lines. But what if I premix? Would it matter then? The only reason I ask is because I have had zero luck getting an SE front cover, but I have a 12A front cover in my garage.
#7
FB+FC=F-ME
In a nutshell......
There is no need to use any wiring on the FB to operate the FC engine.
If you purchase and install an FC underhood fusebox and main ECU relay,there wont be a single connection between the 1G chassis and the 2G engine/ECU.
Obviously,the big right side FC harness is plug and play between the ECU and engine.If your gonna delete all the smog gear and solenoids,youll need to cut,trim,re-lay or otherwise slim down that big harness.Its very important that none of the cut/unused wires, short or touch each other,as you can fry the ECU that way.However you do it is up to you,I wont recommend any particular method since I only deal in fully smog legal type swaps where the harness is unmolested.
The left side harness is best made from scratch using the #1 yellow ECU gangplug and the plugs that go directly into the coils,CAS,main relay and fuel pump relay/resistor.You just use the factory service manual to determine which wires you can depin from the gangplug,and which wires are needed for engine operation.......I just did one last night for a S4 N/A,and it works out to this.......
Of the 24 wires on the left side gang plug......
Eight wires are absolutely needed.....
4 to CAS.....red...blue...white...green....bundled and sheilded.
3 to trailing coil.....blue/yellow...blue/red...brown/yellow
1 to leading coil.....green/yellow
Five are needed for correct smog operation and legality,but are not needed for the engine to run.....
1 to heat hazard switch(to control split air shutoff)....black/yellow
1 to cold operation water temp switch....brown
1 to air bypass solenoid....red/yellow
1 to port air solenoid....brown/red
1 to 5th gear switch(for split air operation)....black/blue
Four are needed if you want to be able to read trouble codes from the......uh,prehistoric...... S4 control system.....
1 to initial set connector.....orange
3 to trouble code plug(for LED indicators)....yellow...yellow/black....yellow/red
The 7 remaining wires can be de-pinned and forgotten about since they dont operate anything that youll ever need to worry about on the 1G.
There is no need to use any wiring on the FB to operate the FC engine.
If you purchase and install an FC underhood fusebox and main ECU relay,there wont be a single connection between the 1G chassis and the 2G engine/ECU.
Obviously,the big right side FC harness is plug and play between the ECU and engine.If your gonna delete all the smog gear and solenoids,youll need to cut,trim,re-lay or otherwise slim down that big harness.Its very important that none of the cut/unused wires, short or touch each other,as you can fry the ECU that way.However you do it is up to you,I wont recommend any particular method since I only deal in fully smog legal type swaps where the harness is unmolested.
The left side harness is best made from scratch using the #1 yellow ECU gangplug and the plugs that go directly into the coils,CAS,main relay and fuel pump relay/resistor.You just use the factory service manual to determine which wires you can depin from the gangplug,and which wires are needed for engine operation.......I just did one last night for a S4 N/A,and it works out to this.......
Of the 24 wires on the left side gang plug......
Eight wires are absolutely needed.....
4 to CAS.....red...blue...white...green....bundled and sheilded.
3 to trailing coil.....blue/yellow...blue/red...brown/yellow
1 to leading coil.....green/yellow
Five are needed for correct smog operation and legality,but are not needed for the engine to run.....
1 to heat hazard switch(to control split air shutoff)....black/yellow
1 to cold operation water temp switch....brown
1 to air bypass solenoid....red/yellow
1 to port air solenoid....brown/red
1 to 5th gear switch(for split air operation)....black/blue
Four are needed if you want to be able to read trouble codes from the......uh,prehistoric...... S4 control system.....
1 to initial set connector.....orange
3 to trouble code plug(for LED indicators)....yellow...yellow/black....yellow/red
The 7 remaining wires can be de-pinned and forgotten about since they dont operate anything that youll ever need to worry about on the 1G.
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#8
Old Fart Young at Heart
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If you look in the lubrication section and compare the mop output between the 12A, the SEs and the S4 TIIs, you will find a marked difference. RB sells new SE front covers, I don't know if the S4 mop will fit or if you would need the SE one. You could use the 12A front cover and add additional premix to make up for the difference.
Keep in mind that the amount of premix is based on throttle position and too much premix can reduce the octane rating if you plan on running high boost levels and premium fuel.
Keep in mind that the amount of premix is based on throttle position and too much premix can reduce the octane rating if you plan on running high boost levels and premium fuel.
#9
FB+FC=F-ME
All the 1G gauges and idiot lights have their own senders and wiring.Its not connected to the engine ECU at all,so no worries there.
Also,whether its an N/A or TII the wiring for the 2nd gen engine is pretty much the same.That is true for both S4 and S5.....although both types of S5 engine have a few special needs that must be adressed in regards to wiring.
Any S4 OMP bolts right up to the SE front cover.While hard to find,the SE front cover is by far the simplest way to make a S4 engine work right the first time.
Also,whether its an N/A or TII the wiring for the 2nd gen engine is pretty much the same.That is true for both S4 and S5.....although both types of S5 engine have a few special needs that must be adressed in regards to wiring.
Any S4 OMP bolts right up to the SE front cover.While hard to find,the SE front cover is by far the simplest way to make a S4 engine work right the first time.
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This is exactly why I love this forum. This has just answered ALL the questions I had. Thanks to both trochoid and steve84GS TII, you are both veritable plethoras of information for everything FB related.
#14
Never Follow
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[QUOTE=trochoid]If you look in the lubrication section and compare the mop output between the 12A, the SEs and the S4 TIIs, you will find a marked difference. RB sells new SE front covers, I don't know if the S4 mop will fit or if you would need the SE one. QUOTE]
Do they? I can't seem to find it on their site...
And I agree with the other guys, you and steve are two of the more helpful guys on here.
Hey steve my 90 T2 swap is getting closer, so expect some pm's from me
Do they? I can't seem to find it on their site...
And I agree with the other guys, you and steve are two of the more helpful guys on here.
Hey steve my 90 T2 swap is getting closer, so expect some pm's from me
#16
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[QUOTE=82transam]
I believe it was RB, you may need to download thier catalogue to find it. If not, maybe it was Mazdatrix, I;ve been wrong before.
Originally Posted by trochoid
If you look in the lubrication section and compare the mop output between the 12A, the SEs and the S4 TIIs, you will find a marked difference. RB sells new SE front covers, I don't know if the S4 mop will fit or if you would need the SE one. QUOTE]
Do they? I can't seem to find it on their site...
And I agree with the other guys, you and steve are two of the more helpful guys on here.
Hey steve my 90 T2 swap is getting closer, so expect some pm's from me
Do they? I can't seem to find it on their site...
And I agree with the other guys, you and steve are two of the more helpful guys on here.
Hey steve my 90 T2 swap is getting closer, so expect some pm's from me
#17
Never Follow
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I checked mazdatix also, maybe they ran out, I've noticed some things missing off the mazdatrix site lately, some stuff I wanted too like the front lowering kit, ugh what a pita. It's not biggie on the front cover, I already have an SE one, I was just curious to see where else I could get one if I mess this one up modifying it for the S5 omp.
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