Joker1337

As title says. I have a GSL-SE and I'm trying to work out what the costs for a nice new means of motion would be. I need to start setting aside the monies and I'm trying to get a number to save up for in front of me.

I know there are a million threads about this, but I haven't found one that lists costs other than "$5,000+." If there's another breakdown, by all means, post a link.

• Turbo II Short Block:
  In hand
• Turbo II Transmission:
  In hand
• GSL-SE Front Cover:
  In hand
• TII Rebuild Kit:
  $1,000
• TII EDM Seal slots to 3mm:
  $200
• TII Replacement Housing x 1 (I assume 1 will have failed):
  $600
• Balancing rebuild to 9,000rpm:
  $100
• Turbo Heavy Duty Clutch Kit:
  $370
• Garrett GT3076R Turbo:
  $1,200
• Manifold Plates:
  $400
• Turbo Flanges:
  $200
• SS Pipe, Elbows:
  $300
• Megasquirt ECU:
  $300
• Wiring:
  $100
• Fuel Injectors:
  $300
• Fuel Pump:
  $150
• Driveshaft:
  $200
• Ford 8.8 Rear End (Pick and Pull):
  $100
• S&H - 5%:
  $281
• Misc - 5%:
  $281

Estimated Total of $6,182

Am I missing anything vital?

Dan_s_young

iTrader: (1)

Intercooler, intercooler piping, wastegate, blow off valve, fuel lines (maybe surge tank), tuning, exhaust system.

Good idea to have a scatter shield, better brakes, good suspension.

It will ALWAYS cost more than you plan.

To give you an idea, (this is on the extreme side) my 3" exhaust piping cost $250 (stainless steel 3"), racing beat presilencer was around $100, muffler $200, downpipe was $400, fabrication was seven hours tig welding and cost $700. It adds up really fast, but it seems like you have a good start and plan on doing fabrication yourself?

Joker1337

Yeah, planning on doing fab myself. I gotta pick up a MIG and get practicing.

Thanks, totally forgot the intercooler, BOV, wastegate. I'll start trying to price them up. Maybe I need to get a better handle on the pipes too.

Suspension is going on the car this summer, hopefully. Replacing all the bushings and putting respeed coilovers on board.

mikeric

iTrader: (20)

Turbo manifold to mount the turbo on. Gauges to see what the heck is going on. Minimum: Boost, Oil temp, Wideband 02. Don't even play with it without those. I'm not big on a million gauges so I have those three plus a water temp. You also need a FPR with a gauge so you know that your pressure is good (if not, blown motor) $1,000-$2,000.

Also, start planning on wider wheels and tires. Your power will be useless (and downright dangerous) without a way of putting it down and you will be spinning your wheels in third gear. If you are going with a Ford rear end, I'm assuming you are using Ford axles which would have a 114.3x5 bolt pattern, so wheels are already in the works. Don't forget about bearings too. $1,000-$2,500

While you are at it, brakes need to be upgraded. In addition, you need to start thinking about aero as a stock body FB gets scary above 120 mph--stupid at 140mph. Does your car have a manual rack or power rack? I had a power rack that I had looped to run a manual setup. There was too much play in it and it was scary above 100mph, so I went with the Respeed Rack and pinion $1,000-$6,000 depending if you go WB.

As far as fuel pumps go, do not waste your time with a Walbro. I have had two brand new ones straight from Summit fail (but saved my engine due to the gauge on my FPR showing what was going on). I know at least six cars that have lost their engine due to them. Use the 944 turbo Bosh fuel pump. It runs about $100 more, but will not fail. $240

Misc fuel filter and air filter $100, Quality oils and grease $200

That's all I can think of for now. Don't forget the suspension upgrades if you haven't done them already as well as seats and harnesses if you want to race it. $2,000-$4000.

I would also recommend having it professionally dyno tuned. $300-$600

That's all I can think of for now.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

The problem with this build is that you are overbuilding the engine in a sense and underbuilding the engine management and turbo system. I'm not sure how familiar you are with doing custom turbo setups on fuel injected cars (specifically rotaries). I tune turbo FC's and FD's (see https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/how-make-your-untuned-pfc-basemap-safer-idle-better-no-datalogit-needed-841706/ ) and I've done my own build up with a T2 engine: https://www.rx7club.com/build-threads-294/t04r-build-898801/

I'm going to offer you advice based on the budget mentality. Some of the things you've suggested aren't necessarily bad ideas, but they're not really "needed" and will take away financial resources from things that should be higher priority.

The rear iron is known to fail on higher horsepower Series 4 T2 engines. I've never had one fail (even after a lot of knock) but you will hear horror stories on a regular basis. The series 5 irons are tougher and have slightly larger ports.

As far as 3mm vs 2mm apex seals, well that's a big debate. But let's just say that there are a lot of 2mm builds that have made plenty of power for a long time. You may want to look into the 2mm Rotary Aviation 'unbreakable' Super Seals. They are designed to withstand detonation, and I can personally attest to their resilience since mine have survived a lot. The rest of the RA rebuild kit isn't the best for fitment or organization. I'd go with OEM stuff if you can, except maybe the inner coolant seals. The OEM stuff just fits better (oil control rings for example) and is generally more organized (by OEM part number) than an aftermarket rebuild kit.


Find low mileage JDM housings (because there is a good supply of JDM stuff, not b/c it's inherently better) with no major wear or chrome flake. Brand new is ideal but you're on a budget. Balancing the engine at all is a waste of time and money for what you're doing. You will NEVER make power at 9000rpm, or anywhere near it, without a bridgeport and a big big hotside. Power will likely fall off by 7500rpm. You will have to shift at 8000-8500 rpm at most, something that even s4 rotors can handle (I'm doing it right now).

Too small to justify the expense. That's considered bigish on a 4 cylinder but it just won't cut it on a rotary, particularly because of the hot side. You might as well just get a bolt-on s5 BNR hybrid turbo and save time and trouble. Good luck making more than 350rwhp with the 3076 unless you really wind it out. You don't want anything smaller than a 60-1/T04S or GT35 if you are going to spend this kind of money. Take a look at this turbo http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant...egory_Code=TBN . It's basically a GT35 with a T4 hotside, it's very similar to the A spec "GT3574" you will see a lot of FD's running.

Walbro pumps are luck of the draw. Lots of people don't have problems with them, but some people do. The Denso pumps (Supra/Cosmo) work well and so does the Bosch pump that has been mentioned. You can find 1600 cc secondary injectors that will fit in the factory T2 rail. You will probably want an FPR.

The Megasquirt can work, but there is a very limited network of tuners involved that will do Megasquirt and also rotary. There's also a lot of DIY work that you may not be prepared for... I get the sense that you haven't looked into engine management much, you just heard that Megasquirt is good and that it's cheap. I've run a Megasquirt before, and when they say "DIY" engine management they are not kidding. You may want to look into a Haltech. You need to budget at least $1000 for engine management.

[/QUOTE]

Intercooler and associated piping has already been mentioned. You will also need a boost controller if you don't plan on using your standalone. You'll probably want a catch can. You will probably want some kind of ignition system upgrade (I like HKS twin power but it also depends on your engine management). Depending on your intended power and boost level, you may need a knock suppressant (E85 conversion, methanol injection, race fuel).



Since you were willing to drop $1300 on a ball bearing turbo and you wanted to rev out to 9k, I am assuming that you are going for a pretty serious engine build on par with what you would expect out of an FD converted to single turbo. In terms of straight line performance that would be 375-450rwhp on a dynojet, at least deep 12's and 120mph in the 1/4 mile. But on an SE with a Ford live axle that would likely be a 10 second car with 450+rwhp using drag radials.

If your goals are much more modest, you can cut the budget way down and simplify the build. Get a bolt on hybrid s5 turbo, maybe a BNR stage 2 or 3. Adapt FC wiring harnesses to your GSL-SE. You could probably get away with s4 n/a harnesses because they are cheaper to find and aren't that much different from T2. Use an Rtek reprogrammable stock ECU, run 720/720 or 720/1000 injectors with stock FPR and an upgraded fuel pump. That will be good for power in the low to mid 300's which is still plenty fast in a car that light.

Percentage

iTrader: (7)

Bingo. If anything, it's a good start to get an idea of what you're getting yourself into and see how far you want to take the modding and tuning. As people on here have said before: "boost is addictive." So if you decide you want more later down the road, starting with a smaller more manageable swap will give you more of an idea to see what must be done to shoot for larger hp numbers.

That being said, if you know what you're doing, or want to do the research for the 450+hp in your FB, go for it man. But as everyone as already stated, you're looking at spending quite a bit more than 6k.

Ian

arghx

iTrader: (3)

the costs really shoot up when you try to make more than low to mid 300s to wheels. Suddenly you are replacing everything.

mikeric

iTrader: (20)

I just wanted to point out that the BNR stage 5 will run you about $1,000 when all is said and done. Not worth it in my opinion as I still had wastegate issues.

Instead, I bought a used HKS manifold and wastegate on ebay for $300 and I sent my turbo back to Brian at BNR who removed the hotside and put on a T04 hotside to make it a full 60-1 TO4.